Steve P Posted September 18, 2015 Report Share Posted September 18, 2015 Morning gents, I'm going to do a camshaft change over the weekend. Any tips for removal and installation? Thanks Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graham Posted September 18, 2015 Report Share Posted September 18, 2015 (edited) Steve assuming you have the engine still in the car my suggestions…………. but I've only done it once so apologies if this is stuff you already know. Pull the rocker shaft, (don't forget the bit of cardboard for the push rods) cam followers and dizzy drive, remove rad and front grill, slacken engine mounts and jack engine up a bit so cam shaft clears front panel. New followers plenty of lube ! Vernier timing gear makes life so much easier. Most important of all I've found, in my garage at least .probably because I'm a bit of a numb n*ts , allow at least 3 times longer than you originally anticipated. ATB Graham Edited September 18, 2015 by Graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steve P Posted September 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2015 Thanks Graham, Any tips for getting the camshaft timed correctly? Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
john.r.davies Posted September 18, 2015 Report Share Posted September 18, 2015 Read the workshop manual! There should be marks on the crank pinion, front engine plate and cam sprocket. Get them lined up - really lined up! - before you remove the chain. Then, a new cam shaft with the sprocket on should line up too and have the same timing. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TRsixchris Posted September 18, 2015 Report Share Posted September 18, 2015 (edited) Hi Steve, I have just done this on my car. I agree with Graham but I removed the head as I didn't think you could remove the cam followers with the head still in place. I only removed the left hand engine mount as per WSM and jacked that side of the engine up to get the cam to clear the front panel. I used the original timing marks as per John's post as I was fitting an original spec cam - non symmetrical, odd or wild cams need to be timed accurately using a degree wheel. Assuming that you are using the original timing marks just make sure they are accurately lined up (a bit awkward when leaning into the engine bay). Rotate the engine a couple of revolutions in it's running direction and make sure the timing marks are still accurately lined up. You will need to retime the Metering unit and ignition on reassembly. I was surprised how much car I had to take apart to do this but all seems well now. Good Luck Chris Edited September 18, 2015 by TRsixchris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
john.r.davies Posted September 18, 2015 Report Share Posted September 18, 2015 Sorry - I didn't mean it as RTFM, but that the manual can explain the process better than a hasty post. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graham Posted September 18, 2015 Report Share Posted September 18, 2015 (edited) Hi Steve, I have just done this on my car. I agree with Graham but I removed the head as I didn't think you could remove the cam followers with the head still in place. I only removed the left hand engine mount as per WSM and jacked that side of the engine up to get the cam to clear the front panel. I used the original timing marks as per John's post as I was fitting an original spec cam - non symmetrical, odd or wild cams need to be timed accurately using a degree wheel. Assuming that you are using the original timing marks just make sure they are accurately lined up (a bit awkward when leaning into the engine bay). Rotate the engine a couple of revolutions in it's running direction and make sure the timing marks are still accurately lined up. You will need to retime the Metering unit and ignition on reassembly. I was surprised how much car I had to take apart to do this but all seems well now. Good Luck Chris yes followers will defo come out with head still in place, really sorry was a while ago I did this, could have sworn i still had head on but clearly I'm talking rubbish in future I will keep my fingers off the keyboard on tech matters Edited September 20, 2015 by Graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted September 18, 2015 Report Share Posted September 18, 2015 From below presumably? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted September 18, 2015 Report Share Posted September 18, 2015 You can change the cam with the head in situ. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted September 18, 2015 Report Share Posted September 18, 2015 Assuming that you change the followers too. How's it done? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted September 18, 2015 Report Share Posted September 18, 2015 (edited) Assuming that you change the followers too. How's it done? If you wish to change the followers too you have to remove the head Pete, or the sump. Edited September 18, 2015 by ntc Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted September 18, 2015 Report Share Posted September 18, 2015 You wouldn't put a new cam in without new followers so if the head doesn't come off they will have to go in from below. How does one keep them up out of the way of the cam lobes as the cam goes in? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted September 18, 2015 Report Share Posted September 18, 2015 Magnets Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted September 18, 2015 Report Share Posted September 18, 2015 Thanks Neil. Sounds like That would require more patience than I have. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted September 18, 2015 Report Share Posted September 18, 2015 To be correct Pete the head needs to be off engine out to do it right. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TRsixchris Posted September 18, 2015 Report Share Posted September 18, 2015 I had hoped to do mine without removing the head but once I found the cam followers wouldn't come out through the head casting it was a no brainer to remove it. I had had some problems with the oil pump having been damaged by debris from the failed cam so removing the head allowed me to check the bores and replace the valve springs which seemed excessively strong with a standard set. Chris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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