McMuttley Posted March 26, 2015 Report Share Posted March 26, 2015 As previously mentioned, the lower internal lip of my hardtop into which the bracket is sandwiched (sorry no pic to hand) has separated slightly due the extreme forces of hardtop being clapped to bodywork - the latter being a fraction narrower than the hardtop would like. I wish to stop this in its tracks. I don't want to (have someone) spot weld as I assume this will mean a respray of those areas and my skills with a can of Signal Red paint are very dubious. Searching the worldlywideweb i note various industrial / trade offerings. Is there a good DIY option. Ideally something that squeezes pre-mixed out of a thin nozzle into the (cleaned up) gaps between the lip and the hardtop and holds the two elements together in perpetuity. Thanks as always. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted March 26, 2015 Report Share Posted March 26, 2015 Hi Austin, there are many industrial adhesives that will sort your problem but you need to use them correctly. Here is a reasonable adhesive at a lowish price that could do what you want http://www.lasaero.com/site/products/article?id=V043ILS8J Not sure how much the applicator costs though. Click on Paints/lubricants on the left to see more. Or there is always 'JB Weld' Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted March 26, 2015 Report Share Posted March 26, 2015 (edited) Hi Austin post a picture (again) of exactly what you are trying to bond. Something like Innotech ( used for sticking door skins and wings to modern stuff) may well be the answer. We (my sons and I)have used it very successfully to bond the complete rear end to a Sebring Sprite replica. (Effectively the whole outer boot and wings to the inner wings floor etc.. I can assure you it is never going anywhere! Product is Innotech Adheseal, comes in a tube like silicon so easy to apply. Iain Edited March 26, 2015 by iain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
McMuttley Posted March 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2015 Hi Iain, See attached. Looking at the pic, the 'pull' is not i/out as i thought, but fwds/bacwards. I can tweak that by hopefully adjusting the brackets below the capping, but i need to bond the two 'sheets' together. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
McMuttley Posted March 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2015 ps, ignore the rusty look, that is a thin film caused by the previous liner trapping moisture Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted March 27, 2015 Report Share Posted March 27, 2015 Hi Austin, The bent metal will need dressing to put it back where it belongs. The gap where the adhesive goes needs to be very very clean. How was the edge joined in the first place - spot welds, adhesive etc. Does the area need any extra support to stop it happening in the future (re-applying adhesive does not normally work) Obviously the rust/muck that is away from the adhesive site will not affect things but it looks as if the whole thing needs cleaning - a big winter job. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted March 27, 2015 Report Share Posted March 27, 2015 Austin FWIW that lip edge isnt actually attached to the side of the hardtop anyway. It is part of a channel that is spot welded at the very lower lip of the hardtop by the lower lip of the channel so I wouldnt worry about it, its not going anywhere. What has happened is as the bolt has been removed at sometime in the past it was obviously very tight and has twisted the bracket. Just keep driving and ignore it. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
McMuttley Posted March 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2015 Hi Roger When I installed the hardtop, a thin sort of vinyl liner covered all areas, so not sure whether these pieces were even connected then. The photo exaggerates the rust, it is no more than a slight colour - I have my W&D and rust sealer ready for the weekend - just need to kick the wife out of bed so that the hardtop can go on there ! A test patch sanding showed the rust to be no more than a thin surface colouring. As you can see where the metal sheets have peeled apart, the metal is very clean (aluminium or steel ? must check !) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
McMuttley Posted March 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2015 Thanks Stu - as I know you love installing hardtop rear screens, I will drive it up to Malvern with the top on and you can install one for me as a technical seminar !!! I already have your super seal, just need to find a screen that isn't warped ! After the bent and burned honeybourne mess, who do you recommend as a rear screen supplier - as I am thinking it is daft to do rust and line and then later change the screen ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted March 27, 2015 Report Share Posted March 27, 2015 If both surfaces are thoroughly clean and dry, JB Weld will do a good job. However, one has to mix together the contents of two tubes, then apply the mixture - from your description, that might be difficult in this case. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.