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Brian Eldred

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About Brian Eldred

  • Birthday March 16

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  • Cars Owned:
    TR4A 1966
    TR2 1955

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  1. Stuart's bracket was exactly the same as mine, so I must have already had the Lockheed one. The long face is curved, unlike the image in the Moss catalogue, The hole is the right size for the larger diameter Lockheed cylinder, but I still don't know what other difference there might be. So I've fitted a new Lockheed cylinder and hose, shortened the pushrod by about 8mm, adjusted it and bled it. The pushrod is still slightly off horizontal but it all seems to function OK, and the clutch engages about half way up the pedal travel.. However I've still got trouble changing gear, particularly
  2. Sorry Stuart, I misread, getting my Lockheeds and Girlings crossed! I presume I can message you on here.
  3. The main difference in the bracket looks to be the straight side on the Lockheed v the curved side on the Girling. Mine has the curved side, which fits around the bell housing. This suggests that the Lockheed one fits in front of the bell housing. MEV Spares has the Lockheed cylinder and hose at very reasonable prices so I think this is the way to go, but it seems the bracket is no longer available. So it's either see if it fits the Girling bracket, or make one. Anyone have a picture /pattern? The pushrod is also at a bit of an angle, but it looks like using the end hole on the clutc
  4. Sorry to resurrect this post, but I'm still having clutch problems. The clutch 'feels' OK and engages with the pedal half way up, but engaging any gear is now hit and miss (it worked OK for a while, but I've only done 100 miles while resolving other issues...). When I look at the slave cylinder, I can manually push the push rod back a fair way - the spring isn't retracting it fully. Then the pedal goes most of the way down with little resistance and I have to pump it. Also, without the push rod retracting I don't know how to adjust the clearance. Could it be a swollen hose inhibiting
  5. I just found the tap I used. The plug came from Revington. Just to add to the confusion Brian
  6. Update: it's out! . I used this 6mm tungsten carbide grinder in my Dremel (first one I bought was the wrong size) to centre and open out the hole to near 5/16'', then drilled out with the 5/16 bit that came with the kit. Was a bit nervous hammering the extractor in as it was reluctant and only went in half way, but I shifted it with a ring spanner on the slip over nut. Huge sigh of relief...
  7. Thanks Mick, I was hoping you would chip in with your pearls of wisdom. I'll look for a cylindrical file drill attachment first before trying to make my own I think. Maybe a job for the Dremel. I'll be taking the 4a out for Drive It day tomorrow! Just put the battery on charge... Brian
  8. Hi Howard, it's not a pointy type extractor, it's the parallel fluted type with a nut that Mick pictured above. I might try your tip to enlarge the hole though, as the larger the extractor the less scary!
  9. I tried a masonry drill, but don't have any new ones and it didn't make much impression. But then i found a set of cobalt stubby drills I forgot I had, and these are working fine. However I'm now wondering which size extractor to use and how much torque they will take. I've drilled out to 1/4'', progressively up to 6mm then using the 1/4'' drill that came with the kit. However the hole has wandered off centre somewhat and I'm concerned that the next size up, 5/16'' might hit the threads. Also I have a 7mm cobalt drill, but 5/16 is just under 8mm so would again have to use the HSS drill th
  10. Well it worked for me, that stud removed successfully My problem is the one that's sheared off about 3mm above the block face. It's the rear stud by the heater valve. I've bought a fluted extractor kit, the American Pro one. Took a while as the first supplier was out of stock. However I'm making no progress drilling the stud. First I used a nut over the remaining stud and one of the guides in the kit, with a hand drill - there's no room for my drill stand. The drill snapped. Tried another drill but made no impression. I then ground the stub flat, centre punched it and tried a smalle
  11. Thanks Bob, that's filled me with confidence I do wonder what caused one stud to shear at the block face and another at the head face? I've bought another tool with a serrated cam to hopefully shift that one. As it happens the engine was running fine, but for how long is anyone's guess....
  12. Thanks Mick, I've ordered the US Pro set from eBay, though at £19.35 including postage I don't think it comes from the US...I like the idea of a drill stand if I can find a way of clamping it - would probably have to remove some more studs. The studs are 1/2 in. so can probably take a bit more torque. I also have a centre stud sheared at the top - the one sheared at the block is the rear one that hides behind the heater valve, and I didn't know this was gone until taking the head off. I've been thinking of leaving the centre one but just as well I didn't.... I've made a little w
  13. Hi Mick, I have a head stud sheared off at the block face. Do you think one of these kits would be up to the job? They state they go up to a 16mm stud. Thanks, Brian
  14. Luckily I wont have to. The car hasn't been properly on the road since it was rebuilt 25 years ago, apart from me doing a few miles testing things out. It seems the previous owner got this bit of the rebuild wrong, though strangely it worked for a while! Brian
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