Exhaust Fumes

[Les Pettitt]

Hi Stuart,

I have moved the boot seal so the joint is at the front and taped it over. I have put a rubber bung (grommet) in the two 1/2 inch holes at the bottom of the spare wheel well and two 3/8 grommets to cover the holes made by Prestige when fitting the Bosch pump. (Now in the rear wing).

I had a look at the rear lights and in some places I can see foam and in others I can't so I will get new seals and start again. A stupid question maybe but can you double up on the seals so they are more compressed? As the lights are right above the exhaust this would be an obvious entry point for fumes.

What can be done about the number plate lamps?

Hi Hawk,

An interesting solution which I didn't spot when I looked on Amazon but, as you say, not the prettiest. I am going to order a metre of stainless steel 60mm o/d 57mm i/d tubing from exhaustpartsuk and get the angle grinder out. My existing pipes are 56 -57mm o/d (slightly oval) so hopefully a snug fit. As my pipes currently stop 3 inches short of the bumper I am thinking about adding 5 inches to the length of the tail pipes so they extend beyond the bumper by 2 inches.

Thanks everyone. I'll report back if I find one thing that makes the difference but, as so many seem to have a similar problem, I suspect it is a combination of different causes.

Regards

Les

[stuart]

1 hour ago, Les Pettitt said:

Hi Stuart,

I have moved the boot seal so the joint is at the front and taped it over. I have put a rubber bung (grommet) in the two 1/2 inch holes at the bottom of the spare wheel well and two 3/8 grommets to cover the holes made by Prestige when fitting the Bosch pump. (Now in the rear wing).

I had a look at the rear lights and in some places I can see foam and in others I can't so I will get new seals and start again. A stupid question maybe but can you double up on the seals so they are more compressed? As the lights are right above the exhaust this would be an obvious entry point for fumes.

What can be done about the number plate lamps?

 

Regards

Les

I doubt you would be able to double up on the lamp seals as the studs arent that long plus you do have to be careful when fitting them as there are studs on the rear and the side of the lamps so when tightening them they go in and to the side so you need to go round them like you would tightening a cylinder head, I use non setting windscreen sealer whenever fitting any of those seals, a smear around on the inside and outside face of the seal  is the best way to get a good seal, so just fit a new set, similarly for the number plate lamp seals too a smear inside and out of the seal before fitting the lamp, its a messy job but makes all the difference not only to the ingress of any fumes but also to keep the water out too. (Poor lamp sealing is responsible for the usual rot in the bottom of the back panel on most TR6)

Stuart.

[ntc]

The biggest mistake most make is just whacking the seal down to far you will find that original cars it was clued and set at the correct hight 

[Les Pettitt]

Ok Stuart, Thanks, single lamp seals and non setting windscreen sealer it is.

Am I right in thinking that on my CR car there is no foam seal to the number plate lamps?

Do you suggest I put sealant either side of the plastic plinth (pt no 632043) ?

Thanks again

Les

[stuart]

1 hour ago, Les Pettitt said:

Ok Stuart, Thanks, single lamp seals and non setting windscreen sealer it is.

Am I right in thinking that on my CR car there is no foam seal to the number plate lamps?

Do you suggest I put sealant either side of the plastic plinth (pt no 632043) ?

Thanks again

Les

Yes either side of the plinth but obviously it only needs a careful application or you`ll have it everywhere.

Stuart.

[Les Pettitt]

Thank you Stuart,

I bought some Indasa windscreen sealant a while ago (probably on your recommendation ) so I'll give a thin smear to each side of the plinths.

Regards

Les