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tr3a inner track end


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Hello  

Having fitted a new inner track end replacing one that had a loose retaining nut that was impossible to tighten I am faced with the same problem with the stud turning with the nut. It seems that the nut has reached the end of its thread travel but that the tapered section is not being held in the steering eye.Having attempted to press home the track end using a bar I have had no success and wonder if the steering eye  could be damaged. Would appreciate your thoughts and possible alternative ways to sort the problem.

Many thanks

Aldy

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24 minutes ago, Aldy said:

Hello  

Having fitted a new inner track end replacing one that had a loose retaining nut that was impossible to tighten I am faced with the same problem with the stud turning with the nut. It seems that the nut has reached the end of its thread travel but that the tapered section is not being held in the steering eye.Having attempted to press home the track end using a bar I have had no success and wonder if the steering eye  could be damaged. Would appreciate your thoughts and possible alternative ways to sort the problem.

Many thanks

Aldy

Hi

Put a small trolley or bottle jack underneath the new joint. Allow the jack to load (I think you mean the OUTER) track rod end. Then tighten. That should work. 
 

PS Sorry I’ve realised they come from the top down. You still might get a small bottle jack in there otherwise it’s a long lever bar. Good luck!

Kevin

Edited by boxofbits
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Well done using the lever method to force the tre into the taper housing. Easy to lever against the suspension turret or something else nearby.

  Are you using a self locking nut?   If so do not use it to pull the taper pin home.  

Use a plain nut to pull the taper home and when secured remove the plain nut and fit the self locking nut.  

If the nut feels as though it is at the bottom of the thread on the tre taper pin add a couple of washers under the nut.  You can try the plain nut on the tre taper pin before assembly to ensure the thread does not bottom.  Just screw the plain nut on with your fingers to see how far on it will go.

 

Peter W

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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12 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Well done using the lever method to force the tre into the taper housing. Easy to lever against the suspension turret or something else nearby.

  Are you using a self locking nut?   If so do not use it to pull the taper pin home.  

Use a plain nut to pull the taper home and when secured remove the plain nut and fit the self locking nut.  

If the nut feels as though it is at the bottom of the thread on the tre taper pin add a couple of washers under the nut.  You can try the plain nut on the tre taper pin before assembly to ensure the thread does not bottom.  Just screw the plain nut on with your fingers to see how far on it will go.

 

Peter W

+1

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12 hours ago, boxofbits said:

Hi

Put a small trolley or bottle jack underneath the new joint. Allow the jack to load (I think you mean the OUTER) track rod end. Then tighten. That should work. 
 

PS Sorry I’ve realised they come from the top down. You still might get a small bottle jack in there otherwise it’s a long lever bar. Good luck!

Kevin

Hi Kevin.   
if the op s car has original steering with a steering box it will have 4 track rod ends.   Two at the outer end by the suspension and two inner ones attached to the steering relay cross shaft.

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37 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Hi Kevin.   
if the op s car has original steering with a steering box it will have 4 track rod ends.   Two at the outer end by the suspension and two inner ones attached to the steering relay cross shaft.

Yes so very true Peter!

Overall, I think the lever bar method  or in my case I often use a long jack handle to coerce it and put pressure on it from above does the trick. The trolley jack (usually) works if the joint goes in from the bottom.
 

Your idea of a plain nut is also a good option.

Regards
 

Kevin

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I normally gently tap the TRE into the tapered hole to encourage it to grip, then use a plain nut to pull it in, followed by the nylock nut (with washers if required) to fully tighten the joint.

Bob

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