Jump to content

Brian Eldred

TR Register Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Brian Eldred last won the day on July 27 2019

Brian Eldred had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

12 Good

About Brian Eldred

Profile Information

  • Location
  • Cars Owned:
    TR4A 1966

Recent Profile Visitors

400 profile views
  1. I shall certainly consider Bob's lights once she is up and running! Progress to date: Just fitted Alicool alloy fuel tank. Had a bas***d of a job connecting the outlet pipe, as the boss was not quite aligned and doesn't protrude through the hole in the floor like the old one. Bought some Securon seat belts, model 514/15 as per the Securon site fitting guide. But the stalks are ridiculously short - wouldn't allow any seat adjustment. So I've returned them and swapped for 514/30 (30cm stalks). Not sure how I'm going to fix the reinforcement plates yet Ordered brake and clutch cylinder seals all round. Had a discussion in another post as to whether really necessary (it's got silicone fluid in), but for £60 I guess better safe than dead. Had bumper irons and a few other rusty bits sand blasted ready for powder coating. Stripped the carbs and ordered Viton seals to replace the cork ones. Getting stuck in on the chrome with the Solvol Autosol. I think the only bits that will need re-chroming are the rear over riders and the side screen fixing thingys. The front bumper has come up a treat luckily. The inside rims of the chrome wires are pretty rusty which is a shame since they were new and have never seen the road. Outsides OK though I think. When I've got the carbs back together I'll check the ignition over and try firing her up. Which reminds me to order new coolant hoses....more 24 year old rubber. While I was underneath I noticed the diff looks rather oily, though it's been rebuilt so don't know why it should be leaking?
  2. Hi Rod, I think I can make it out, a bracket under the boot handle? Trouble is the TR2 doesn't have a boot handle, just a lock and 2 Dzus fasteners.
  3. Rob, lovely. I like the white hood and screens. Mine were originally fawn, don't know why the previous owner changed to black, but they are double duck so good quality. I had someone sew new windows into my TR4a hood so will enquire at least about the side screens. Not investigated the wedge screws yet.
  4. Hi Rod, yes I think I've got a good one here! Sidescreens: I do have the alloy wedges, I wondered what they were at first. I don't know if I have the screws. I was also wondering how the flappy bits should be attached, and why there are no lift the dot pegs on the doors to attach the tonneau cover, which I surmise are also used for the sidescreens? Also the window plastic seems to have a miriad of little bubbles in it so will have to be replaced. Maybe get some zips sewn in at the same time. I will drop you a PM about the boot rack, but that's a way down the list I feel. As for a 'real TR', I think my 4a is pretty real, and certainly more civilised. But I had a TR3 briefly when I was a 19 year old student and have hankered after one ever since. That one was finished in silver Hammerite over masking taped holes and was held together by its hard top. I wonder where it is now?
  5. Mike, yes I didn't think of looking on the reverse
  6. Bob, no the front is the original TR2 I guess, rest of body is from a 3, unless any other panels were re-used! I've just done LED upgrades on my 4A but not tried them yet.... Yes it's still got drums and Lockheed rear axle. Maybe a future upgrade. It doesn't have overdrive, another future upgrade!
  7. Thanks all, I'll try bleeding first. I will of course be checking/inspecting everything on the car, particularly rubber bits. The tyres are unused but 24 years old so will have to go! It looks like the fuel supply pipework is all metal so one less task.
  8. First jobs will be: Replace fuel tank. The current tank has been professionally repaired, but one end is covered with fibreglass mat which doesn't inspire confidence! I've ordered an alloy tank from Alicool. Strip/check brakes, maybe replace seals (I have another post going on that one) Do some engine compartment detailing while access is good. Replace fluids, and get her fired up! Fit front apron And meanwhile get some re-chroming done - rear overriders and small bits. Any recommendations in Yorkshire?
  9. Having read John Murray's post prompted me to write a similar one! OWP315, TS6491 arrived in an enclosed trailer on Monday. The seller was a nice chap from Northumberland who is/was a member and I was put in touch via the Wharfedale and Nothumbria Group Leaders. The car was bought by this chap's dad Keith in 1971 and run until 1973 when it was laid up until he retired in 1996. It then went through a full restoration - it looks like the chassis and mechanicals were done by Keith and body, fitting and paint by the Northern TR Centre as it was at Sedgefield, which is also where most of the parts came from (I have a large file of receipts). The body is from a TR3, so it's a bit of a hybrid, but it looks like the TR2 front was retained. Sadly it was never quite put on the road due to illness and the seller inherited it in 2009, since when it's been dry stored. I have a copy of the production records extract supplied by the Register in 1994. This gives a build date of 24 May 1955, body colour BRG, trim brown vynide, hood/curtains Fawn, destination Northdown Motors, other spec R M H Nil Wire TC(Fawn) though I don't know what that all means, apart from wire wheels. So here it is. The paintwork is still great (Jaguar racing green apparently), some of the chrome not so. The underside is spotless save for cobwebs. The front apron is detached - I don't think it's ever been re-fitted. The engine has been turned over regularly but I don't know when it last ran. Shouldn't take too long to get her back on the road for the first time in 47 years!
  10. Hi, I've just bought a 1955 TR2 that was fully restored in 1996/7 and hasn't been run since. It had new brake cylinder seals, a recon Lockheed master cylinder, and silicone brake fluid. But that was some 24 years ago. So my question is, do seals deteriorate with time and no use? Should I replace them all as a matter of course? My gut feeling says yes, but if there is a good pedal and no leaks maybe it's a case of 'if it ain't broke don't fix it'. Thanks
  11. I've just read this with interest, as I've also just bought a 1955 TR2. Mine was restored in 1996/7 and not run since. I think I had better start another post!
  12. Thanks Chris, that sounds like a good solution. We did a 1700 mile trip to France last year and that's when I decided I needed less noise! Not been anywhere this year of course :-((
  13. The Phoenix systems seem very popular (but pricey). What's the noise level like at cruising speed (say 60 -70) with the big bore sports system? I've not managed to find anything of the same dimensions as my current back box, so I might have to bite the bullet and replace the complete system. I know it's probably been covered before, but are there many advantages of a big bore system over standard bore on a standard engine ? And what size is standard bore anyway? Thanks, Brian
  14. Thanks Mark. What bore is the inlet pipe?
  15. I've found one for a classic mini that looks similar. I've requested the dimensions.
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.