TR4 boot floor no nuts room

[RobG]

I feel silly asking this but I just don't see how to do it.

I have fitted a new floor and it came with two holes for the boot lid catch plate.

But the rear of the floor is lined up and flush with the lip of the rear valance.

So if I put in a couple of nuts in there it will push out the valance lip.

 

Trying to get my camera to work as a good picture says it all, but having a couple of techy problems with it.

 

Thanks in anticipation,

Rob

 

[RobG]

Here hopefully are a couple of pictures

 

[RAHTR4]

Hi Rob,

 

It appears that you are installing a new rear valance and a new boot floor panel thus you have no original reference points for the two holes.

 

If it were me I would fill up the existing holes in the new boot floor, temporarily join of the valance and boot floor to get the best fit making sure the boot lid properly fits the opening.

 

Set out the position of the two required holes for the catch plate - I think you will need to make slotted holes in order to make it all work, fit the catch plate, boot lid and budget lock making sure it all works together.

 

My car was unmolested in that area, but I purchased a new catch plate as the original was well battered. However the new catch plate could not be adjusted horizontally to make the budget lock close. So I straightened the original catch plate had it re-plated and it was an immediate and perfect fit.

 

Regards, Richard

[bob-menhennett]

Rob

I would deviate slightly from Richard .Getting the boot lid to fit first is the priority as Richard says. A few tack welds or so will hold it in situ.

 

I would then go for the catch plate fitting and final a blob of weld to fill in the surplus part of the extra elongated hole you have made.

Trying to do precision drilling through metal that is part ordinary sheet metal and part hard welded metal is not easy. The drill bit will always " seek "

the line of least resistance and " wander " towards the softer ordinary metal.

You'll probably end up having to use a small round file to shift the weld area that is in the way.

Even if you back the hole with brass plate , you will still have the other side to grind down with the angle grinder or power file to achieve similar thickness metal over the area , so that it all sits flat. So aim for a plan of attack that reduces the need for a lot of extra welding, grinding down.

It looks as though you are making good progress , keep cracking on , you'll get there. Keep up your standards , when you've finished and look back , you'll be pleased you did !!

Bob

Edited March 11, 2016 by bob-menhennett

[RobG]

Thanks for the replies, but my main question is how to get the nuts behind the boot floor when it is flush up against the valance ?

[RogerH]

Hi Rob,

not sure if this is correct, but it worked on mine. I drilled through the floor and valence lip and put round head phillip screws through.

So the heads were in the valence recess visible from the rear with boot open and there were nuts on the forward face of the catch plate.

 

Roger

[RobG]

Roger,

 

Yes that sounds a very simple and practical solution and I will probably do the same.

I need to get to look in an original TR4 next time I am at a club meeting or show just to see what the factory did.

If anyone has a handy 'original' picture of their boot handle catch plate that would be brill.

 

Thanks

Rob

[bob-menhennett]

Rob

I did the same as Roger , only a Bolt fully threaded( Screw ).From the outside , through the rear valance and boot floor metal. Nut , washer and shakeproof washer inside the boot. When the boot aperture rubber rim seal is fitted over the edge , the two heads are difficult to see.

Bob

Edited March 11, 2016 by bob-menhennett

[stuart]

Hi Rob,

not sure if this is correct, but it worked on mine. I drilled through the floor and valence lip and put round head phillip screws through.

So the heads were in the valence recess visible from the rear with boot open and there were nuts on the forward face of the catch plate.

 

Roger

That is how they were fitted originally , the holes are slightly slotted and so are the holes in the catch so you have a fair bit of adjustment.

Stuart.

[RobG]

Am I going nuts ?

Trying to fit the back plate to the rear light holder and which way around do they go ?

Have looked at many examples, one attached from Walter showing clearly attached on inside of inner wing and dishes outwards.

Then looked at TRGB online catalog and it seems the wrong way around, picture attached.

 

Have TRGB got the left and right mixed up ?

 

 

 

 

Edited March 11, 2016 by RobG