TimR6 Posted July 6, 2006 Report Share Posted July 6, 2006 Ive got a bit of spare cash burning a hole in my pocket and am thinking about improving my TR6 PI, its pretty much bog standard and in great condition but i d like to improve it and would be interested to hear from anybody on what they think is the best improvement they have carried out on their 6 with the reasons why. Currently thinking of brakes, exhaust and cooling in no particular order. Also i have the 'how to improve TR6' book so am aware of the topics but i just cant decide what to do and in what order any suggestions? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
robgeev Posted July 6, 2006 Report Share Posted July 6, 2006 Not on your list, but Webbers!! Rob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
marvmul Posted July 6, 2006 Report Share Posted July 6, 2006 Ive got a bit of spare cash burning a hole in my pocket and am thinking about improving my TR6 PI, its pretty much bog standard and in great condition but i d like to improve it and would be interested to hear from anybody on what they think is the best improvement they have carried out on their 6 with the reasons why. Currently thinking of brakes, exhaust and cooling in no particular order. Also i have the 'how to improve TR6' book so am aware of the topics but i just cant decide what to do and in what order any suggestions? -Above all, the fitting of a stage III cylinderhead. -At the time of restoring my TR6, in 1992, I had the body metallised (Zinc sprayed onto the body, no imersion) : it's still rust free, except on a couple of small places because of some welding afterwards -When I'll find the time once : fitting a full roll cage to make it safer and to make it more fun to drive. It's more fun because of the improved rigidity of chassis and body and because of the better performing suspension when the car is stiffer. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest nco Posted July 6, 2006 Report Share Posted July 6, 2006 I'd recommend ally steering rack mounts and rear swing arm bushes (though getting the old ones out isnt easy) - preferably nylatron. I rate the goodparts.com kit! That as a first step. Fit new uprated bushes in the steering column (horrible job!) Good tele shocks (koni!) and new brake parts (pads and a good clean of all moving parts) 2nd. A good tune - check the butterfly valves are reaching 90 degress and opening together - loads of faffing with cables and adjusters (Try mountain bike cables for the throttle - from experience the outer cable guide doesnt squash up, its also ptfe lined so nice and smooth +cheap!!) The results are wroth it - will purr like a kitten when set up properly and be smooth and responsive under acceleration. New points and plugs and timing setup 10btdc finish it off. After that new driveshafts, hubs and ujs to stop all the clunks! Engine would be last on my list - its got loads of grunt the trouble is making sure it doesnt break the rest of the car! Once the suspension, steering and brakes are top notch then a ported head, exhaust manifiold and possibly mild cam improvment, Most cars that are 30+ years old and standard spec have many perished parts in the suspension and steering. Lots of labour to get right but well worth it! The car feels like a new car once done. (I'm about half way down the list! TRs are a bit of a money sponge!!) Love hate relationship etc! Neil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Laurie Posted July 6, 2006 Report Share Posted July 6, 2006 Hi Tim Cash burning a hole, eh? Top tip.... send it to me . I need to do most of Neils suggestions as well. Happy days Laurie Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jean Posted July 6, 2006 Report Share Posted July 6, 2006 IMHO, it's best to start with the suspension, including rear tele shocks. If I look back I must admit that before I did this my car drove like a pram If the cash is capable to burn a VERY BIG HOLE go to EFI and forget about Lucas troubles in any weather condition and..... an o/d if you don't have one. Jean Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Crawley Posted July 6, 2006 Report Share Posted July 6, 2006 Tim It really depends on what you personally want from the car. If you’ve got a working & reliable PI system, I don’t see any point in junking it for Webbers on a road car (as good as they are!) unless you can’t resist the sound they make; they won’t offer you more useable power, are less tractable than PI, use more fuel & it’s a pretty frivolous way of parting with nearly a grand! The standard brakes are also very good if the system is in good condition so unless you’re going racing, you don’t need to go for an expensive 4 (or more) pot solution – tip; go