aleda Posted June 30, 2015 Report Share Posted June 30, 2015 Hi Troops, Think I mentioned in one of my posts that there was a problem refitting the hardtop after Betty's body panels were removed in 2003 for respray. It's been idling in the garage ever since and I had set my mind to get it fitted for the winter months. Anyway whilst she was in garage for recent work I added it to the jobs list. Ordered new bolts but the long ones seemed too long? The thread was shot in the hard top and one of the captive nuts was no longer captive, although the bolt screwed in after some modification the captive nut went round and round so the hard top was still loose in one corner. To resolve the problem a 'slotted wedge' was made, this took up the slack and the hard top is solid. I must admit I thought, oh no the weathers changed and I'm stuck with the roof on. However it rained most of Sunday on the 110 mile Rally and when it did stop it was still quite pleasant in the car with both door windows down. The hard top is domed with white lining so it doesn't feel as claustrophobic as the soft top. Anyway I just posting this in case anyone else has a problem with captive nuts, I've attached a photo of 'the wedge' Long term I'm not sure how repair of the captive nuts could be achieved? Also the lining is grubby in parts, I have no idea what's behind the lining or what it's made of to know the best solution to clean it with? BTW the Kelvedon Rotary Rally was great fun, recommend it for next year Christine Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted June 30, 2015 Report Share Posted June 30, 2015 Hi Christine, if the lining is grubby then it may be that the captive nut can be sorted when you attack the lining. Once you have the lining out then the captive nut will reveal what is happening. I'm sure somebody will be along to inform you of the material and how to do it. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 30, 2015 Report Share Posted June 30, 2015 The two front captives if its a steel roof are a nut welded to a large plate that is spot welded to the underside of the front of the frame. I have managed to re-do the spot welds on one but then I have some purpose bent arms for a spot welder. You might be able to do it by drilling through the underside panel and with the plate clamped down weld through the hole to the plate with a MIG. Access can be gained by removing the furlex and then peel back the front of the headlining. That can also be cleaned with some spirit wipe. If its an Ally roof then its a bit more difficult as its a sprung clip with a nut in it and they very often pull through the ally which will need building back up with weld or a new plate TIG welded in. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mike3md Posted June 30, 2015 Report Share Posted June 30, 2015 I have some success reprinting the headlining with this: http://www.vinyldye.co.uk/All-Vinyl-Dye-Color-Sprays And before you ask, I did use the White! Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aleda Posted July 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2015 Thanks Stuart for the info, will store it in my 'to do' list, it is steel, had to google furlex and there isn't any, just rubber! Thanks Mike, I must say that product looks very impressive. Think I will order the cleaner and see how that goes first. Cheers, Christine Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tim hunt Posted July 1, 2015 Report Share Posted July 1, 2015 I swear by a good quality vinyl silk emulsion paint to refinish the hard top lining, both edge finishers and the strip above the tank board. It must be at least ten years now since I last did mine and they only require an occasional wipe over with a damp cloth and a little Cif to remain looking as new. Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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