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Les Pettitt

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About Les Pettitt

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    Nr Pershore

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  1. Hi All, I can move my TRW clutch master cylinder push rod in by 2mm before it contacts the piston. As this translates to maybe 10 or 12mm free play at the pedal I thought it must be a fault. The clutch pedal spring holds the m/c push rod away from the piston so having a different length or adjustable push rod will make no difference at all. I would have expected to push in the piston slightly to insert the circlip but this is not the case. There is a gap between the washer and the circlip. (see photos) I have received a new Girling master cylinder and push rod this morning and i
  2. Hi All, Sorry to resurrect this, but I may still have a problem. I have fitted my new 82mm master cylinder push rod but I can push it back 2mm before it connects with the piston. It is as though the piston is not coming far enough down the bore of the cylinder to touch the push rod. Can someone please confirm whether or not there should be this play (logic tells me there shouldn't). Surely the push rod should always be held tightly against the piston. I have now removed the M/C and the piston taps out easily on the bench. The problem is that the spring and piston assem
  3. Hi All, The plot thickens. I ordered a 122296 from Rimmers and this arrived today. 82mm length. This is despite them telling me Hello Sir The Part Measures 78mm. Kind Regards Rimmer Bros I took a punt that they can't measure based on Andy's post. Nice chunky bit of kit though. Regards Les
  4. Hi All, Yes, all my fault. I know Stuart and others mentioned rogue master cylinder push rods but I was fixated on it being a slave cylinder problem. Stupid I know but a lesson learnt. Sorry for prolonging the topic. Do we still have a PQI that looks at such things? My master cylinder looks very clean but with the circlip removed and pushing the piston back and forth it doesn't want to come out. When the piston is pushed back and then released it springs back with some force but there is a metallic sound as if it is hitting a lip, which isn't case. I am not going to mess about i
  5. Hi Andy, That is brilliant thank you, I'll get one from Rimmers. In hindsight, I tackled this problem from completely the wrong direction. I should have measured the throw of the master cylinder push rod first. With my 0.7" master cylinder and 1" slave giving a throw ratio between master / slave of approx 2:1, I would then have realised I would need at least 30mm throw at the master cylinder so my 25mm throw at the master would never give me enough throw at the slave cylinder whatever I did to it. Moving from a 75mm master push rod to an 82mm one gives me an extra 7mm which when ad
  6. Hi Red6 Many thanks for that advice, that is the first time I have ever seen it mentioned. Hi Martin, I know Moss don't stock it but it appears Rimmers now do. I have asked them for the length of their 122296. I hadn't thought of TR Enterprises, I'll contact them. Many thanks Les
  7. Hi All, Cracked it. When I looked again I found the clutch pedal was lower than the brake pedal. As soon as I removed the clevis pin the pedal shot forward. That is where the extra movement will come. Removed the push rod and it is just 75mm long. When it is this short it restricts how far the pedal can come up and thus the overall movement. I am convinced a longer push rod will give me all the throw I need. So, so pleased with this result. Thank you to all of you. Looks like Martin and I had very similar measurements. Last two questions. Where can I get the correct length
  8. Hi All, Following on from Mick's request I quickly measured the throw of my master cylinder push rod which is about 25mm. As the bore of the master cylinder is 0.7inch and that of the slave cylinder 1 inch and given that area is a squared relationship, the cross section area of the master cylinder is .49 that of the slave cylinder. Therefore the master cylinder push rod must move roughly twice as far as the slave cylinder push rod if there are no other losses. To get a movement of 16mm at the slave cylinder the master cylinder push rod would have to move 32mm which is not possib
  9. Hi All, No side to side play at all in the pedal but I can push the pedal down by hand around 50mm before I meet any meaningful resistance. As I had the wrong length push rod in my slave cylinder, I wouldn't be surprised if I had an incorrect one in the master cylinder. I will remove and strip the master cylinder tomorrow afternoon and report back. In the meantime, could someone please tell the correct length for the master cylinder push rod. What odds for a broken spring? or a master cylinder full of gunge like the slave cylinder? Thank you again for your continued help. I have
  10. Hi Paul, I was so disappointed last night, I left the clutch pedal jammed down overnight in case it made a difference - it didn't. I must say the clutch now feels lighter and smoother than it did before I changed the slave cylinder just not quite as much throw as I would like. I am really puzzled why the master cylinder push rod is not in constant contact with the master cylinder piston. If I could eliminate that 3mm of free play I think it would help at the slave cylinder end. All the clevis pins are a really nice tight fit so this is the only play I can detect in the whole setup. Has a
  11. Hi All, New slave cylinder is in, the correct way up, bled thoroughly and the push rod is in the middle hole but I still only get 10mm movement. I'm glad I changed the slave cylinder as, on inspection, the old one was full of muck (see below). Maybe I could have cleaned it, but happy to have a new one with the correct length push rod. I now think the problem may lie in the master cylinder which is a new TRW one fitted during a restoration. I can push the master cylinder push rod back 3mm before it connects to the piston in the master cylinder. Anyone come across this before? Is the
  12. Hi Mick, You read my thoughts exactly. Whatever the length of the pushrod it can only move by the displacement of the piston. Not sure now why they market an adjustable one. I am happy to be going back to standard. My Lockheed 993640 has just arrived in the post from Rich so I will hopefully fit it on Thursday and report back. Really excited at the prospect of having a pleasant car to drive again. I know clutches have been covered many times before on the forum so I am very grateful for everyone's patience with me. Regards Les
  13. Hi Jurgensbrother, That doesn't surpise me as I eventually managed to get back some parts after a lot of pestering but some were clearly not mine and from a lhd car. Hi Keith, I have a refurbished Lockheed 993640 on its way to me (thanks Rich). I have no faith in the slave cylinder currently fitted but will examine it and compare it the Lockheed one. I will also use the correct pushrod which I have had on the shelf for 30 years or more and is still in its British Leyland bag. With the correct slave cylinder and correct push rod I think I have a fighting chance of the
  14. Hi Tim, I must admit I used the top hole trick when my taper pin broke in 1978 and 1980. Worked for a few miles. I am waiting for a restored Lockheed slave cyclinder (thank you Rich) and will then use my new standard length push rod and see how it goes. My clutch fork lever is vertical and I am supposed to have both taper pin and roll pin fitted, so hopefully all will work ok. Regards Les
  15. Hi John, I am limited to what I can test at the moment as the old piston is jammed. The clutch pedal appears to be in the correct position and the clevis pin on the master cylinder seems a good fit. I'll report back when I have the new slave cylinder. Thanks for all your suggestions Regards Les
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