to an auto jumble & get some original Ferodo (asbestos) pads; enlightenment means we now know they are hazardous but they certainly work as intended & are a lot cheaper than the modern alternatives. The cooling system is also perfectly adequate for a road car as long as the system is not clogged; I did run a Kenlow fan years ago but did not refit it after a total restoration so am now running on my original radiator & standard fan without any problems on a stage 2 tune & Phoenix manifold. Assuming the car is basically in good condition (if it ain’t then first make it so), I think you’re pointing your wallet in the wrong direction. My suggestions, in order, are: 1. Rear telescopic conversion (the latest 3 point fixing) & gas shocks to make it handle. 2. New suspension bushes & solid rack mounts but be careful about upgrading to poly bushes all round on the suspension as they can make the car very harsh if you get it wrong - read the back posts! 3. Electronic ignition. 4. If it’s a CR, fit a decent cam & upgrade the dizzy & M/U to suit. 5. Unleaded stage 2 head - personally wouldn’t go any further as you have to start changing other stuff. 6. Phoenix extractor manifold Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnC Posted July 8, 2006 Report Share Posted July 8, 2006 <snip>2. New suspension bushes & solid rack mounts but be careful about upgrading to poly bushes all round on the suspension as they can make the car very harsh if you get it wrong - read the back posts! 3. Electronic ignition. 4. If it’s a CR, fit a decent cam & upgrade the dizzy & M/U to suit. 5. Unleaded stage 2 head - personally wouldn’t go any further as you have to start changing other stuff. 6. Phoenix extractor manifold Hi Richard, What kind of bushes would you recommend? After finishing my current stage of tinkering with the engine, I plan to refurbish the suspension. Don't really want a harsh ride, just an 'as new' feel... By 'electronic ignition', do you mean a contactless breaker (e.g. Pertronix) or a full mappable electronic ignition package? Phoenix extractor - the 6:3:1? Thanks, John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Crawley Posted July 8, 2006 Report Share Posted July 8, 2006 John I’ve just kept to standard rubber with Spax & rear telescopic conversion. This has improved the ride & handling no end, firm but not harsh. The problem is that rubber bushes deteriorate after a couple of years so you need to keep then in good condition; next time around I may go to a mixture of rubber & road Polybush, mainly on the front but will decide as & when it becomes necessary. As I said, have read through the archive before you decide. Again, there are several views as to which unit is the best in the archive. I run a Lumenition Optronic system as I was advised by someone who should know that this was the one to go for as it’s a more reliable unit; so far no problems. The Phoenix 6 3 1 is the one I have but split back again into a 2 pipe standard rear system. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tr6driver Posted July 8, 2006 Report Share Posted July 8, 2006 TimIt really depends on what you personally want from the car. If you’ve got a working & reliable PI system, I don’t see any point in junking it for Webbers on a road car (as good as they are!) unless you can’t resist the sound they make; they won’t offer you more useable power, are less tractable than PI, use more fuel & it’s a pretty frivolous way of parting with nearly a grand! The standard brakes are also very good if the system is in good condition so unless you’re going racing, you don’t need to go for an expensive 4 (or more) pot solution – tip; go to an auto jumble & get some original Ferodo (asbestos) pads; enlightenment means we now know they are hazardous but they certainly work as intended & are a lot cheaper than the modern alternatives. The cooling system is also perfectly adequate for a road car as long as the system is not clogged; I did run a Kenlow fan years ago but did not refit it after a total restoration so am now running on my original radiator & standard fan without any problems on a stage 2 tune & Phoenix manifold. Assuming the car is basically in good condition (if it ain’t then first make it so), I think you’re pointing your wallet in the wrong direction. My suggestions, in order, are: 1. Rear telescopic conversion (the latest 3 point fixing) & gas shocks to make it handle. 2. New suspension bushes & solid rack mounts but be careful about upgrading to poly bushes all round on the suspension as they can make the car very harsh if you get it wrong - read the back posts! 3. Electronic ignition. 4. If it’s a CR, fit a decent cam & upgrade the dizzy & M/U to suit. 5. Unleaded stage 2 head - personally wouldn’t go any further as you have to start changing other stuff. 6. Phoenix extractor manifold Hello. If you are going to to change out your PI injection to EFI the cheapest way is to get a donor system. I have a CR engine converted to Bosch L / Jetronic in my TR6 , the system came from an Opel/Vauxhall Senator 2,5.This EFI vorks very nice on the CR engine.Maybe later i will go for a Megasquirt EFI upgrade. I had the choice of a total overhaul of the original PI system or try EFI I havent regret the EFI conversion. Oystein Quote Link to post Share on other sites
