Wiper motor Ferrule & Nut

[ianc]

My 2-speed DR3 wiper motor has a very worn thread on its Ferrule, to which the Nut on the end of the operating cable (rack) must clamp to make the wipers work correctly.

On the return run from Toddington Station to Thame on Drive-It Day, I encountered 3 short showers and the wipers were failing to wipe the right side of the screen - somewhat inconvenient!   I found that the Nut had come adrift from the Ferrule, allowing the drive rack to move away from the motor.

I have managed to re-tighten the Nut and have added a couple of cable ties to pull the Nut towards the motor, but I need a proper fix.

Am I correct in thinking that the Ferrule & Nut on ebay as 163502398029 are the replacements parts which I need?

Secondly, if I pull the rack out in order to fit a new Nut, will I be able to slide the rack back without having to gain access to the wheel boxes?  I recall working on wheel boves some 50 years ago, and it is a pig of a job even when one is young.

Incidentally, I sent a PM to Alan Turner (Alan T, the wiper motor expert) about 10 days ago concerning my wiper motor, which is a 2-speed DR3 with reverse to park, as fitted to all of the Works' TR4 Rally cars, and used on some other more expensive cars, such as Jaguars.   If anyone has a phone number for Alan, please would they PM me - but don't publish Alan's number on the Forum for all to see!

Ian Cornish

Whoops!  I ought to have placed this in the General section - but I imagine most members read a number of the sections.

 

Edited May 1, 2023 by ianc
Misplaced!

[Lebro]

I doubt if the nut is particularly worn, more likely the male threaded part of the motor. You could bodge modify it by wrapping some tape around the male thread to tighten it up ?

Bob

[RogerH]

Hi Ian,

 the nut is steel,  the ferrule is Ali.

I would be surprised if  the nut is  damaged and needs changing.  Moss do the ferrule  FERRULE

You will need to undo the wheel box to get the tube out and in.

 

Roger

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

Ian,

I think I have a good spare in the garage if you get stuck.

Yes undo the motor cap, remove the drive link, pull out the rack.   You can then remove and replace the ferrule   You will have to remove both wiper arms to get the rack out.   I find having the the wiper motor loose on its mounts to the body the best way to get the tube nut fitted to the ferrule without cross threading   ( you can jiggle the motor about as required then to get it all aligned.    Do it by fingers only until it has turned on a least 2 turns.   

 

Edited May 1, 2023 by BlueTR3A-5EKT

[ianc]

Peter: as you suggest, I disconnected the motor from its mounting and then was able to screw the nut on by hand before tightening it with a spanner and bolting it onto its mountings.  I'm hoping that this will suffice, but if not, I'll be in touch about your kind offer.

BTW, Rich C-R has given me a number for Alan T.

Ian Cornish

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

9 hours ago, ianc said:

My 2-speed DR3 wiper motor has a very worn thread on its Ferrule, to which the Nut on the end of the operating cable (rack) must clamp to make the wipers work correctly.

On the return run from Toddington Station to Thame on Drive-It Day, I encountered 3 short showers and the wipers were failing to wipe the right side of the screen - somewhat inconvenient!   I found that the Nut had come adrift from the Ferrule, allowing the drive rack to move away from the motor.

I have managed to re-tighten the Nut and have added a couple of cable ties to pull the Nut towards the motor, but I need a proper fix.

Am I correct in thinking that the Ferrule & Nut on ebay as 163502398029 are the replacements parts which I need?

Secondly, if I pull the rack out in order to fit a new Nut, will I be able to slide the rack back without having to gain access to the wheel boxes?  I recall working on wheel boves some 50 years ago, and it is a pig of a job even when one is young.

Incidentally, I sent a PM to Alan Turner (Alan T, the wiper motor expert) about 10 days ago concerning my wiper motor, which is a 2-speed DR3 with reverse to park, as fitted to all of the Works' TR4 Rally cars, and used on some other more expensive cars, such as Jaguars.   If anyone has a phone number for Alan, please would they PM me - but don't publish Alan's number on the Forum for all to see!

Ian Cornish

Whoops!  I ought to have placed this in the General section - but I imagine most members read a number of the sections.

 

Yes that ferrule ‘will do’ your car but you will have to file the side of it the get the lid back on flush.  Not the end of the world.  That ferrule is for 14w motors with a deeper recessed area for the ferrule than your DR3 unit.  So long as it is clamped and cannot move it will be fine.