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Replacing Timing Chain and Tensioner


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Notwithstanding my having replaced both the timing chain and tensioner when I rebuilt the engine on my TR3a only a very few miles ago, I can hear what sounds suspiciously like the chain clattering the chain cover on overrun if I blip the throttle.

 

Two questions, is that normal for a TR engine (I can't imagine it is) and assuming it isn't, is it feasible to replace the chain and tensioner with the engine in situ?

 

FWIW there was evidence of either the chain or the tensioner hitting the cover when I dismantled the engine which was partly why I replaced both and repaired the gouge in the cover with a dab of MIG weld, touched up with a Dremel.

 

Rgds Ian

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Yes you can replace them without taking the engine out.

 

Check your sprockets.....if they are excessively worn they will trash a timing chain very quickly.

 

I always use Reynold solid pin chain from a bearing and transmission supplier.....this needs a joining link , the clip of which must be fitted the right way round. Never had a problem in many cars and many thousands of miles.

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These Chinese timing chains are also not the best...

Sometimes they have sharp edges that cut into the tensioner.

 

Normally the tensioner should not have much to work on

a new chain, its quite tight so it is a bit difficult to fit the

sprockets and are close to have no play when fitted.

 

Besides the Reynolds the German IWIS are very good.

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Thanks all for the replies - so my next question, if the engine doesn't have to come out, what does need to be removed? Is it a front scuttle and radiator out job?

 

Rgds Ian

 

In my short experience just about everything in front of the engine has to come off. The apron, radiator, engine bay cross bar, fan, steering drag link, fan extension with pulley. I didnt have the apron on so it only took me about an hour to take the timing cover off recently to fix a hole in the cover that was likely made with a broken tensioner.

 

Stan

Edited by foster461
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In my short experience just about everything in front of the engine has to come off. The apron, radiator, engine bay cross bar, fan, steering drag link, fan extension with pulley. I didnt have the apron on so it only took me about an hour to take the timing cover off recently to fix a hole in the cover that was likely made with a broken tensioner.

 

Stan

Yep that about sums it up, on a fully built car I would remove the top wing bolts back to the bulkhead so that you can open the wings out a bit to allow the beading to go outwards then it will clear the front panel and allow it to be lifted up and off, (Leave the ally strengthener bolted to the front panel and just remove the two bolts either end.

Stuart.

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Yes you can replace them without taking the engine out.

 

Check your sprockets.....if they are excessively worn they will trash a timing chain very quickly.

 

I always use Reynold solid pin chain from a bearing and transmission supplier.....this needs a joining link , the clip of which must be fitted the right way round. Never had a problem in many cars and many thousands of miles.

Just to be sure, would I be right in thinking that the clip should have the closed end facing the direction of travel?

 

Rgds Ian

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Just to be sure, would I be right in thinking that the clip should have the closed end facing the direction of travel?

Rgds Ian

That is correct......it is done that way so if it catches anything the open ends are always trailing so the clip is less likely to spring off.

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