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Bully

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About Bully

  • Birthday 05/22/1968

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  • Location
    Malmesbury

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  1. Hi Rob, do you know where the voltage stabiliser is on a TR4a? If it was part of the control box, that was removed when I converted from dynamo to alternator about 10 years ago. So why hasn't it over read during that time? Perhaps there is one hidden under the dash?
  2. I need a bit of help with my TR4a. Back in May, my temperature gauge and fuel gauge stopped working. I also started overheating, and more recently my overdrive has been slow to engage. I started with the gauges, which were receiving no power. It seems to have broken a wire, so I ran in a new power wire, which has restored working gauges. The overheating is proving more problematic. I have replaced the rad cap and the thermostat, but the temperature gauge still reads off the gauge, way hotter than normal. This is odd as the radiator is not blowing through the new cap, and the Kenton fan is
  3. Hi Scott, I had a similar problem last year in my Tr4A. Turned out to be a split HT cable hidden with the Distributer Cap. Took me 18 months to find. Sounds electrical to me. My suggestion would be to swap parts with a fellow enthusiast to narrow down where the fault is. Don't rule out anything which seems too simple. Good luck Bully
  4. Well that diagnosis was wrong. Went on a 100 mile tour with the guys from Glavon today and the problem was back, so I guess we can rule out the electronic ignition. However, we swapped the cap, ht leads and rotor, and that seemed to cure it. Will need a little more investigation. When I swapped the distributor cap last year, I didn't cut off the last end of each HT lead, so when fitted to the cap, a second hole was made to form a connection. I wonder if the old hole(s) are therefore shorting out and causing a misfire? Going to re-terminate each lead and see if that was the cause. Wa
  5. It was the electronic ignition. Just replaced the Pertronix sensor with a known good one, and all is well again. Thanks everybody for your help and suggestions. After scouring the Internet it would appear there can be numerous caused and remedies on all sorts of makes and models, so I'm just glad it didn't take me too long to solve mine
  6. Many thanks guys, this is all great stuff. Misfire under load, and when hot, happens at all rev ranges. I can change gear, but problem persists. Coil, rotor and cap all from distributor doctor, so don't see any issues there. K&Ns were cleaned last year, not sure when was the last time I checked the dash pots. Think tomorrow I will clean and check all the simple stuff, plugs, HT leads, cap, rotor, coil, dash pots, K&Ns, timing etc. If that fails, then it may be change back to points.
  7. Hi Alan, yes, ease off the throttle when under load, and the misfire goes away.
  8. Thanks guys. Forgot to add I replaced the coil, rotor, cap and plugs, so have also ruled them out. Looks like back to points I go.
  9. Hi guys, looking for some help with my 1966 TR4a, which has developed a misfire when hot and under load. The car underwent a rebuild about 6 years ago, including a full engine rebuild. All the water ways are like new, twin SUs, K&Ns, unleaded, 4-2-1 exhaust, thin belt conversion, lightened and balanced, Kenlowe fan, slightly bigger bore and Pistons, and electronic ignition. All ran fine for the first 5000 miles, but over the last year, she has started to misfire when hot. Hot being above normal operating temperature, but below the temperature for the Kenlowe to cut in. The misfire onl
  10. Does anybody know of, or can recommend a company to recondition period chrome static type seat belts? I need the clasps reconditioned (maybe need a new pin), and some coloured new webbing? Grateful for any suggestions.
  11. I have a TR4A reg no PYY45D, so I can't be too far from me - I'll have a look in the garage next door for you :0)
  12. I had a similar problem many years ago, which eventully resulted in my TR4A constantly overheating. Turned out to be a blockage between the No 4 cylinder (nearest the battery) My understanding goes that when you change the coolent, you need to drain the radiator, and also the engine block. Over the years, it would appear that most people only use the drain plug under the radiator, so sediment builds up in the block. With forward motion, this sediment goes to the back of the engine, and blocks the water ways. I fould I could actually take the drain tap out of the engine block, and
  13. Hi there, I think I was one of the first to order these stainless steel bumpers, and fitted them about 4 years ago. No scratches so far, and still a nice shine. Can't see me going back to Chrome somehow. I'm in Malmesbury if you fancy a drive down someday, not too far. Bully
  14. Hi Paul, I brought my TR4A way back in 1994, and drove it for ages. 5 years ago, I asked a friend to rebuild it for me. I made a long list of everything I wanted to do, body off respray, engine rebuild, suspension upgrade, brakes upgrade, leather interior, chasis blast and powder coat, the works. Cost me £20K, and the car is valued at £25K. The money is immaterial, as is the value. I have no intention of selling. If you fancy a drive out one day, come down to Gloucestershire and a Glavon meet, and I will show you the car and introduce you to Eric Mobley who did th
  15. Hi Westy, only a trickle from the drain tap does imply a blockage behind No4 cylinder (nearest the bettery). Take the tap out, and feed the thin end of a cable tie in at an angle towards the battery and have a rummage around. The cable tie is stiff enough to move some sediment, but not hard enough to do any damage. If you get a good flow, then keep flushing and you may be lucky. If you can't get a good flow, then i would recommend taking the head off and digging it out to get a good flow. Cheers Bully
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