Rod1883 Posted September 20, 2020 Report Share Posted September 20, 2020 ...now this query is for a 1961 MG Midget, but it has a similar set up to the Lockheed system on the TR2. I have a couple of issues - I've fitted new shoes but I can't seem to get the shoes adjusted correctly. I've adjusted the cam to almost the maximum and still can't get the drum held tight. Has anyone any thoughts on what I might have done wrong? I'm wondering if the brakes might just need to have a few miles run to get everything to centre up/position correctly, and then recheck? The other question is on the conical shoe retaining spring. I've sourced new ones as these were missing - has anyone any tips on how to get them to locate correctly? (Before anyone says you have a TR2 - I fitted a Girling axle back in the early '80's after breaking too many half shafts so I've forgotten anything I might have known about this set up ) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harlequin Posted September 20, 2020 Report Share Posted September 20, 2020 I had the same trouble with my 1952 MG TD, it was caused by the new shoes being a bit undersize I fixed it by getting the old shoes relined. Rubbish repro parts are not exclusive to TRs George Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted September 20, 2020 Report Share Posted September 20, 2020 If the cam is at maximum, & the drum can still be turned then either the drum has been skimmed too much, or the shoes (linings) are the wrong ones or just too thin. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rod1883 Posted September 20, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2020 Thanks George and Bob The drums were new (from Moss) about six or so years ago I think. I've had some advice from another forum to try to set it all up with the handbrake linkages all completely disconnected as the way the hubs hang can affect things if the handbrake is connected (even if it is released), which I will try tomorrow. It could be that the new shoes are poor quality, but I did try to refit the old ones that aren't too worn, and couldn't get it to all adjust up with them either. I do have some more new drums which I purchased when MGOC spares had a special offer recently, and I also have the old ones from six odd years ago somewhere.... so I can try those options too. The reason for the work is that one of the wheel cylinders leaked a small amount of fluid onto the shoes and although I cleaned them up when replacing that cylinder a year or so back, new shoes (and replacing the other cylinder as it would be wise to do both) have now come to the top of the to do list. Rod Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ralph Whitaker Posted September 21, 2020 Report Share Posted September 21, 2020 (edited) I assume you have the correct shoes? There are different part numbers although they look similar. I have a later midget rear brake set up on my A35 van. You mention the beehive retaining spring, that was only used on the early set up with the single piston wheel cylinder, also I have come across 2 different cams for these adjusters with different diameter centres, could you have shoes machined for the bigger diameter adjusters and your cams are the smaller items. Also the original shoes would have had riveted linings, modern bonded shoes sometimes use thinner linings so the shoes are to all intents and purposes "worn out" before fitting. I have got round this in the past by making a shim that wrapped around the adjuster cage and took up some slack. Ralph. Edited September 21, 2020 by Ralph Whitaker Additional paragraph. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rod1883 Posted September 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2020 Thanks Ralph. The part number and design of the shoes mean they should be correct for the early single piston wheel cylinder set up that I have on the midget (October 1961, Gan1). I'm having another look at it all this morning. I have ordered a new set of cams and cages in case that is (part of) the problem. The new shoes have thicker linings than the ones being replaced. I'll update here later..... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John McCormack Posted September 21, 2020 Report Share Posted September 21, 2020 I have a similar problem with my long door TR2 that has the Lockheed rear end. I do get the handbrake to bight but at the end of the adjustment. I'm assuming the shoes are incorrect, they came with the car and I don't know their history. You have reminded me of another job! Damn, I thought I was down to only two to do, now it is 50% more. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rod1883 Posted September 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2020 So I spent Monday working on the nearside - new wheel cylinder and new shoes etc to match the new parts on the off side that I had struggled with over the weekend. I followed advice from another forum which suggested supporting the end of the axle/hub and leaving the handbrake lever disconnected whilst adjusting on the cam. The nearside adjusted up OK - although it was still quite high on the cam with not much adjustment left. I must admit I'm struggling a little to understand the geometry of why that should help as it's a solid rear axle. I then re-did the off side adjustment with the hub/axle supported handbrake disconnected - better but the cam was almost at the limit of adjustment. Still couldn't get the conical 'beehive springs to locate. Advice from elsewhere suggests the modern repro springs locating tangs are too long, but I could find anything sharp/strong enough to cut them down. I've ordered new cams and cages so will try those when they arrive to see if these are the issue (worn, or the wrong ones perhaps). I still have a brand new set of MGOC sourced drums to try as well (after sorting the issue below....). I have a new problem now - evidence of the hub oils seal leaking found whilst working on the car - need to get that fixed before it wrecks my new shoes.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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