matttnz Posted January 23, 2015 Report Share Posted January 23, 2015 Quick question re: fueling on hot days/traffic (NZ's in the middle of an awesome summer, though I realise that's not going to generate much sympathy currently...) CR series PI w a Bosch fuel pump. Runs like a pig when in caught in stop/start traffic and hot (has an Revington fan so "hot"= fan on and just over normal). Main symptom is hesitation on initial acceleration that improves considerably after a short run at normal speeds. Feels like its missing on a cylinder temporarily then improves. Can the Bosch pumps also get some vapourisation or is this something different? Do TR6s just not like modern traffic conditions? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kevo_6 Posted January 23, 2015 Report Share Posted January 23, 2015 Hi Matt, bit nippy here. Enjoy your summer. Do you have braided injection pipes? As I have read that these can cause fuel vaporisation. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
matttnz Posted January 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2015 (edited) Nah. Original nylons. Heard Europe's nippy. On the other hand, any visitors most welcome Edited January 23, 2015 by matttnz Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kevo_6 Posted January 23, 2015 Report Share Posted January 23, 2015 Uugh, great pic, now i'am depressed. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
matttnz Posted January 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2015 If it's any consolation we get our share of wet in your summer...and there's a good reason why NZ's so green Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graze Posted January 23, 2015 Report Share Posted January 23, 2015 Matt Same car, same hemisphere, same fuel pump, no electric fan Car never overheats even in traffic ( temps up to mid to high 30's) Previous owner told me to beware Never let it get below 1/4 full Never had a problem How much fuel are you running Graze Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Collins Posted January 23, 2015 Report Share Posted January 23, 2015 I've had something like this with a failing alternator, the bus voltage drops with all the loads on at idle. Can you measure the voltage at the pump when hot idling? Ideally with a proper DMM, I don't think the dash voltmeter responds quickly enough or is that accurate. Good luck, Mike. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Moltu Posted January 23, 2015 Report Share Posted January 23, 2015 Can occur however worth checking the fuel pressure, supply voltage and the fuel lines for blockage or restriction before binning it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jean Posted January 23, 2015 Report Share Posted January 23, 2015 Be aware that a Bosch pump might be able to pump more fuel around than the tank outlet can supply. Further they are not designed to work with pre-filters. If you have fitted one it has to be high debit and non restrictive. As mentioned by Andy they draw more current so a heavy supply with relay is the advised. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Goswell Posted January 23, 2015 Report Share Posted January 23, 2015 Having overcome cavitation around the pump, Lucas in my case, by upgrading the power feed I've only experienced cavitation in the engine bay. Fitted a Kenlowe fan, which I use only in traffic jams, I've not had a problem since. Despite the hottest summer some time back in the distant past. Recently changed the rad and cleaned out a water way in the block and now the car runs cold, cant win. Also changed fuel lines to stainless and no difference. I'm running without a rad cowl so that more cool air can circulate. Have changed the thermostat to a winter one as need the heater to work.....wish I was running a summer one !!!!!! Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
matttnz Posted January 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2015 Thanks guys: The engine itself isn't overheating as such (AK temps never up to Brisbane's insanity-dunno how you cope Graze, I'd spontaneously combust!). Seems to be more that when I'm stuck in traffic it runs ugly after awhile. Fuel tank filling doesn't seem to be related Fuel pressure measures ok New alternator (70A now) after the original failed after 40y of faithful service (to the previous owners...) The rough running is nowhere as bad as that was. Though it might be that there's not enough wiring getting through the old loom to the new pump power feed. The dash voltmeter measured low prior to the old alternator giving up the ghost. It's a reliable 13V now, 12V when idling. Things don't improve when I shut off the radio which is fairly power hungry...(no comments about the 6 soundtrack please-I like both options) I wired in a relay-didn't seem to make a huge difference but it does draw a pretty impressive current. It might be that I didn't run a heavy enough gauge wire but it is about double what the old wires were. I should check the ground again. Food for thought. I'll have a look at the return flow and remove any filters. Might be an issue w my pump supply & that it's not as good as I thought it was. Or maybe an HT lead is stoofed in a way that is unmasked over a certain temp... Cheers MT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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