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8 hours ago, TRTOM2498PI said:

Hi Niall,

 

I hope the attached image helps here.

tr6 bp.jpg

I gave up on using those clamps, couldn't get the joints tight enough to stop the slip joints from moving and then leaking.  They look great and maybe work OK on thin gauge stainless, but they aren't really designed for this application so I reverted to the less attractive U-bolt style on the 4th attempt (and also installed a flexi at the same time as I didn't want to be doing it a 5th time!).

16789102742226.jpg

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16 hours ago, Andy Moltu said:

A short reduction in exhaust diameter might not reduce the flow hugely so perhaps not a huge concern.

You may have guessed I am a bit of a nutcase, so it was off with the old breast plate, & in with the upper breast plate, fitted down below : )

At this power level in a 1000Kg GRP paneled car, with a 4:1CWP, the difference may well be marginal, which is largely because you cannot get the power down cleanly. Rear-end moves about a bit in the dry too.

Edited by TRTOM2498PI
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20 hours ago, KiwiTR6 said:

I gave up on using those clamps, couldn't get the joints tight enough to stop the slip joints from moving and then leaking.  They look great and maybe work OK on thin gauge stainless, but they aren't really designed for this application so I reverted to the less attractive U-bolt style on the 4th attempt (and also installed a flexi at the same time as I didn't want to be doing it a 5th time!).

16789102742226.jpg

That looks neat. What bore size is that ?  We have not had any issues with exhaust blow as yet.  I am not sure what gauge s/s was used.

 

Is that a lambda sensor blanking plug I see ?

Edited by TRTOM2498PI
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On 3/15/2023 at 11:11 AM, TRTOM2498PI said:

Hi Niall,

 

I hope the attached image helps here.

tr6 bp.jpg

Gotcha, thanks that totally clears that up. I thought it might be that but best to ask. Good thinking.  I am not at this stage yet with my restoration but in doing some research I came across these guys in Holland(see the link below) who do a range of round to oval fittings and tubing in stainless, might be a useful alternative to the upside down breast plate. I'd have a slight concern that the breast plate this way is like a scoop underneath on something which is already low, I'm probably worrying about nothing. Neat job though, well done.

https://jmtuning.com/oval-stainless-steel-tube-1000-mm.html

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On 3/15/2023 at 11:39 AM, stuart said:

What he meant was install an upper plate with the hump to the underneath instead of the normal flat lower plate.

Stuart.

Got it, thanks. The photo worked!

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39 minutes ago, TRier said:

Gotcha, thanks that totally clears that up. I thought it might be that but best to ask. Good thinking.  I am not at this stage yet with my restoration but in doing some research I came across these guys in Holland(see the link below) who do a range of round to oval fittings and tubing in stainless, might be a useful alternative to the upside down breast plate. I'd have a slight concern that the breast plate this way is like a scoop underneath on something which is already low, I'm probably worrying about nothing. Neat job though, well done.

https://jmtuning.com/oval-stainless-steel-tube-1000-mm.html

Thanks very much.  I cannot take any credit for the work, but rest assured he is a very skilled engineer. 

If you are running a tuned Triumph 2.5 + engine, 2.5" exhaust is more than you need and it will pass through the breast plate without any chassis modifications. If a 2.5" is good enough for a race car, it will be good enough for any road going TR6.  The Pheonix big bore systems are 2.25", so anything larger means a bespoke system.

 

I have used the car with this chassis modification for the last 700 miles, including a weekend in Wales over all kinds of surfaces and road conditions, single track roads, & so on.  Chassis clearance is no problem with the downward hump.  However, the whole system does sit lower than that, so that is the most vulnerable.  The only thing to scrape the tarmac now & again, is the silencer box. As you can imagine, with 340bhp & 360lbs ft, does make the rear end squat a little bit at wide open throttle.

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2 hours ago, TRTOM2498PI said:

Thanks very much.  I cannot take any credit for the work, but rest assured he is a very skilled engineer. 

If you are running a tuned Triumph 2.5 + engine, 2.5" exhaust is more than you need and it will pass through the breast plate without any chassis modifications. If a 2.5" is good enough for a race car, it will be good enough for any road going TR6.  The Pheonix big bore systems are 2.25", so anything larger means a bespoke system.

 

I have used the car with this chassis modification for the last 700 miles, including a weekend in Wales over all kinds of surfaces and road conditions, single track roads, & so on.  Chassis clearance is no problem with the downward hump.  However, the whole system does sit lower than that, so that is the most vulnerable.  The only thing to scrape the tarmac now & again, is the silencer box. As you can imagine, with 340bhp & 360lbs ft, does make the rear end squat a little bit at wide open throttle.

Oh I bet it squats alright! A lot of smiles per mile I'd imagine, thanks for the feedback and photos, great post.

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On 3/16/2023 at 10:59 PM, TRTOM2498PI said:

That looks neat. What bore size is that ?  We have not had any issues with exhaust blow as yet.  I am not sure what gauge s/s was used.

 

Is that a lambda sensor blanking plug I see ?

My system is 2.25" mild steel with a free flowing muffler.  The muffler on the original twin pipe stainless system the car came with was a terrible design and quite restrictive.  Replacing it made a noticeable difference.  The plug you see is simply an access point to add oil to coat the insides and reduce corrosion - probably overkill.

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