stuart Posted March 18, 2021 Report Share Posted March 18, 2021 21 minutes ago, Ian Vincent said: Brian, as Stuart points out, that would be the answer. Would it be a major task to modify your cover? Rgds Ian Dont think you could stretch it that far, probably easier to cut it across the bulge and let a piece in. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Brian Eldred Posted March 18, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2021 31 minutes ago, qkingston said: Hi Brian, From your pictures, the modification of the mounting plate to accommodate the solenoid looks v similar to mine; it concerns me slightly that a fair amount of material has to be removed from the LHS of the bracket; not ideal? Rgds David Hi David, I didn't remove a lot, should be OK. Of course if Moss modified the bracket so it recessed less into the chassis by 8mm, it would both increase clearance on the solenoid and obviate the need for spacers. Brian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Brian Eldred Posted March 18, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2021 25 minutes ago, stuart said: Dont think you could stretch it that far, probably easier to cut it across the bulge and let a piece in. Stuart. It looks like I have the choice of butchering my existing cover or getting a later replacement which would probably have to be fibreglass. Rimmers have a fibreglass TR4-5 one in their sale which they say is also a replacement for all the earlier steel versions. It would be a shame to chop mine as it's in really good nick, painted body colour inside and out. Don't know if there's a demand for original covers? Decisions... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted March 18, 2021 Report Share Posted March 18, 2021 Picking up on Stuart's suggestion, I can't see it being a major task to let a piece in and that has to be better than a fibreglass replacement. I'd be pretty confident of doing a tidy job on it - but then I did have a lot of practice fabricating a new outer rear 3/4 panel. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Brian Eldred Posted March 18, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2021 Ian/Stuart, yes I think that's the way to go. My welding skills are not great but at least it won't be visible. Out with the hacksaw tomorrow... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
david ferry Posted March 18, 2021 Report Share Posted March 18, 2021 Brian, If it helps, I have a number of original steel sidescreen tunnels. I’d suspect largely later ones. The fibreglass later ones won’t be terribly easy to fit as they attach differently to the bulkhead. If you’d like to buy a steel one, let me know. Shipping is likely to be a bit difficult due to size, but I’m sure we could sort something out, or you could collect...... David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted March 18, 2021 Report Share Posted March 18, 2021 Later fibreglass ones wont fit a sidescreen car, Rimmers catalogue is wrong. It wouldnt be that difficult to do a cut and shut I would have thought. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted March 18, 2021 Report Share Posted March 18, 2021 1 hour ago, Brian Eldred said: Ian/Stuart, yes I think that's the way to go. My welding skills are not great but at least it won't be visible. Out with the hacksaw tomorrow... As I have said many times, and it certainly applies on my car, there is no such thing as a bad (as in unsightly) weld since the invention of the angel grinder. Let's face it, it's not a structural member. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted March 18, 2021 Report Share Posted March 18, 2021 I also have a saloon box in my '3, & am using the original 1955 gearbox cover with no modifications ? Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Brian Eldred Posted March 18, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2021 23 minutes ago, Lebro said: I also have a saloon box in my '3, & am using the original 1955 gearbox cover with no modifications ? Bob. Hmm, not sure how? Mine hits the starter bulge with the flange an inch off the floor. Revington list 3 different types for the 2-3A (second hand only). They will supply one in aluminium for £786.01 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted March 18, 2021 Report Share Posted March 18, 2021 One option could be to cut the end of the bulge off the gearbox casing, I think this was done in the past to get round the problem. (not by me though) Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted March 18, 2021 Report Share Posted March 18, 2021 I’d still go with modifying the cover. I’d stick some plasticine on the inside and then push the cover down till it hits the bulge of the bell housing, so that I knew exactly where the problems is. Then I’d make a T shaped cut and bend up the wings that creates until the cover will bolt down. If push came to shove you could then find someone to weld it up for you if you weren’t confident of doing it yourself. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Brian Eldred Posted March 27, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2021 Sorted at last - I made some cuts and bends until it fitted, fabricated some patches and stuck them on with JB Weld to save me getting annoyed with myself trying to weld with my ancient MIG welder. The cover is now back on the car. David thanks for the offer anyway! I spoke to a helpful chap called Adam at Moss tech dept. in January about the problems with the bracket kit and I'm going to email him with my findings. Brian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted March 27, 2021 Report Share Posted March 27, 2021 That’s got to be a better solution than buying a replacement cover. Well done. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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