john.r.davies Posted January 27, 2020 Report Share Posted January 27, 2020 This is a new thread over on The Triumph Experience about a TR2 block crack: https://www.triumphexp.com/forum/tr2-and-tr3-forum.6/tr2-block-cracked-use-as-is-or-repair.1673977/ It leads via another link to a thread on The British Car Forum, describing in vivid, illustrated detail the repair of a similar crack on, I think a TR3: https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?97470-Block-Crack-Repair The discussion on TE urges a weld or braze to prevent crack extension. Owners and our resident engineers may be interested! John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted January 27, 2020 Report Share Posted January 27, 2020 But similarly the possible block warp or hardening ramifications of a welded repair on the block is discussed also and the "Lock and stitch" insert used instead (very nice too). Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted January 29, 2020 Report Share Posted January 29, 2020 Do we not also follow the factory advise of placing a wrap of lead linger around each head stud under each head nut washer to seal the stud to the head. Thus limiting the passage any water to the oil areas? Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted January 29, 2020 Report Share Posted January 29, 2020 52 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: Do we not also follow the factory advise of placing a wrap of lead linger around each head stud under each head nut washer to seal the stud to the head. Thus limiting the passage any water to the oil areas? Peter W Do Moss sell it Peter ? I can't see it on the site. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted January 29, 2020 Report Share Posted January 29, 2020 No Mick part number 30123 was deleted a while back. I still have about 3/4 lb left of the original lead linger which is basically lead wire. You can substitute non cored solder as that is the same sort of thing. Cheers Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted January 29, 2020 Report Share Posted January 29, 2020 (edited) 19 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: No Mick part number 30123 was deleted a while back. I still have about 3/4 lb left of the original lead linger which is basically lead wire. You can substitute non cored solder as that is the same sort of thing. Cheers Peter W Additional info but slightly off topic I guess 2 feet of lead linger per TR engine would do. On the assumption you need enough linger to single wrap 10 head studs (Pi x 0.5") which is 18". Plus another wrap for the oil pressure relief valve lock nut, say another 2" Possible source, but too large a diameter - Offered in USA by roto metals at 1$ per foot. The original lead linger is 1/16" diameter (1.8mm) and the smallest diameter this company offer is 1/8". (3.2mm) https://www.rotometals.com/lead-wire-by-the-foot/ Or you could just triple the wraps with this stuff at 0.6mm diameter https://www.sportfish.co.uk/veniards-lead-wire.html Cheers Peter W Edited January 30, 2020 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 30, 2020 Report Share Posted January 30, 2020 Source here in various sizes http://www.goodfellow.com/E/Lead-Wire.html Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted January 30, 2020 Report Share Posted January 30, 2020 1 hour ago, stuart said: Source here in various sizes http://www.goodfellow.com/E/Lead-Wire.html Stuart. At £200 per metre I'd be able to pay someone else to rebuild my engine, if only I could sell my roll of the stuff at that price! Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 30, 2020 Report Share Posted January 30, 2020 2 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: At £200 per metre I'd be able to pay someone else to rebuild my engine, if only I could sell my roll of the stuff at that price! Peter W I know Im not quite sure how they arrived at that price as thats well over the top! Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted January 30, 2020 Report Share Posted January 30, 2020 Just now, stuart said: I know Im not quite sure how they arrived at that price as thats well over the top! Stuart. It is aimed at the scientific world. They probably expect the scientists to be spending someone else's budget. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted January 31, 2020 Report Share Posted January 31, 2020 Having got around to looking at the repair process, I don’t understand how a crack like that can lead to overheating - unless it’s because it becomes impossible to achieve the right clamping force in the relevant stud with a resultant head gasket blow. Happy to be educated. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted January 31, 2020 Report Share Posted January 31, 2020 I've checked the posting Ian and I can't see any reference to overheating (unless missed) or is that your inference ? In my opinion that's a good engineering fix...but a sledgehammer to crack a nut. There are many blocks being used that I've seen (and rebuilt) that have that crack at the rear and none showed overheating problems, the water occasionally found it's way out and fizzed itself to dry on a run but not even a teaspoon amount lost I'd guess. I've fitted studs with PTFE wrapped on the bottom threads which has stopped it, it makes the stud too stiff to fit by hand but just wind the stud in until it reaches the end of the thread and don't overtighten into the block. All the studs take a full torque with no problem. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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