Fireman049 Posted March 11, 2019 Report Share Posted March 11, 2019 (edited) . Edited April 16, 2020 by Fireman049 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted March 11, 2019 Report Share Posted March 11, 2019 Camilo, Tom has a post 60,000 TR3A and apparently had an earlier bonnet that did not have the raised hinge plinths so he fabricated them so that the scuttle and the bonnet would match. Even with the factory bonnet for the post 60,000 cars it is not unusual for these plinths to crack due to stress and weakness from where they were pressed. They often need repair and using lead body solder is a good way to reconstruct them. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted March 11, 2019 Report Share Posted March 11, 2019 (edited) . Edited April 16, 2020 by Fireman049 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qim Posted March 12, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2019 9 hours ago, foster461 said: Camilo, Tom has a post 60,000 TR3A and apparently had an earlier bonnet that did not have the raised hinge plinths so he fabricated them so that the scuttle and the bonnet would match. Even with the factory bonnet for the post 60,000 cars it is not unusual for these plinths to crack due to stress and weakness from where they were pressed. They often need repair and using lead body solder is a good way to reconstruct them. Stan Thank you Stan. That is not my problem, though. I have a bonnet but somehow it appears to be of a thinner metal than the original and the suspicion is that it got swapped while in the paint shop. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Charlie D Posted March 12, 2019 Report Share Posted March 12, 2019 Hello Qim, Nice to hear from you again. You say your bonnet “appears to be of a thinner metal” That makes it sound like you are not 100% certain. I guess the first thing you need to do is make sure you are right and it would be interesting to find out the weight of your bonnet and compare it to the weight of a genuine bonnet. Pretty easy to do with the help of a hooked spring balance, the sort used for checking your bags before you get on a plane, or maybe even bathroom scales, although they may not be accurate enough. You never know, maybe you have an aluminium bonnet…. I guess that would be worth a bob or two… Charlie. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
roger murray-evans Posted March 12, 2019 Report Share Posted March 12, 2019 TR3A original bonnet Camillo It has to be time to take photos of the scuttle and both sides of the bonnet that you have and post them on here.Then we can all be sure what we are looking for. Also try a magnet on the bonnet just to be sure it's steel. Roger M-E Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted March 12, 2019 Report Share Posted March 12, 2019 Dont forget that a bare metal panel will be much thinner and lighter than a painted panel. It is amazing how much several layers of primer and color coat weigh. I agree with Roger above, time to see some pictures. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qim Posted March 12, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2019 Hi Yes, I will try and weigh the bonnet. That's a good idea. But bear in mind that I had the same bonnet in the car since I bought it in 1977. It is now strange in a number of ways suggesting that it was replaced. One thing is that the corners near the windscreen tend to flop over the beading and touch/damage the wing, because they are very flappy, Never had that in over 40 years. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
roger murray-evans Posted March 12, 2019 Report Share Posted March 12, 2019 Camillo A picture of my TR2 bonnet (early aluminium type). Weight of bonnet with filler 24lbs Weight of previous body filler removed by hand. 12lbs.! Weight of bonnet without filler.Yes! 12lbs! Roger M-E Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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