Jump to content

Brian Eldred

TR Register Members
  • Content Count

    107
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Brian Eldred

  • Birthday March 16

Profile Information

  • Location
    Wetherby
  • Cars Owned:
    TR4A 1966
    TR2 1955

Recent Profile Visitors

543 profile views
  1. Ralph, thanks for that, very interesting! Particularly the last picture from Mike Graham, showing a cardboard template that's 21" long. I obviously have the Moss type irons, and mine measure 19" long, so that explains a lot. How come Moss got such a simple lump of metal so wrong? Anyway today I've bolted up the valance and trial fitted the bumper to the irons and propped it up on a block of wood. Just to check if my apron is about right, I measured from the cross tube to the centre lower face of the apron: 9 3/4 " (in old money) and the apron to rear of bumper 1 1/2 ". does anyone have an
  2. Hi Malcolm, Simple answer is I don't know. They came with the car and were rusty, but the car has been standing for over 20 years. I had them powder coated. I wonder if there is a general problem with repros? Brian
  3. Good evening, I've just fitted the front apron to my TR2 for the first time, and I find that the inner bumper irons foul the bottom of the apron. I fitted the irons first, but the apron wouldn't shift low enough by about 1/2 inch. So I removed the front bumper iron bolts, and the apron now fits fine. I found someone on the Triumph experience forum that had a similar problem, and it was suggested that the apron had been repaired incorrectly so that the bottom of the mouth sat too far forward. I'm wondering if mine might be similar. You can see from the pictures that the upward curve
  4. It looks like I'll have to try a repair job. The flanged Oilite bush described in George's link looks like a good idea, and available on eBay.
  5. Good evening. The bell crank on my TR2 H4 carbs is well worn, with lots of slop that causes the throttle not to close properly. I can't find any new parts available, so I'm wondering if anyone has any spare bits? Part numbers are pivot 106759 and lever 106756. Thanks, Brian
  6. Yes I tried and failed to get the front one in in one piece by various methods so ended up cutting it in half. Can't see how this could cause a problem. Oh yes. The bushes came with a sachet so used half of it. Cheers, Brian
  7. Mission accomplished. I used my own method in the end - bush cut in half and inner part of rear bush slit lengthwise. The other side looks just as tight!
  8. Well, I can't even get the rear wishbone off - not enough clearance from the inner wing. I'm now wondering about cutting the old bush off, cutting the new cotton reel bush in half, then slitting one half lengthwise to squeeze over the fulcrum pin. Anyone see any problem with that? Just trying to avoid the faff of making a spring compressor and further dismantling. I'm considering cutting the other bush in half too, as it just doesn't want to go in in one piece. I'm greasing it, squeezing it in the vice to half it's size and it just flies out...I'll try pulling it through with a bolt next.
  9. I wonder if that would work? I'm going to continue to dismantle tomorrow and assess. If I need to remove the spring I'll make sure I use a suitable compressor - I think I have some threaded rod somewhere.
  10. According to the manual one can remove the spring without a spring compressor. Is this doable? If you look at the picture, there's hardly any clearance for the rear wishbone. I think will have enough trouble getting it off! Will have to remove the fulcrum pin somehow I think. Thanks guys, Brian
  11. Bob, I've read that the polybush takes a lot of squeezing in, like in a vice, or pulling it in with a bolt and washers.
  12. Afternoon all, I'm trying to replace said bushes with one-piece poly bushes. Reading the Haynes manual it looks easy! But part way through dismantling, it looks like it's going to be very tight getting the rear wishbone off, and impossible to get back on with a one-piece bush. Ah, just unbolt the fulcrum pin I thought, but it seems the rear bolts don't have captive nuts. Any tips on doing this with minimum dismantling please? I've searched the posts but can't find a good answer. Thanks, Brian
  13. Thanks for advice all as always. Deal done with Drewmotty!
  14. Here are images of the blanking plug and the engine number. According to the PO, the car has been off the road since 1973, so I can't imagine the engine has been elsewhere. So it's a mystery. I guess I need to source one, any ideas? There's one on eBay, but £60 seems a bit steep. Also I gather removing the plug will be tricky.
  15. All pictures I've seen of RHD cars have them parked on the right (drivers) side, so maybe the arms are correct. My TR4a wipers park on the drivers side, which makes it easier to lean out and push them down when they get stuck on a dry screen (I've recently changed to a TR6 motor, but they still stick when parking...) Brian
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.