Jump to content

TR3A rack and pinion steering


Recommended Posts

Welcome Paul,

If your steering is ok, leave it that way. If it needs reconditioning and you are not an originality freak, replace it with R&P. I have a system from Moss, based on a rack from a new Mini One and quite happy with it. It is a bolt on conversion, thus can be easily coverted back and very easy to install. You need to find a solution for the indicator switch and horn but that is easy as well.

Rudi

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Paul,

 

As a fellow new owner (TR3) I tried a number of 3A's without R&P first before settling for my 3 which does have R&P.

 

What a difference!!

 

Obviously this is down to personal experiences (need for originality etc.) but it certainly helped me decide which car to buy.

 

Best Rgds

Greg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Paul,

I've owned 3's both with and without Rack and pinion.The first car had a totally shagged steering box and installing the rack was like fitting power steering by comparison. Lighter steering and tighter turning circle.

My "new" 3A is fitted with the original box that was overhauled a few years ago and I also run narrow 155/15 tires. I've had no complaints with this setup so have formed the opinion that an original box in good condition, coupled with a tire size that the cars were intended for works fine.

 

Mychael

Link to post
Share on other sites

Welcome to the Forum Paul

 

All this talk about being an "originality freak" and the "need for originality" takes away from the fact that vague steering is all the fun of 50's style motoring (albeit with 40’s technology!), so why bring it into the modern(ish) world?

 

If the steering is knackered then just recondition it, don't bother with R & P.

 

Anyway, what’s the attraction of R & P? Why not keep it to how it was intended and just enjoy the experiences?

 

In my (humble) opinion, there are far too many "Gucci" parts appearing (or are currently available) for our cars - we'll be fitting aircon, PAS and electric windows next (TR7 & 8 excluded)!  ???

 

Cheers

Andrew

Link to post
Share on other sites

My steering wandered all over the road from the painted line to the shoulder (verge).  I bought the kit from Protek before they developed the R&P.  I installed it and while the heavy stering is still there, it has given me no problems for the past 10 or 12 years (about 60,000 miles) and it steers straight.  I show my TR3A in US national concours events and this kit cannot be seen behind the air deflectors for the radiator.

 

Don Elliott, Original Owner, Montreal, Canada

http://www.britishcarforum.com/ubbthre....517

Link to post
Share on other sites
Don, if this kit from Protek is not a rack-and-pinion, what is it consisting of then?
Link to post
Share on other sites

It comprises a larger adjusting "peg" for the top of the steering box, a re-worked top to take the larger "peg", and a spring-loaded "peg" that fits inside the larger adjuster.  As most of the wear on an early TR steering box occurs at top dead center as you make small corrections on a straight road, if you adjust downwards on the original peg, it all gets tighter (binds) as you get nearer the extremes at one lock or the other.  The spring loaded design allows for this wear and the spring keeps it all down nice and snug, but at the extremes the spring permits the peg to move up and the steering does not get tighter or binding.  And no-one can see it in a concours because it is all behind the air deflector.

 

If Glen doesn't make them any more because he will suggest the R&P he now sells, I have a source in California who makes them.  He is Herman Van Den Akker who also has the 5-speed Toyota conversions.  Herman is at :-

 

handhvan@msn.com  (Mention my name)

 

Don

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Paul, I am in a similar quandary as I am currently restoring a TR2 which was a none runner so have no idea of condition of steering box. If I was to convert to R&P then now is obviously a good time to do it with the body off. I know 3  local 3a owners 2 have retained original steering and have no problems other than heavy to park, one has converted to R&P and considers it an improvement. I would prefer on balance to keep the original steering but if it is knackered then professional rebuild of steering will cost I believe about the same as a bolt on R & P kit. TR Bitz at Warrington also do an R&P kit I understand which is bolt on, whereas I believe Revington's kit requires welding. I also understand that the mechanical fan and extension have to be dispensed with if R&P is fitted so you need to add the cost of an electric fan to the conversion cost.

Still haven't made my mind up one way or the other. I guess a professional opinion on the condition of the original worm & peg would be a good start. Any recommendations anyone?

Regards

Trevor

 

1954 TR2 Resto

1962 TR4

Link to post
Share on other sites

Trevor - I don't know how anyone can look at the worm and tell you it needs to be replaced.  If he is short of work that week, he could tell you anything.  The worm wears along the sides of the groove (looks like a large ACME thread) as well as along the bottom, in the area where we drive 99% of the time, with the steering at top dead center.  The peg will get worn on the bottom but it can be adjusted down to compensate for this.  Replacement worms are available but at a cost.

 

Don Elliott

 

http://www.britishcarforum.com/ubbthre....517

Link to post
Share on other sites

Revington TR sell a rack conversion (which requires welding) but also have a spring-loaded peg conversion:

RTR3075R TOP PLATE STRG BOX TR2-3B RHD

TR2-3B RHD Improved steering box top cover.

Ex VAT: £47.50         Inc VAT: £55.81

 

I am hoping my steering box will be OK when I eventually have a car to put it back on (I thought the steering was OK when I last drove it about 18 years ago!).  There is a lot of conflicting advice, mostly in favour of R&P, but I don't recall  the R&P TR4A steering being significantly better than the worm and peg TR3A, so will probably opt for originality, but use the springy thingy to compensate for a worn worm if necessary.  At least I'll still have the option to convert to R&P if it fails the MOT!

Link to post
Share on other sites

That was a big reason why i converted my first car to R&P. firstly steering box bits were hard to obtain in the early 80's and the cost was prohibitive. I had a rack converted and fittted for a third of the cost.

Nowdays I guess the price difference might not be as much.

I've just purchased the steering upgrade kit from Revingtons, not fitted it yet but it comprises a spring loaded steering box top as well as modified idler arm bushes.

Mychael

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.