david c Posted December 7, 2015 Report Share Posted December 7, 2015 Sorry folks back again I have to fit new seals to the top of the A post, The seals I have bought are a one piece rubber moulding. There are channels in the screen frame, I assume the original seals slid in to these channels. Question is should I just glue the new moulding to the screen frame? Thanks all. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted December 7, 2015 Report Share Posted December 7, 2015 We have discussed these seals before many times, the best ones are the TRF ones that fit the channel nicely and as per original went all the way round the door The UK available ones arent correct and you will struggle to shut the door. If you only have the channel left on the screen frame then what door rubbers are you using? Stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
david c Posted December 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2015 Hello Stuart I have bought but not yet fitted the main door weather seal from Rimmers. I "thought" perhaps that the seals fitted in two separate sections ie around the door that push fit on the seams and then separately (different section) up the side of the screen frame? Thanks David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted December 8, 2015 Report Share Posted December 8, 2015 Originally there was a channel all the way round the door aperture and up the side of the screen frame. This took a specially shaped rubber with a "T" shaped foot to fit in the channel and then there was a separate furflex seal that fitted over the lip all the way round. Neither of these are available as such now so most people use a one piece seal that fits over the lip.Depending on how your doors fit then this is in varying degrees successful. I have been using this seal for a while which although only available in black works well for 4/4a/5/6 doors http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/p-1285-door-seal.aspx If you do a search on here for door seals you will find endless threads about the differing merits of all the types of seals. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tim hunt Posted December 8, 2015 Report Share Posted December 8, 2015 I needed to replace my door seal a couple of years ago. I have s surrey car so needed 6 metres to go all the way round. I used Woolies Catalogue no. 266A "Rubber door seal large bead". My car does not have the original set up, the seal just pushes on a flange all the way round. At first the doors were indeed hard to close but I persevered, adjusting the door progressively closer as the bead compressed. I eventually reached the point where the doors shut flush with the wings and can be shut gently with one finger, no slam required! Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
david c Posted December 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2015 Thank you very much for the advise, I had read some time back about the problems associated with various door seals. For some obscure reason I had led myself to believe that they must be a two part arrangement, one to push over the the sill and A and B post seams and another to fit in the windscreen channel, a view partly backed up by Rimmers web site which offers such a windscreen seal. Now I know better. Tim I'll be very happy if I can achieve just a gentle slam to shut the doors! Oh well onward and upward, back soon with another daft question. Thanks again David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Geko Posted December 9, 2015 Report Share Posted December 9, 2015 Tim I'll be very happy if I can achieve just a gentle slam to shut the doors! Don't count to much on it until the rubber has settled down, the critical location is at the B post triangle reinforcement where the least pressure is applied by the door.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted December 9, 2015 Report Share Posted December 9, 2015 Don't count to much on it until the rubber has settled down, the critical location is at the B post triangle reinforcement where the least pressure is applied by the door.... Also conversely the bottom of the "A" post and the top of the "A" post both areas are where the door contacts the hardest and will make them hard to shut. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR 2100 Posted December 9, 2015 Report Share Posted December 9, 2015 (edited) And don't get too upset if you have to give the doors a good slam. I have two 1962 TR4s, both with the original configuration of rubber door seal in channel and stanpart furflex draught excluder - and I still have to give the doors a good slam! (and Yes, I have checked the closing catch mechanism moves freely). AlanR Edited December 9, 2015 by TR 2100 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted December 9, 2015 Report Share Posted December 9, 2015 And don't geyt too upset if you have to give the doors a good slam. I have two 1962 TR4s, both with the original configuration of rubber door seal in channel and stanpart furflex draught excluder - and I still have to give the doors a good slam! (and Yes, I have checked the closing catch mechanism moves freely). AlanR Been there done that when I first put my 4a on the road having gone to all the trouble of replacing the channel all the way round the door aperture. Gave up due to the rubbers available at that time and now use the Woolies one I quoted earlier. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
david c Posted December 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2015 Thanks all for your help with this, I fitted the "proper" door seal today and it all seams very good, even got the doors to close, with a bit of a slam. the doors / seal gaps do vary, tight in places but no gaps so big that too much weather will get in, well around the doors anyway. But I think that may get better like the boot seal as the rubber gets squashed over time. No doubt it will all have to come off again so I can fit the vinyl trim behind. Kind regards and thanks David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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