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About Brian Eldred

- Birthday March 16
Profile Information
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Location
Wetherby
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Cars Owned:
TR4A 1966
TR2 1955
Recent Profile Visitors
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TR2 snorkel breather - it doesn't have one??
Brian Eldred replied to Brian Eldred's topic in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
I did this yesterday: I started by fitting the snorkel with some sealant, but couldn't get it all the way in the hole. Then I thought about the possibility of needing to remove it in the future for cleaning. So I pulled it out again (with some difficulty), sanded the paint off the end and refitted it with some copper grease. There's a bracket between the snorkel and the rearmost sump bolt, swapped for a longer one and a spacer, that holds it in place. Refitted fuel pump, job done. Brian and yes Bob 2+ beers were had last night -
TR2 snorkel breather - it doesn't have one??
Brian Eldred replied to Brian Eldred's topic in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Success! (and much relief!) I cut a slot in the plug with my Dremel using a flexi-drive and a cutting disc. Then one tap with a pry bar and it rotated, to be pulled out with pliers. Easy really So my new set of stubby drills didn't get used. No doubt they will one day... Brian -
TR2 snorkel breather - it doesn't have one??
Brian Eldred replied to Brian Eldred's topic in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Sorry Peter not Bob! -
TR2 snorkel breather - it doesn't have one??
Brian Eldred replied to Brian Eldred's topic in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Good idea Bob! These ones only go to 5mm but there are others on eBay and elsewhere. I have a Ryobi cordless right angled drill so will have to check max drill length that would work. -
TR2 snorkel breather - it doesn't have one??
Brian Eldred replied to Brian Eldred's topic in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Thanks for the advice all. I think the plug metal is too thick to split with a chisel, and there's no room to swing a hammer! I'll try cutting a slit with a Dremmel first, if that doesn't work drill at an angle. I'm determined now to get the thing out using whatever implements of destruction necessary. I might just drop the sump to be safe. I'm going to put this off til the snow has gone though...my unheated garage is a bit arctic brass monkeys. Brian -
TR2 snorkel breather - it doesn't have one??
Brian Eldred replied to Brian Eldred's topic in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Mick, is this vented void open at the bottom? i.e. if I take the sump off and drill the plug, will any swarf drop out? Alternatively, I'm wondering how deep the hole is: since the plug on mime is flush with the outside of the casting, swarf may stay in the hole and I could clean it out without having to drop the sump. Bit of a risk though? I'm not brilliant at welding, particularly in the depths of the engine bay. Brian -
TR2 snorkel breather - it doesn't have one??
Brian Eldred replied to Brian Eldred's topic in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Ian, problem is getting a drill in square. I have a right angled drill but even with a 3.5 mm bit it was very tight and had to go in at an angle I've found quite a few more posts on the subject - one mentioned screwing in a one inch bolt, but on mine the plug flange is on the inside so not possible. Someone else mention a core pug extractor, but I can't find such a thing for sale. I'm reluctant to start opening up the hole to get a chisel or screwdriver in, because a) it might still not come out, and then I'm jiggered and b) the risk of getting swarf in the sump, though I guess I cou -
TR2 snorkel breather - it doesn't have one??
Brian Eldred replied to Brian Eldred's topic in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Peter, if you look at the picture of the plug it's flush with the block: it looks to have been inserted the wrong way round, so can't access the lip. Also it seems to be much heavier steel than a normal core plug so I don't think a Dremmel would get very far. -
TR2 snorkel breather - it doesn't have one??
Brian Eldred replied to Brian Eldred's topic in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Sorry to resurrect this post, but I've finally got around to fitting the snorkel. Or I will do when I can get the blanking plug out. I've removed the fuel pump to gain access from above. I found a tip from Roger where he drilled a hole in the plug and used a wood screw to pull it out. I've tried this but a 65mm screw went all the way in without hitting anything. I then tried a short screw with a largish head and a pry bar behind it, but it wouldn't budge even after hitting the bar with a club hammer (though not much room down there!) The plug seems to be made of fairly heavy gauge steel. -
I don't understand why they should be different. The clutch arm is the same, so wouldn't the centre point of the cylinder be in the same place? Or am I missing something
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I've re-fitted the cylinder on the engine side of the mounting plate and it seems to work, though the push rod is adjusted to it's maximum plus a bit - it could do with being a bit longer - and is not quite in line with the cylinder. According to Revington the TR6 (non-adjustable) pushrod is 6'' to the centre of the clevis pin hole. Mine is extended a good bit longer than that. I've only tested the clutch as far as turning the gearbox flange with it in gear - it seems to disengage OK, but the pedal is quite heavy. I'll try running it without the propshaft on in due course. Incidental
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Stuart, by 'on the front' do you mean the gearbox side, like mine is currently mounted? That to me is the back My TR6 (Lockheed) cylinder looks a similar shape to the Girling one, so I would think it should mount engine side. Looking at the images of the plates on the Moss website, I've got the Girling type. Not sure what the difference is? So a right mish mash. I can't find any reference anywhere to the length of the pushrod - Moss say 'cut to length'! I guess I will have to suck it and see... Brian
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Brian Eldred started following Clutch slave cylinder
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Having just fitted a recon J-type overdrive gearbox to my TR2, I'm re-connecting the clutch. I was a bit puzzled about the slave cylinder, but after some research I discovered that what I have is a TR5/6 cylinder, which apparently is Lockheed 1'' bore as opposed to 1 1/8'' for the correct TR2/3 Lockheed type. It seems these were used as an alternative when the originals weren't available. A couple of questions: From the picture, am I right in saying that it's mounted on the wrong side of the bracket, i.e. it should be on the engine side, the same as the Girling cylinders? How
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Moss J-type overdrive conversion bracket
Brian Eldred replied to Brian Eldred's topic in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
I've bought a NOS angle drive and a 69'' (I think) cable, but haven't tried fitting them yet. -
Moss J-type overdrive conversion bracket
Brian Eldred replied to Brian Eldred's topic in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
By the way I've not been able to source an overdrive switch, the ovoid type part no 112474. If anyone has a spare they can sell me, please let me know!