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Brian Eldred

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About Brian Eldred

  • Birthday March 16

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  • Cars Owned:
    TR4A 1966
    TR2 1955

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  1. I did this yesterday: I started by fitting the snorkel with some sealant, but couldn't get it all the way in the hole. Then I thought about the possibility of needing to remove it in the future for cleaning. So I pulled it out again (with some difficulty), sanded the paint off the end and refitted it with some copper grease. There's a bracket between the snorkel and the rearmost sump bolt, swapped for a longer one and a spacer, that holds it in place. Refitted fuel pump, job done. Brian and yes Bob 2+ beers were had last night
  2. Success! (and much relief!) I cut a slot in the plug with my Dremel using a flexi-drive and a cutting disc. Then one tap with a pry bar and it rotated, to be pulled out with pliers. Easy really So my new set of stubby drills didn't get used. No doubt they will one day... Brian
  3. Good idea Bob! These ones only go to 5mm but there are others on eBay and elsewhere. I have a Ryobi cordless right angled drill so will have to check max drill length that would work.
  4. Thanks for the advice all. I think the plug metal is too thick to split with a chisel, and there's no room to swing a hammer! I'll try cutting a slit with a Dremmel first, if that doesn't work drill at an angle. I'm determined now to get the thing out using whatever implements of destruction necessary. I might just drop the sump to be safe. I'm going to put this off til the snow has gone though...my unheated garage is a bit arctic brass monkeys. Brian
  5. Mick, is this vented void open at the bottom? i.e. if I take the sump off and drill the plug, will any swarf drop out? Alternatively, I'm wondering how deep the hole is: since the plug on mime is flush with the outside of the casting, swarf may stay in the hole and I could clean it out without having to drop the sump. Bit of a risk though? I'm not brilliant at welding, particularly in the depths of the engine bay. Brian
  6. Ian, problem is getting a drill in square. I have a right angled drill but even with a 3.5 mm bit it was very tight and had to go in at an angle I've found quite a few more posts on the subject - one mentioned screwing in a one inch bolt, but on mine the plug flange is on the inside so not possible. Someone else mention a core pug extractor, but I can't find such a thing for sale. I'm reluctant to start opening up the hole to get a chisel or screwdriver in, because a) it might still not come out, and then I'm jiggered and b) the risk of getting swarf in the sump, though I guess I cou
  7. Peter, if you look at the picture of the plug it's flush with the block: it looks to have been inserted the wrong way round, so can't access the lip. Also it seems to be much heavier steel than a normal core plug so I don't think a Dremmel would get very far.
  8. Sorry to resurrect this post, but I've finally got around to fitting the snorkel. Or I will do when I can get the blanking plug out. I've removed the fuel pump to gain access from above. I found a tip from Roger where he drilled a hole in the plug and used a wood screw to pull it out. I've tried this but a 65mm screw went all the way in without hitting anything. I then tried a short screw with a largish head and a pry bar behind it, but it wouldn't budge even after hitting the bar with a club hammer (though not much room down there!) The plug seems to be made of fairly heavy gauge steel.
  9. I don't understand why they should be different. The clutch arm is the same, so wouldn't the centre point of the cylinder be in the same place? Or am I missing something
  10. I've re-fitted the cylinder on the engine side of the mounting plate and it seems to work, though the push rod is adjusted to it's maximum plus a bit - it could do with being a bit longer - and is not quite in line with the cylinder. According to Revington the TR6 (non-adjustable) pushrod is 6'' to the centre of the clevis pin hole. Mine is extended a good bit longer than that. I've only tested the clutch as far as turning the gearbox flange with it in gear - it seems to disengage OK, but the pedal is quite heavy. I'll try running it without the propshaft on in due course. Incidental
  11. Stuart, by 'on the front' do you mean the gearbox side, like mine is currently mounted? That to me is the back My TR6 (Lockheed) cylinder looks a similar shape to the Girling one, so I would think it should mount engine side. Looking at the images of the plates on the Moss website, I've got the Girling type. Not sure what the difference is? So a right mish mash. I can't find any reference anywhere to the length of the pushrod - Moss say 'cut to length'! I guess I will have to suck it and see... Brian
  12. Having just fitted a recon J-type overdrive gearbox to my TR2, I'm re-connecting the clutch. I was a bit puzzled about the slave cylinder, but after some research I discovered that what I have is a TR5/6 cylinder, which apparently is Lockheed 1'' bore as opposed to 1 1/8'' for the correct TR2/3 Lockheed type. It seems these were used as an alternative when the originals weren't available. A couple of questions: From the picture, am I right in saying that it's mounted on the wrong side of the bracket, i.e. it should be on the engine side, the same as the Girling cylinders? How
  13. I've bought a NOS angle drive and a 69'' (I think) cable, but haven't tried fitting them yet.
  14. By the way I've not been able to source an overdrive switch, the ovoid type part no 112474. If anyone has a spare they can sell me, please let me know!
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