Revolution Posted March 4, 2015 Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 Hi everyone Anyone got a serviceable choke cable for a 4A they want to move on? Regards, Nick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted March 5, 2015 Report Share Posted March 5, 2015 (edited) Hi Nick, what is wrong with your old one. My one suffered from worn lock positions so it would not stay in the 'pulled out' position (it would appear everybody uses a peg to hold it out.) The internal brass toothed rod can be filed to put an edge back on the teeth. Or even a new rod made from 6mm brass. There is a ridge running along the back to stop it over rotating. New cables are expensive - apprx £70. Do not throw your old cable away - you never know when you will be inspired to repair it. Roger Edited March 5, 2015 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted March 5, 2015 Report Share Posted March 5, 2015 +1 Also if the inner or outer cables are knackerd, then it is not difficult to graft new cable into the old fittings. Much better than fitting a modern type choke cable which always looks wrong. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Revolution Posted March 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2015 Roger / Bob Thanks for info'....yes they are expensive! The previous owner had shortened the inner cable so that it only just reached the trunnion and the when I pulled the choke knob recently, the cable came out of the trunnion.......all frayed and I can't thread the cable back through a) because it's a little too short and coz it's frayed So I thought I'd get a new one.....ouch!! Bob, haven't a clue how you graft a new inner cable on........is it straightforward? Nick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted March 5, 2015 Report Share Posted March 5, 2015 Hi Nick, pop along to your local Bike shop and get a brake cable that is longer than required. The end will be welded so will not fray. Cut the cable to length. Disassemble the choke cable - remove black spring clip, catch the 1/2 moon ratchet, pull out the cable. The cable is soldered into the brass locking rod. Remove the cable and remove the solder. This will expose a small hole where solder will flow through. The bike cable should fit into the brass rod. The cable may also be stainless steel but don;t panic the solder will bond around the multi strand stucture and grip it. Insert cable and solder. Re-assemble. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted March 5, 2015 Report Share Posted March 5, 2015 You took the words right out of my mouth !! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Revolution Posted March 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2015 Hey Roger Fantastic....will give it a go and let you know how I get on! Cheers, Nick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Revolution Posted March 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2015 Hi Roger Nearly dismantled ! For us dunces, can you explain how to "remove cable and solder" Does that mean apply a small drill to remove....? See attached image Nick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted March 5, 2015 Report Share Posted March 5, 2015 Hi Nick, I think the cable is done for Using a simple gas blow lamp heat the end were the cable is and using pliers pull out the broken bits. A coating of flux may help the heating process.the liquid solder. Having removed the wire reheat the end and when the solder is starting to flow give the brass rod a flick to expel - be careful of flying solder. You may well find the hole on top opens up. Have you got a pic of the teeth on the other side. if they looked rounded give them a touch with a file. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Revolution Posted March 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2015 Morning Guys Well, after plenty of heat and wriggling at frayed ends, their doesn't appear to be any solder ! Think I may have a slightly different fitting as there is no 1/8 hole to be seen Looks to me like a "pressed fitting" to secure the cable See thumbnail for close up Any ideas? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Revolution Posted March 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2015 Thumbnail attached Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted March 7, 2015 Report Share Posted March 7, 2015 Hi Nick, yes indeed you have the swagged end fitting. You could drill/grind away the depressions and pull the cable out. Fit new bike cable and introduce your own swage dimples. That solves th eproblme of soldering Stainless steel. The bike cables have a swagged end a weld end. The welded end goes to the carbs. Cut cable to length. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanG Posted October 15, 2015 Report Share Posted October 15, 2015 I've acquired a new choke cable with a damaged outer cable. Anyone got any tips on replacing the outer? Alan. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Geko Posted October 16, 2015 Report Share Posted October 16, 2015 I've acquired a new choke cable with a damaged outer cable. Anyone got any tips on replacing the outer? Alan. bring it to a bike shop they will place it Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 16, 2015 Report Share Posted October 16, 2015 Hi Alan, if the bike shop can't help then more info needed. Usually the outer casing is a spiral of metal. Has it been crushed or simply broken - a picture would help. If crushed then you need to re-crush it at 90'.to get it roughly back to shape. Then insert a thick wire, to use as a former, and gently hammer it back to shape. if it is broken then it could be scrap. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanG Posted October 16, 2015 Report Share Posted October 16, 2015 Thanks folks, Friend of mine (not me, honest) managed to short it out on the solenoid. Must have been red hot as inner unravelled and then broke when being removed. Outer has been distorted in a couple of places. I've straightened the outer but it looks a bit unsightly although the new inner slides fine. Probably not worth the risk of un-swaging the outer from the alloy tube of the end fitting and then finding there is not enough alloy tube left to re-swage it. Bearing in mind what these things cost. Alan. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 16, 2015 Report Share Posted October 16, 2015 Hi Alan, if, as you say it is working, then leave it alone. You are right about the outer/body swaging - don't go there. So as to make my old outer cable look a little neater I covered it in black heat shrink sleeving. I also stops it shorting out. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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