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having reached the final hurdle of trying to start the engine after a complete rebuild I am struggling to get the engine to fire.

 

I have

 

engine at tdc

rotor arm pointing at number 1 cylinder

a good spark

pressurised fuel up to the metering unit

metering unit matches up with workshop manual (union number 6, the fuel hole in the rotating cylinder lines up when at tdc)

 

what I dont have is fuel from the metering unit to the injector

 

Is there a certain procedure needed when going for first time start up

 

any advice is welcome

 

cheers

 

graham

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How long have you been cranking the engine? When I restarted mine from dry I suspended all the injectors as high as I could get them then cranked the engine, plugs out and ignition disconnected, until they were all spraying. It then started first time after putting everything back.

 

Others' mileage might vary.

Edited by peejay4A
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Graham,

 

When i changed my MU last it took some cranking to get the air out of the injector lines.

 

I too couldn't get them going so I put them (paired) in three jam jars so I could see when the started putting out fuel.

 

Three started pretty quickly but the other three took some persuading, tapping and opening/closing the injectors to get them spraying a cone.

 

Good luck.

 

Snowy

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Remove sparks, disconnect the coil

disconnect airpipe to MU

pull choke full!

 

Remove injectors from manifold.

Open fuel connector at injector a bit, start until fuel comes

close connector try furthermore and hope fuel comes out of the injector

 

Proceed parallel or one after one with othe five injectors.

 

Take care with the fuel sprayed around, as long as it smells it might fire!

 

Bring all back to normal condition, take a coffee to get rid of the fuel everywhere and try a start

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Hi Graham

Last year after rebuilding my TR5 engine and on a Lucas system I had the same issue on first start up. I found the starter and battery could not crank the engine fast enough to bleed the injectors. I linked the battery to my euro box, revved up the euro which put enough power to spin the engine that little faster and it fired.

More recently after changing the pump for a newly refurbished Lucas pump I had the same issue, I used a £1 tin of easy start spraying it down the long air box got the engine to fire brefly doing this a few times it ran on a couple of cylinders then it gradually bled its self.

Cheers Sean.

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great stuff thanks for all the tips

 

I now have pressurised fuel at the injectors and I have put some easystart into the throttle bodies, it does want to start but I think I need the wife cranking it over while I get the injectors to pop one at a time

 

by the way its a brand new high amp battery and hi torque starter so she spins over very easy

 

cheers

 

graham

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When I did this I used a wooden block with six holes, put then injectors in with a piece of cardboard in front of them, then turned over till I could see all injectors firing in sequence.I had to do this for a while till they fired consistently. Initially they all fired but not consistently, ie sometimes 1/2 would miss.it was a new setup, pump, my etc.Took a while. This was after they were all bled.Even then when replaced the injectors still took 30 mins before she started. Done this before and always takes quite a while for a new system setup.I guess its down to luck as some seem to start more easily than others. Have you checked fuel pressure at MU is about 105 so ? When cranking ?

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I folded a rack out of some scrap alloy sheet, to hold all six, collect and dump the fuel into a container.

Instead of the Large Glass Jar, usually recommended, it lets you see which is working.

 

Posted a pic before: http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/45469-bleedin-metering-unit/&do=findComment&comment=359986

 

John

Edited by john.r.davies
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