Recovering seats

[Bully]

Well I'm going to have to bite the bullet and recover my seats.   I'm probably going to go for leather, replacing the diaphragm and crumbling foam.

 

Is this something "do-able" by the home repairer, or should I get it done by a pro?   Secondly, any tips or advice from anybody that has done it.

 

Thanks

 

Bully  :cool:

[jonlar]

Hi Bully, there was quite a good feature article in Practical Classics, probably late last year, if I've still got the issue, do you want photo-copies.   There's also a bit in Roger Williams' How to Restore a TR5, 250, 6 (I assume the 4's book covers this as well).   The foams are available from Moss, I bought what I thought was the foams for one TR6 seat and found it is for the pair.   John Skinner seems to have a very good reputationm and there's another company, I'll find out the name.   Thoroughly check the frames for cracks etc., repair/weld as necessary then repaint.   As far as I remember there's a "tongue" fron the stitched top panel comes through the foam and attaches at the bottom - maybe someone can confirm?

[Ade-TR4]

Recovering the seats is very rewarding, if you've got the time!

Be aware that when the covers come off you may find that the frames are a bit worse for wear, especially the tubular type, which is what yours sound to be. The thinner "L" section tends to rust or bend (B&Q do an exact copy of the "L" section, albeit in straight lengths that require bending!)

I had the covers made in leather and found that they just took lots of wrestling into position - The "How to restore..." books are invaluable and give a logical approach.

The diaphragm is easy but I would use some "gaffer tape" to help secure the joins on the webbings for the back: The metal clips supplied look like they could tear through the webbings after a while.

One tricky bit is stretching the long spring across the rear of the squab, without damaging the material - stout long-nosed pliers worked well.

After that, keep going round the peripehery, re-stretching the fit and re-clamping until you're happy with how taught and straight everything looks. Bear in mind that if you overdo one section too early, you may have to undo, which will probably leave a mark where the clip has to be removed.

 

that's my advice anyway!!! (My seats are the late TR4 type btw, and they took a full weekend to recover the pair. The frames took a while longer to repair and rebuild)

 

cheers

Adey

All the clips were available new from Moss when a did mine about 18/12 ago btw

[unclepete]

How easy to reprofile the edges to give a bit more lateral support?

[Andy Moltu]

It's not too tricky a job & a can of spray carpet adhesive is a very useful way of applying the contact adhesive.

 

You are right in replacing the rubbers and foams at the same time as the covers - they generally disintegrate when you take the seats apart anyway.

[Guest bob-men]

Bully

just to add to Ade's comment.Pulling on the long spring is sometimes easier if you attach a loop of thick cord to the hook and tie the loose ends to a piece of wood, which you can grasp in your hand.This enables to get a good pull and stretch the spring.It is strongly recommended that you put a thick piece of material over the spring, just in case it lets go and takes you eye out !! A gentle stretch is the answer, every time