qim Posted October 16, 2016 Report Share Posted October 16, 2016 (edited) According to some posts, and to information in the RevingtonTR site, fuel gauges for the TR3A have specific senders, or they will not function properly There are two gauges mentioned: FG 2530/20, and PG163 (although I have seen references to others):. The first works with sender 80085/1; the second works with sender FT3331/02. I have an FG 2530/20 gauge and have problems with an unstable needle. I am not sure what sender I installed in the tank when I changed it for a stainless steel one. However, I have the old sender, which has marked FT333 /02 (I am not sure if this is equivalent to the FT 3331/02). Does anyone have a 80085/1 sender? The alternative is to service my old sender but do not know what is involved and if anyone in the UK does this type of work. After that, I would look for a swap of gauges (mine, for a PG163) Any ideas of how I could pursue this, please? Thanks qim Edited October 16, 2016 by qim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted October 16, 2016 Report Share Posted October 16, 2016 I believe what they mean by not fuctioning properly is that the readings will be wrong, as the resistance of the sender does not match the requirement for the gage. If yours gives the correct reading then your sender is the right one. Having the wrong sender should not make the needle unstable. These fuel gauges are not damped in any way, so give instantaneous readings and will waggle about to some extent during driving as the petrol level sloshes in the tank. If the needle is very unstable at certain points it indicates a poor connection somewhere and this may be due to a worn sender where the moving contact is intermittently losing connection with the resistive track. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qim Posted October 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2016 Hi, thanks Rob Even at a standstill the needle is unstable. At low petrol levels I have no idea if I have fuel or not. I certainly get an idea when it is half full or full but would like better approximation and a teady needle at rest. I will check the earthing on the sender when I have a chance. Thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 16, 2016 Report Share Posted October 16, 2016 Its very often poor earthing and also the track on the sender gets a bit corroded. If you remove the sender then you can bend the tabs and remove the cover to the sender track and carefully clean it with some switch cleaner and a cotton bud which will help. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qim Posted October 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2016 Hi Stuart I would not venture opening the sender myself... but cannot understand what you mean by "bending the tabs". Here is my spare sender. Thanks qim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted October 17, 2016 Report Share Posted October 17, 2016 Some top covers are held on with metal tabs bent over, your photo shows the cover held on with two screws. Note, to dismantle you will need to remove the nuts on the terminals before removing the cover, as the terminals are part of the lower workings, & must withdraw through the cover. Once the cover is off it will be fairly clear how it all works, & which bits to clean. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted October 17, 2016 Report Share Posted October 17, 2016 The sender and the gauge need to be matched, regardless of the numbers and this can be done on the bench by a proper electrical engineer. My was done and now works very well. I also carry a spare gallon of petrol in the boot for emergencies. Take the gauge and sender to a competent man. I did and it now works well. Richard & H. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 17, 2016 Report Share Posted October 17, 2016 Some of the senders have a small plate to one side where the arm comes out that is held down by some tabs and can be removed to access the resistance track though looking at the picture of the spare one you have that seems to be constructed differently and like Bob says accessible by removing the nuts and screws. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted October 17, 2016 Report Share Posted October 17, 2016 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qim Posted October 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2016 Note, to dismantle you will need to remove the nuts on the terminals before removing the cover, as the terminals are part of the lower workings, & must withdraw through the cover. Hi Bob I will take it to an electrician but just to make sure he knows what to do, could you expand on the "remove the nuts on the terminals"? Where are the terminals? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qim Posted October 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2016 Take the gauge and sender to a competent man. I did and it now works well. Richard & H. Could you give me his contact, as I may eventually send him the gauge and sender? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted October 17, 2016 Report Share Posted October 17, 2016 http://www.jdo1.com/ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted October 17, 2016 Report Share Posted October 17, 2016 Wrong Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted October 17, 2016 Report Share Posted October 17, 2016 Wrong Why? he has done three for me send both units and they come back spot on Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted October 17, 2016 Report Share Posted October 17, 2016 Hi Bob I will take it to an electrician but just to make sure he knows what to do, could you expand on the "remove the nuts on the terminals"? Where are the terminals? Qim. The terminals are the two threaded items sticking out from the top of the sender (in your photo above) Actualy one is the earth connection, & is part of the cover, the other is probably brass, & will slip through the hole in the cover once the nut is removed. I repaired, & re-calibrated Richards sender, & gauge, If you would like me to do yours, I am quite happy to do so. I would only seek payment for the return postage. Cheers Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qim Posted October 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2016 (edited) . I repaired, & re-calibrated Richards sender, & gauge, If you would like me to do yours, I am quite happy to do so. I would only seek payment for the return postage. Cheers Bob. Hi Bob That is very kind of you, but bearing in mind that I would come and collect it (I am in Oxford, regularly) I would insist on some sort of reasonable compensation. Probably, we would have to wait until January, when I will disassemble the car and be without it for a couple of months. Regards qim Edited October 17, 2016 by qim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted October 17, 2016 Report Share Posted October 17, 2016 Hi, Bob is the answer to my problem. My tank has only been half filled in my ownership so the track was worn and the top half could not be used. Easy solution for the right man. Richard & H. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted October 17, 2016 Report Share Posted October 17, 2016 Hi Bob That is very kind of you, but bearing in mind that I would come and collect it (I am in Oxford, regularly) I would insist on some sort of reasonable compensation. Probably, we would have to wait until January, when I will disassemble the car and be without it for a couple of months. Regards qim That's fine, send me a PM when you are ready, & we can exchange contact details. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted October 17, 2016 Report Share Posted October 17, 2016 Why? he has done three for me send both units and they come back spot on Neil. I meant "wrong" this was not the person who repaired Richards gauge - which is what qim asked ! I'm sure your man would do a splendid job. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qim Posted October 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2016 Hi Bob I thought I had already sent this but as I can't find the post here it goes again I had the sender (the spare one) tested and the results were 99 om when at top (full) and 19 ohm at the bottom (empty) with a steady progression from extreme to extreme. Does that mean that all's well with that sender and that the erratic movement of the needle even when car is at rest may be due to something else? I tested also the earthing on the sender that is in the car and that is also fine. The needle moves just like the amp meter, which I believe is normal, but could they be connected in some way? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted October 19, 2016 Report Share Posted October 19, 2016 Hi qim.I can't say (without measuring mine) if those top & bottom figures are correct, but they sound about right.The main thing is that there is a smooth progression from one to the other.That sender is definitely suited to the early type of gauge fitted to the side screen cars.These react instantly to ignition being switched on, & can be a bit "flicky" when going over bumps etc.The later ones fitted to more modern TR's & other moderns are much slower to respond due to the different way they work, for that type the sender is wired the other way round i.e. low resistance for a full tank.Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
6TTR3A Posted October 27, 2016 Report Share Posted October 27, 2016 90% of petrol gauge problems are poor earthing at the gauge, not the sender. The engineers relied on the petrol gauge attachment bracket to provide the circuit to earth (which most of the time it does not ) One of the symptoms is a needle that reacts similar to the amp needle. (In the case of the amp, it is normal) Before taking everything out, provide a dedicated earth wire from the bracket stud on the gauge to a point on the body . The bracket that supports the heater is close by and has screws/nuts that can be used. That "fix" might solve the problem. Your "spare" sender is indeed a Smiths FT3331/02 and appears to be working properly. (Underneath that paint is a "1") Your resistance numbers are a little off the norm (average is 3 ohm empty, 83 ohm full) but your gauge can be calibrated to your numbers by Bob Lebro if you so choose. I repair fuel gauges but I'm a long way away. Frank Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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