McMuttley Posted May 1, 2016 Report Share Posted May 1, 2016 Well, a momentous day, the Bondo B*tch (aka Olde Smokey) has finally come back to life and hit the road (brief test run) after 7 1/2 months. Many thanks to the TR Shop for a very quick exhaust switch and of course, to all of you on this forum for your helpful responses to what must seem like endless nagging (and also Andy Turner for rebuilding the carbs). A bit of a scare when I first cranked over to prime the crabs to see petrol ejaculating across the garage - it seems the flexible full line inserted just before the fuel pump had decided to unscrew its clamps on its own over winter ! ? ! All seems pretty well in terms of temps and oil pressures - even the replacement phoenix large bore exhaust is quieter than the previous (ironic that the radio has accepted defeat and not returned to life - must have known it had no chance with a nice exhaust). Initially an issue with the noise pedal not returning, despite a new throttle return spring - but that soon loosened up, could it be that the connecting rod lever needs extending a a few turns ? ..... but here's the latest question ! The exhaust is popping both under load and lift off, nothing particularly rough, but regular 'popple'. Is this a sign of being a tad too lean ? (fuel is new yesterday) After balancing the air flow in the carbs (HS6) (the front (1 and 2) had a much lower flow to begin with).... I then checked with the colortune. The carbs were pre-set 9 fats down. The front carb was yellow and after 5 flats anti-clockwidse turned to the light blue. The rear carb seemed OK so no alteration. After a 5 mile urban stop start run (which would have previously fouled the plugs with black soot) they didn't look too bad. Left to right 1, 2, 3, 4. Any thoughts before I tinker more tomorrow ? (apart from do not tinker !!!) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted May 1, 2016 Report Share Posted May 1, 2016 (edited) Well done Austin, looks like we both had a successful day. You can't really tell much from plugs unless you do a fast run, then immediately stop, & check them. They will always look black after any period of ticking over. As for "poping" could air be getting into the system somewhere ? If the carbs were set too lean you would notice some hesitation on accelerating from low revs, maybe they are a tad rich ? how does it idle when hot (realy hot) if lumpier than when just warmed up, that could mean they are too rich. Must be great to be back on the road ! I thought mine might have to off the road for quite some time, but turned out OK (for now) see: http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/56460-bouncing-temperature-gauge/ Cheers Bob. Edited May 1, 2016 by Lebro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dpb Posted May 1, 2016 Report Share Posted May 1, 2016 Hi Austin. I had similar plugs after doing lots of engine work last year - one black one, three pretty good. When adjusting the valve gaps shortly afterwards, the black-plug valves needed correcting, and the others were fine. MIght be worth checking. Dave ==== Quote Link to post Share on other sites
McMuttley Posted May 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2016 Thanks gents, will check check for air leaks - all new gaskets on carbs and manifolds, but will have another look around. As a starter I did put some heat shrink over the (not required) vacuum advance 'nozzle', but may not have sealed it properly. I shall also have a look at the tappets and the head stud torque (have been dying for a chance to use my new Norbar torque wrench in anger !) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted May 2, 2016 Report Share Posted May 2, 2016 (edited) Austin, Who said the vac advance is not required? Its purpose is to advance the spark at cruise, so leaving it disconnected makes the spark retarded from what it should be. And the engine will run hotter and wastefully. Peter Edited May 2, 2016 by Peter Cobbold Quote Link to post Share on other sites
McMuttley Posted May 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2016 I was advised that because of the 'racey' tuned state of the engine, vacuum advance was not fitted ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted May 2, 2016 Report Share Posted May 2, 2016 (edited) I was advised that because of the 'racey' tuned state of the engine, vacuum advance was not fitted ? Austin, It should not affect full throttle operation as the vacuum comes only at small throttle openings. So the capsule cant affect wide-open throttle spark timing. The correct capsule is here: http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/40385-distributer-vacuum-unit/ Race cams usually open the exhaust valve earlier than standard, so running without vac advance at cruise will put more heat into the ev than in standard engine. I dont see any benefit in that. Peter Edited May 2, 2016 by Peter Cobbold Quote Link to post Share on other sites
McMuttley Posted May 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2016 Thanks Peter, one more question on on my popping...... I note that when the car is idling (mild warm rather than fully warmed up), it seems as if there is a very regular very quick/slight blip in revs. Could this again be related to an air leak, or mi tappets ? Not sure if this link will work ? https://youtu.be/pzrtjp5OPN4 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted May 2, 2016 Report Share Posted May 2, 2016 Sounds like misfiring on one a lot of the time, occasionally firing on all 4 - thus raising the revs. could just be not warm enough for no choke, would not worry too much about it. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted May 2, 2016 Report Share Posted May 2, 2016 (edited) Thanks Peter, one more question on on my popping...... I note that when the car is idling (mild warm rather than fully warmed up), it seems as if there is a very regular very quick/slight blip in revs. Could this again be related to an air leak, or mi tappets ? Not sure if this link will work ? https://youtu.be/pzrtjp5OPN4 Austin, That's an odd one. Great to be able to hear the sound, even so I can only guess at it. It may be misfiirng most of the time, then it speeds up briefly as all four fire ( the blip). Edit: Bob beat me to it. One of the plugs was sooted , so I'd try changing that for new and see the tickover smoothes out. Peter Edited May 2, 2016 by Peter Cobbold Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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