triumph4ever Posted July 8, 2006 Report Share Posted July 8, 2006 Hello marvmul it's still rust free, except on a couple of small places because of some welding afterwards -->> So this car is definately NOT rust free!! It remembers me what I've seen in some add's Or in other words: my car is in excellent condition, exept motors, chassis, frame, paint etc !! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
marvmul Posted July 8, 2006 Report Share Posted July 8, 2006 Hello marvmul it's still rust free, except on a couple of small places because of some welding afterwards -->> So this car is definately NOT rust free!! It remembers me what I've seen in some add's Or in other words: my car is in excellent condition, exept motors, chassis, frame, paint etc !! So what? I like my TR6 as it is and I will enjoy it for many years to come if God pleases. I'm not perfect neither, you are? Besides, it IS excellent and definitely about rust free. The engine is excellent too, don't know about the motors; the car needs no frame when it has got already a chassis. It will not appear in ad's. I suppose I was not clear enough for you : the zinc was sprayed on after the welding work was done, except for a couple of pinholes which I discovered AFTER the zinc treatment. I welded these up afterwards, of course the zinc layer was disturbed and some rust is developing there. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pink_tr6 Posted July 11, 2006 Report Share Posted July 11, 2006 would be interested to hear from anybody on what they think is the best improvement they have carried out on their 6 with the reasons why. A respray: it needed a change of colour and what can I say, it's no longer bog standard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
heat391 Posted July 19, 2006 Report Share Posted July 19, 2006 Hello. If you are going to to change out your PI injection to EFI the cheapest way is to get a donor system. I have a CR engine converted to Bosch L / Jetronic in my TR6 , the system came from an Opel/Vauxhall Senator 2,5.This EFI vorks very nice on the CR engine.Maybe later i will go for a Megasquirt EFI upgrade. I had the choice of a total overhaul of the original PI system or try EFI I havent regret the EFI conversion. Oystein Very curious here in the States.....what kind of intake manifold to you use for the EFI. I have a set of the PI manifolds, and was going to try to convert them to use modern injectors... When I have the time to tackle this project....ha! Thanks, Bill Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Moltu Posted July 21, 2006 Report Share Posted July 21, 2006 Tarox discs - got rid of the squealing brakes. Bliss. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fremont Posted July 21, 2006 Report Share Posted July 21, 2006 (edited) and..... an o/d if you don't have one. Far and away the biggest improvement I made to the original standard example ( A-type ). Next was Surrey Top, then engine mods with triple Webers, then leather seats. Each of the 1st three above transformed the car Edited July 21, 2006 by Tom Fremont Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EricTR6 Posted July 25, 2006 Report Share Posted July 25, 2006 Relatively cheap for a great result; Rear shock conversion Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tr6driver Posted July 28, 2006 Report Share Posted July 28, 2006 Very curious here in the States.....what kind of intake manifold to you use for the EFI. I have a set of the PI manifolds, and was going to try to convert them to use modern injectors... When I have the time to tackle this project....ha! Thanks, Bill Hello. I used the standard intake manifoil for the CR engine.I had to get a machine shop to drill 0,5 mm bigger holes for the injectors and a groove for an O-ring.Also I had to make new clamps to lock the injectors to the manifoil. If I want to go back for standard PI injectors I only have to change for bigger O - rings. Take a look in Roger Williams book how to improve TR 5,250 & 6 , there it is described. Oystein Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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