Tim T Posted March 21, 2021 Report Share Posted March 21, 2021 I have a reconditioned original water pump on my car. Reconditioned by EP Services. There is a small leak when the engine gets up to temperature which appears to be coming from the lower mounting stud just below the tell-tale slot in the pump. The slot seems to be dry. Today I removed the pump and fitted a new gasket between pump and housing. Refitted everything and still have the same leak. I have read that some of these studs should not be fitted ‘dry’, and am not sure what is meant by that! Could somebody please enlighten me. Tomorrow I plan to remove it all again including the housing and hope! Unless some kind person can suggest another course of action. Many thanks Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John L Posted March 21, 2021 Report Share Posted March 21, 2021 I fitted a copper washer on that bolt. That bolt is open to the water jacket, so water can creep up the threads and out under the spring washer. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim T Posted March 21, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2021 Well, that sounds a simple first thing to try. Are they not all open to the water jacket then? Thanks Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John L Posted March 21, 2021 Report Share Posted March 21, 2021 I think the bottom one is the only one. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ntc Posted March 21, 2021 Report Share Posted March 21, 2021 You should always smear the bolt with sealant Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim T Posted March 21, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2021 1 hour ago, ntc said: You should always smear the bolt with sealant Something like RTV Silicon gasket? Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ntc Posted March 21, 2021 Report Share Posted March 21, 2021 Tim No use hylomar Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim T Posted March 22, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2021 I've been thinking more! The stud that we are talking about has not been removed for over 40 years, and with that in mind I have 3 questions: 1) In order to seal it I will need to remove it and is there a risk of shearing it? 2) If it resists removal does that not mean that it is 'rusted' in and therefore made a seal? 3) Would using a copper washer as John suggested be a safer option to try first, and if so would a fibre washer possibly do the same job with a nyloc nut? Many thanks, Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted March 22, 2021 Report Share Posted March 22, 2021 1) Not necessarily, & Yes 2) Could well be 3) Worth trying, fibre - yes, but put a plain washer between it & the nut or it might just tear up as you tighten the nut fully Also worth smearing sealant onto the stud thread before adding washers, & coat washer with it too. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John L Posted March 22, 2021 Report Share Posted March 22, 2021 Tim I missunderstood your original question, The bolt I put just a copper washer, is the one that holds the water manifold to the head, the bolt on the lower left looking at the front of the engine. I think all the water pump studs are blind into the housing behind. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim T Posted March 22, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2021 3 hours ago, John L said: Tim I missunderstood your original question, The bolt I put just a copper washer, is the one that holds the water manifold to the head, the bolt on the lower left looking at the front of the engine. I think all the water pump studs are blind into the housing behind. John You are correct John. Took it all off today and sealed the offending lower central stud with Hylomar Blue which as you say is blind. Will now fit the pump onto the studs using Hylomar with copper washers and nylocs also fitted new gaskets. Can’t do more than that! Thanks to all for advice. Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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