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Les Pettitt

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About Les Pettitt

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    Nr Pershore

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  1. Hi All, Panic over. Its amazing what a spot of lunch and a cup of tea does to my thought processes. The answer was to bend the stay bracket that goes to the gearbox housing up slightly so the total depth of the pipe plus bracket was reduced. It then slipped easily behind the exhaust manifold. Sorry to have troubled you. Regards Les
  2. Hi All, When my car was returned from restoration I found that the heater return pipe was not the stainless steel one that had been agreed and was on my bill of materials but an old iron one that had been sprayed silver and was very rusty inside. I have just removed this old pipe which I managed to jiggle out from behind the Phoenix extractor manifold without much difficulty. I just had to remove the radiator stay. However putting in the new stainless steel pipe has me totally baffled. I just can't get it threaded behind the exhaust and it jams on the water pump housing or radiator. Is th
  3. Hi All, During a restoration I had uprated front hubs and BCC four pot calipers fitted. On return of the car I was very disappointed with the brakes as they felt no better (and probably a bit worse) than with the standard calipers which I had always found to be pretty good. When I removed the nearside front wheel I could immediately see that my new disc was only being partially swept by the pads (see below) This was traced to a bent caliper mounting plate (also below). I had never noticed any braking problems in the previous 40 years so perhaps this mounting plate did
  4. Hi Paul, I got the banjos and link pipe pump to filter with none return valve from Malcolm Jones at Prestige now TRTrader. I got a bespoke filter to PRV pipe made up by Revington to my exact dimensions. I have been very pleased with both. Regards Les
  5. Hi All, I have three clutch slave cylinders, the Lockheed original fitted to my car in 1973, a repro one and a refurbished Lockheed which is currently fitted to the car. The bleed nipples on all three display side to side play if they are undone by a quarter turn. Martins idea of PTFE tape is very interesting, I wonder why I haven't come across it before. It would certainly take out the play and stop fluid running down the bleed nipple thread which was my problem on Wednesday. Before going this route, I compared all three nipples that I have (see below). The left hand one is the orig
  6. Hi All, In my simple minded way I was thinking that the nipple was only open while my wife was depressing the clutch pedal, so air shouldn't get in while fluid was being forced out. I'm sure Neil, Stuart and Keith are right and it was a false assumption. It was leaking quite a bit (I thought at first the slave cylinder seal had failed) so I will change the nipple for the 1973 original. If that doesn't work I'll go to the supplier Stuart kindly suggested. Then with Tim's pipe into a modified master cylinder cap it should be all systems go. Thank you forum for being so patien
  7. Hi Tim, Thanks. I've used silicon for the past 20 years or so. I have several plastic master cylinder caps so I think I will drill one to take the plastic pipe so it doesn't fall out of the master cylinder. Or do just use a peg? Mick, I put a tape measure against the top of the clutch pedal while my wife held it to the floor. She then released the pedal gently and the tape was pushed in 30mm. For the slave cylinder I hooked a tape to the end of push rod and got her to press the clutch pedal while I held the tape still. Regards Les
  8. Hi Stuart, The pedal was drilled out to 3/8 during restoration and I have drilled the master cylinder push rod to match and new 3/8 clevis. There is no play at all there. New slave cylinder push rod and clevis with no detectable play. The bleed nipple came with new slave cylinder but I do appear to get leakage of fluid from the nipple thread even when the nipple is only turned 90 degrees so a point for me to look at further. I have the bleed nipple from my original 1973 Lockheed slave cylinder so I could try that in my newly refurbished Lockheed slave. I do not know the origin of the blee
  9. Hi Paul, Thanks, I think that is good advice. I will try again with my brother in law over the weekend as I am not too sure about how good my wife is at holding her foot flat to the floor. My master cylinder push rod is moving 30mm which, allowing for the 2mm free play, gives 28mm of effective movement which should translate into 14mm at the slave cylinder push rod. I can't think of anything else to do to be honest. Regards Les
  10. Thanks everyone. Good to know there should be bit of free play. Thanks Stuart, it makes perfect sense not having any pressure held in the line. I have now fitted my new Girling master cylinder which only had a single seal. In retrospect, maybe I should have asked the question about free play on the TRW before assuming it was faulty and buying the Girling. I do like the idea of the double seal on the TRW. I have now replaced the master cylinder with new Girling, the slave cylinder with new Lockheed (mounted the correct way up), new flexible pipe and new 82mm master cylinder push rod but I
  11. Hi All, I can move my TRW clutch master cylinder push rod in by 2mm before it contacts the piston. As this translates to maybe 10 or 12mm free play at the pedal I thought it must be a fault. The clutch pedal spring holds the m/c push rod away from the piston so having a different length or adjustable push rod will make no difference at all. I would have expected to push in the piston slightly to insert the circlip but this is not the case. There is a gap between the washer and the circlip. (see photos) I have received a new Girling master cylinder and push rod this morning and i
  12. Hi All, Sorry to resurrect this, but I may still have a problem. I have fitted my new 82mm master cylinder push rod but I can push it back 2mm before it connects with the piston. It is as though the piston is not coming far enough down the bore of the cylinder to touch the push rod. Can someone please confirm whether or not there should be this play (logic tells me there shouldn't). Surely the push rod should always be held tightly against the piston. I have now removed the M/C and the piston taps out easily on the bench. The problem is that the spring and piston assem
  13. Hi All, The plot thickens. I ordered a 122296 from Rimmers and this arrived today. 82mm length. This is despite them telling me Hello Sir The Part Measures 78mm. Kind Regards Rimmer Bros I took a punt that they can't measure based on Andy's post. Nice chunky bit of kit though. Regards Les
  14. Hi All, Yes, all my fault. I know Stuart and others mentioned rogue master cylinder push rods but I was fixated on it being a slave cylinder problem. Stupid I know but a lesson learnt. Sorry for prolonging the topic. Do we still have a PQI that looks at such things? My master cylinder looks very clean but with the circlip removed and pushing the piston back and forth it doesn't want to come out. When the piston is pushed back and then released it springs back with some force but there is a metallic sound as if it is hitting a lip, which isn't case. I am not going to mess about i
  15. Hi Andy, That is brilliant thank you, I'll get one from Rimmers. In hindsight, I tackled this problem from completely the wrong direction. I should have measured the throw of the master cylinder push rod first. With my 0.7" master cylinder and 1" slave giving a throw ratio between master / slave of approx 2:1, I would then have realised I would need at least 30mm throw at the master cylinder so my 25mm throw at the master would never give me enough throw at the slave cylinder whatever I did to it. Moving from a 75mm master push rod to an 82mm one gives me an extra 7mm which when ad
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