2 Novice Questions

[Mart O]

Hi,

 

A couple of routine jobs, looking for advice on.

 

When I first used to drive my 3A I'm sure the handbrake would fly off quite positively. It now needs a bit of help. Do I just need to replace spring 6 in the attached diagram? http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/brake-system/hand-brake/handbrake-tr2-3a-tr4.html

Is it easy to get to the mechanism inside the handle?

 

RH rear Armstrong damper. I had to tighten its RH mounting bolt to remove a knock over bumps. Item 42 in the diagram: http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/steering-suspension/rear-suspension/rear-suspension-tr2-3a-tr4.html

So far so good, but it was v. difficult to get any purchase on the mounting bolt and I'm not sure how well I've tightened it & how long it will stay tight. I have seen mention of replacing it with an Allen headed bolt. Could anyone direct me to the correct spec and a source? I assume I would need a new nylock nut to go with it? Is the damper under any tension, or will the old bolt slip out and the new one go back in reasonably straightforwardly?

 

Thank you, Martin

[foster461]

Martin, if the hand brake is not releasing it could just be gummed up. The ratchet and pawl live in a pretty hostile environment as does the rest of the cable operated mechanism. The handbrake internal mechanism comes apart for cleaning and servicing very easily but you will have to take it off. I would inspect and clean/lube the bottom end components first since that is easy from under the car and if that doesnt help take the next step and remove the handbrake lever and dismember it.

 

The comments regarding allen head bolts usually refer to a modification done during a restoration where you weld some nuts to the rear of the shock brackets to allow the use of allen head bolts to attach the shocks.

 

Stan

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

No the shock does not hold tension on the bolts - unless the shock is seized,

 

Bolt for shock is 3/8 unf x 1 1/4" long - the standard item is nothing special as far as material is concerned.

 

If you use a cap screw be sure to fit a washer under the head to the shock to ensure load spread - Use new deep type nyloc (? type P ? - Alec) https://www.namrick.co.uk/acatalog/U.N.F._Socket_Cap_Screws.html Or perhaps use hex flange bolts. My own car was bodged with 10mm bolts year ago when the chassis was restored.

 

Does your car not have the grommet through the side floor so you can get a socket on the head of the forward bolt? The rear bolt is accessible with a socket with the wheel off.

 

Handbrake - As Stan has written - Give it a good clean to start with.

 

Peter W

[Mart O]

Thank you both. Peter, I will check for a hole and grommet. Don't recall one. It is the front bolt access that I struggled with, the head is too close to the shock absorber body to get one of my sockets onto it. As regards the handbrake, it all moves smoothly and easily, it just doesn't have much spring, so I have to lightly complete the forwards movement with a push, rather than the spring completing it. Will have another look underneath, but suspect the spring has sprung.

 

Thanks again, Martin

[stuart]

I would also go back through all of the mechanism to the rear wheels as well and make sure everything is free and well greased, the main cable especially can partially seize in its outer.Check also that the mounting bracket on the chassis hasnt cracked as that does happen too.

Stuart.

Edited April 7, 2016 by stuart

[Les]

Martin

 

On the shock absorbers, you could use longer bolts and some hefty spacer tubes to make the bolt heads accessable.

 

Les