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Dipswitch bracket question


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Probably going to need some help from the post 60K LHD folks. I'm test fitting the LHS footwell side panel and the dip switch bracket. I got the front of the carpet panel lined up with the A post, scuttle and floor and then located the cage nuts for the bracket attachment. When I test fit the bracket it is overlapping the rubber pad. I was expecting that pad to be more or less parallel with the bracket.

 

How does yours look ?

 

 

IMAG0330_zpsgz1d8sew.jpg

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Does this help?

http://s223.photobucket.com/user/Rodbr/media/PA140088.jpg.html

Does your carpet have the door edge section folded over a piece of shaped Millboard if not a glued fold would then effectively move it back and into the correct position.

Rgds

Rod

Edited by Rodbr
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Thanks Rod, that is the shot I was looking for. You have a different switch to mine and my bracket doesnt have a large hole in it as the switch is surface mounted but the bracket is essentially the same.

 

My carpet has a rigid folded finished edge so I think this is as far rearward as it goes without overlapping the furflex. I will have to ponder this further.

 

Stan

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Stan, you'll likely have the later circular dipswitch which has a different bracket.They changed it as part of the 60K updates because on RHD cars the terminals were prone to arcing out out on the firewall. Sorry but I no longer have a late LHD car to help with a pic.

 

I seem to recall the LHD bracket could go either way around, or maybe the rubber pad isn't exactly where it needs to be.

 

Rgds,

 

Viv

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Stan, you'll likely have the later circular dipswitch which has a different bracket.They changed it as part of the 60K updates because on RHD cars the terminals were prone to arcing out out on the firewall. Sorry but I no longer have a late LHD car to help with a pic.

 

I seem to recall the LHD bracket could go either way around, or maybe the rubber pad isn't exactly where it needs to be.

 

Rgds,

 

Viv

 

That is correct Viv, I think the same switch is used on the TR4. I notice there is a rubberized pad between the terminals and the bracket.

 

I may have to undo the finished edge, get the carpet placed so that the pad and bracket are correct and then re-make the edge to align with the body.

 

Stan

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Hi Stan,

FWIW mine did not really fit until the carpet was formed into the depression . Bare in mine to avoid wear on the carpet the pad needs to be fairly close if you use it as a foot rest as many do. I do not know if mine is even close but I am happy with it and it is probably "best" fit on any case.

Personally I wouldn't shorten the carpet or you may end up short at none end or the other. Use a steamer to form the carpet into the shape and glued to the sidewall.(Make a hole template prior to gluing that conforms to the shape.) Use a narrow pointed thingy (metal scriber would be OK to locate the holes and trial fit the bracket. If you feel then the pad is obviously in the wrong position carefully unpick it and glue down with impact adhesive. You may find depending on carpet used that you need to make cuts or "darts" to use a dressmaking term as the carpet available is slightly thicker than originally used and does not form as easily. Small "v" cuts where the carpets creases and glued together make an invisible jount. Typically I made the cuts and then glued a piece of cotton material and the carpet edges together to strengthen the cut.

 

Unless you are a Concours fanatic I do not think a few millimetres either way is going to make that big a difference. I can not imagine that even at that stage of production that ST had millimetre perfect on every point. At best our cars are a restoration or a recreation they are not "Factory fresh"

 

NOTE: Be careful and try a area of carpet first by folding over. You may find with a sharp fold the weave opens up and at the leading edge you will be able to see the under layer. The thread count is significantly less on modern carpet and it is much more open o.e fine when flat but horrible when folded!!!!

Edited by Rodbr
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Not strictly relevant to this thread, but I purchased the rubber pad, along with the carpet set, but did not fit the pad, thinking that I would use the car

first, until wear marks on the carpet would show me exactly where to place the pad. Still waiting for the wear marks !

 

Bob.

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Hi Stan,

FWIW mine did not really fit until the carpet was formed into the depression . Bare in mine to avoid wear on the carpet the pad needs to be fairly close if you use it as a foot rest as many do. I do not know if mine is even close but I am happy with it and it is probably "best" fit on any case.

Personally I wouldn't shorten the carpet or you may end up short at none end or the other. Use a steamer to form the carpet into the shape and glued to the sidewall.(Make a hole template prior to gluing that conforms to the shape.) Use a narrow pointed thingy (metal scriber would be OK to locate the holes and trial fit the bracket. If you feel then the pad is obviously in the wrong position carefully unpick it and glue down with impact adhesive. You may find depending on carpet used that you need to make cuts or "darts" to use a dressmaking term as the carpet available is slightly thicker than originally used and does not form as easily. Small "v" cuts where the carpets creases and glued together make an invisible jount. Typically I made the cuts and then glued a piece of cotton material and the carpet edges together to strengthen the cut.

 

Unless you are a Concours fanatic I do not think a few millimetres either way is going to make that big a difference. I can not imagine that even at that stage of production that ST had millimetre perfect on every point. At best our cars are a restoration or a recreation they are not "Factory fresh"

 

NOTE: Be careful and try a area of carpet first by folding over. You may find with a sharp fold the weave opens up and at the leading edge you will be able to see the under layer. The thread count is significantly less on modern carpet and it is much more open o.e fine when flat but horrible when folded!!!!

 

I have that last problem already with the new carpet. Where the fold is made at the front of those kick panels, the backing is visible all the way down the edge. I'm hoping to bury it in the furflex or just live with it.

 

You may be correct Rod and once the carpet is fully pressed into the contours I will lose the .25 inch that I need to allow the pad to clear the bracket.

 

Stan

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Hi Stan.

Could try one of these and brush left and right to close up the nap.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-B-Shape-2-Side-Suede-Nubuck-Boot-Shoes-Cleaner-Shoe-Cleaning-Brush-/400514952399?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5d408d2ccf

 

Think of it as a "comb over" for the carpet folicle challenged. It will reduce the appearance slightly so the backing is not so obvious.

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Hi Stan.

Could try one of these and brush left and right to close up the nap.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-B-Shape-2-Side-Suede-Nubuck-Boot-Shoes-Cleaner-Shoe-Cleaning-Brush-/400514952399?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5d408d2ccf

 

Think of it as a "comb over" for the carpet folicle challenged. It will reduce the appearance slightly so the backing is not so obvious.

 

Nice, once I have fixed my personal grooming issues I could try it on the carpet.

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