sadman Posted July 19, 2016 Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 Hi all, I'm wanting to replace the rebound rubbers on the chassis for the rear suspension on my 4A, the ones on are slightly!? perished/split, They are the ones when jacked up, the shocks rest on, I've replacements (from Moss), the originals are as usual, stuck. Before I hacksaw them off, is the chassis threaded & will the remaining stubs need to be drilled out or are there 'loose' bolts that will fall away. By the way, as a matter of coincidence, it was registerred 19th July '66, 2 years to the day after my wife was born. She's just gone out slamming the door behind her. I feel a few beers comming my way tonight! Joys of married life. I still wonder after 30 years of marraige how I got my handle Sadman?! you think more of that car then me. Doug Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted July 19, 2016 Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 Hi Doug, there should be a 'welded on' nut inside for the bump stop to screw into. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sadman Posted July 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 Thanks for that Roger, sounds like use of water dispersant (no 40) brute force & plenty of ignorance. Doug Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted July 19, 2016 Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 Use a proper penetrating oil - WD40 is, as you know, a water dispersant, and isn't very good at freeing rusty fasteners. Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tim hunt Posted July 19, 2016 Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 I note that perhaps in recognition of this the makers of WD-40 are now marketing a "Specialist Fast Release Penetrant" claimed to quickly penetrate rusted and corroded parts and loosen seized fixings. It is said to be suitable for use on metal, alloys, rubber and plastic. Haven't tried it and would be interested in feedback. I find Plus Gas good. Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR4A1965 Posted July 20, 2016 Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 I remember putting a super tight grip on mine with mole grips after using loads of WD40 too. I hit the mole grips with a hammer and eventually it all started to move and managed to unscrew the stop. I then put a tap through it to clean out the thread. Worked a treat but takes time. Better than saws and drills if you have the time:-) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted July 20, 2016 Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 I arc-welded a nut onto mine, the rubber having long gone, and used a socket with a long breaker bar while it was still hot. Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
250 Posted July 21, 2016 Report Share Posted July 21, 2016 Doug, Having just replaced the ones on the 6 (although on the trailing arm) different location I think on the 4A I tried penetrating oil but no good I applied a little gentle heat with a blow lamp and then used a small chisel on the steel ring the rubber attaches to, to start them off and then used mole grips to unscrew worked well. Mark. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sadman Posted July 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2016 Thanks for the suggestions, I'll give the a try. Doug Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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