Steve P Posted October 30, 2015 Report Share Posted October 30, 2015 Good afternoon, What is the minimum temperature to spray with cellulose? Thanks Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted October 30, 2015 Report Share Posted October 30, 2015 (edited) The flash point will be on the tin. I whould have thought 15 min Stuart will know more. Edited October 30, 2015 by ntc Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Boyd Posted October 30, 2015 Report Share Posted October 30, 2015 15 at bare minimum. Also remembering the damping the air, that will be the deciding factor... 20 degrees personally using high quality anti bloom thinners.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 30, 2015 Report Share Posted October 30, 2015 15 at bare minimum. Also remembering the damping the air, that will be the deciding factor... 20 degrees personally using high quality anti bloom thinners.. Theres no such thing as Anti Bloom thinners thats a marketing con. Humidity will make a lot of difference to how low a temperature you can spray it in but if your prepared to do a bit of flatting and your a bit clever with your air/paint ratio and you have good water traps you would be surprised what sort of conditions you can get away with. I have sprayed cellulose successfully at 50F and lower. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Bracher Posted October 30, 2015 Report Share Posted October 30, 2015 +1 for humidity warning!!! don't heat the space with a gas/paraffin type heater. they produce about the same output of water vapour as they do heat!! Go electric!! I also do not like 'fast drying' thinners for top coat! Stuart, any thoughts?? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steve P Posted October 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2015 Evening gents, I'm only dong the engine bay. I'm happy with 15 degC. Thanks Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 30, 2015 Report Share Posted October 30, 2015 +1 for humidity warning!!! don't heat the space with a gas/paraffin type heater. they produce about the same output of water vapour as they do heat!! Go electric!! I also do not like 'fast drying' thinners for top coat! Stuart, any thoughts?? Always use top quality thinners for any paintwork, look on the tin and see that it says 100% pure thinners as some supposed "Top gloss" thinners actually contains Methanol which will give you trouble with drying times between coats and mean it is always soft. Gunwash thinners is usually re-cycled and contains water as well. If anyone wants a lesson in the proper use and choosing of thinners then talk to Ken of Ken and Lyn paints 07778165966 Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
barry p cook Posted October 31, 2015 Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 I've sprayed my chassis today with epoxy primer and to ensure my garage was at least 15C I bought one of these: http://www.primrose.co.uk/-p-86132.html?adtype=pla&kwd=&showPLA=true&gclid=CJPrj7apx8gCFSsEwwodNwYO1w It's an infra red heater and it's worked remarkably well. I ran it for an hour or so beforehand to bring up the temperature and then switched it off while I sprayed. I finished the top just before the RWC final and once the air cleared switched it back on. After the match we turned the chassis over and it's ready to do the reverse side tomorrow. Barry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SeanF Posted October 31, 2015 Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 That looks good. I've just bought one. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GoranTR2 Posted November 6, 2015 Report Share Posted November 6, 2015 Stuart.. Could you advise on how long time between layers when spraying with cellulose. And how many layers. I am going to respray my TR2 with its original color that was black. And are going to use cellulose to obtain a paint looking like it did when it once was produced. Modern paints has a too high gloss i think, i want the "old look" and think i can get there using cellulose. Göran Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted November 7, 2015 Report Share Posted November 7, 2015 (edited) Depending on temperature then around 10 to 15 mins between coats and 3 full coats if you want to do it as per original, if you are going for a real top class finish then you could do 2 and then flat with 1200 w/dry and then another couple and do the same and then another 2 and do the same then polish up with Farecla G3 and finish off with 3M final glaze. Or if you are really enterprising then you could do one coat and flat and polish every day for a week. Stuart. Edited November 7, 2015 by stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GoranTR2 Posted November 7, 2015 Report Share Posted November 7, 2015 Thanks Stuart! I think that 3 full coats will do for a start. And a polish.. And if i would be unsatisfied with that finish later on, i guess i could then go over with the 1200 w/dry and put on a couple of additional coats. Am i right there? Göran Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GoranTR2 Posted November 7, 2015 Report Share Posted November 7, 2015 It seems to be around 10 old layers of paint... what is the best isolator before putting on cellulosa? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted November 7, 2015 Report Share Posted November 7, 2015 Thanks Stuart! I think that 3 full coats will do for a start. And a polish.. And if i would be unsatisfied with that finish later on, i guess i could then go over with the 1200 w/dry and put on a couple of additional coats. Am i right there? Göran Yes that is the beauty of cellulose that it will blend into previously applied coats. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted November 7, 2015 Report Share Posted November 7, 2015 It seems to be around 10 old layers of paint... what is the best isolator before putting on cellulosa? Personally with that amount on there I would remove it as otherwise you may well get problems with shrinkage/reaction. 2K primer or 2K lacquer isolates pretty well. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GoranTR2 Posted November 7, 2015 Report Share Posted November 7, 2015 Since the car has had some bends all around, there is a lot of filler on it. The job is well done so i would prefer to keep it and go for a isolator first. Someone told me that epoxy-primer also would do the isolation job. Is that correct? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
barry p cook Posted November 7, 2015 Report Share Posted November 7, 2015 Hi Goran, Having finished the chassis I've now started on the body tub. The epoxy primer is supposed to give good isolation for any top coat that you follow up with. I can recommend the following website as a good source of information: http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/ Based on recommendations in the paint section of the forum I have used Lechlar epoxy and I can confirm it's fairly easy to use and gives a good finish. Also, you don't need an air fed mask to spray it safely. I used a Gerson mask as recommened on the mig welding forum. Good luck, Barry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted November 7, 2015 Report Share Posted November 7, 2015 Since the car has had some bends all around, there is a lot of filler on it. The job is well done so i would prefer to keep it and go for a isolator first. Someone told me that epoxy-primer also would do the isolation job. Is that correct? Your choice but with that amount of paint you will more than likely get cracking problems from shrinkage further down the line if you dont. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GoranTR2 Posted November 7, 2015 Report Share Posted November 7, 2015 Thanks Stuart and Barry! I think i want to do some testing, before going over the whole body. Both with epoxy primer and without. I will give a photo-report about my results. Göran Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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