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Idle measuring valve on inlet manifold: where to find?


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I need another "idle measuring valve" which sits at the front of the PI inlet manifold. Has anybody such a valve for sale or can anybody tell me where I could buy one?

Thanks for your help!

Wilfried

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I was going to bid on the ebay item, I've fancied setting up a second bleed valcpve to see if it smoothes the idle when hot.

 

Don't want to compete with a forum member though! So let me know if you're going to bid Wilfred and I'll leave it alone.

 

Steve

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Hi Roy and Steve,

Thanks for your help! I have now put in a bid on Ebay.Bid runs for two more days...

I intend to put in the second valve at the rear end of the balance tube close to cylinderhead.

Will take some more weeks until I can report on the result, because we are also installing a "underslung" throttle mechanism.

The cylinders 5 and 6 got always too little air (but the normal quantity of fuel) so that the too rich mixture did not well ignite. As I have a split exhaust (right one for cylinders 1,2 & 3, left for 4,5 & 6), I can feel it at the temperature of the end tube: the left is luke warm when the right is hot!

Wilfried

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Steve,

I am obviously not the only one to bid...

Will see. I'm not going to bid very high. Will rather machine one of those valves myself or go to shop to have one made. In the second case maybe I should order several examples, specially if they are made by a NC machine. Do you think there are many TR enthousiasts interested in buying one?

Wilfried

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On the subject of the "idle measuring valve":

I found the inside of the valve and the bore to the block quite dirty: a black deposit. This deposit must have come through the rubber tube from the big black air distribution box. On the bottom of the box there were about 1-2 ounces of motor oil. This oil must have come from the top of the engine (rocker cover) through the "breather and flame trap" into the distribution box.

I have two questions:

- Would it not be better to have the idle measuring valve breath directly from the surrounding air, perhaps through a little filter? This air is certainly cleaner than what it gets trough the rubber tube from the black box.

- There seems to be no efficient oil-vapour and oil-dropplet trap inside the rocker cover. (I don't remember when I removed it last time how it looks inside, and now that it is finally oil-tight to the cylinderhead, I do not want to remove it just to see.)

- Is there any more efficient oil-trap available as replacement to the "breather and flame trap"? A trap which could be removed and emptied from time to time, before the oil runs into the back box.

Wilfried

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On the subject of the "idle measuring valve":

I found the inside of the valve and the bore to the block quite dirty: a black deposit. This deposit must have come through the rubber tube from the big black air distribution box. On the bottom of the box there were about 1-2 ounces of motor oil. This oil must have come from the top of the engine (rocker cover) through the "breather and flame trap" into the distribution box.

I have two questions:

- Would it not be better to have the idle measuring valve breath directly from the surrounding air, perhaps through a little filter? This air is certainly cleaner than what it gets trough the rubber tube from the black box.

- There seems to be no efficient oil-vapour and oil-dropplet trap inside the rocker cover. (I don't remember when I removed it last time how it looks inside, and now that it is finally oil-tight to the cylinderhead, I do not want to remove it just to see.)

- Is there any more efficient oil-trap available as replacement to the "breather and flame trap"? A trap which could be removed and emptied from time to time, before the oil runs into the back box.

Wilfried

Essentially if you want to do that then you need to go down the catch tank route.

Stuart.

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If you cannot find an original idle air valve then internet search for "needle valve bass" you will find something suitable.

 

You try http://www.tech-hose.co.uk/browse_product.aspx?mode=level4&level5=30758&level4=30754&level3=30748&level2=30639&level1=30246&stockistown=False

 

Where a possibly suitable valve is < £15. You could either thread the throttle body to take the valve or file down/of the threads of the new valve to about 0.48" when it will push fit like the original.

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Wilfred

If you decide to go down the needle valve route (which is a sensible option) take a look at the 'Parker colorflow' valve.

You will find options on good old ebay, as well as via the more usual industrial outlets.

 

I have used these in industrial applications, they are robust and well over engineered

 

The 'Color' bit refers to coloured rings under the rotating valve knob, which allows the user to control the position of the needle by eye.

 

You will guess from the spelling of the word color, that they are from the USA, but are widely available all over Europe and of course the continental UK

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Stuart,

Where can I find more on the "catch tank route"?

Is this -oil in the intake track- a normal thing with TR6?

Wilfried

Sorry, Stuart, for my naive question. Google explained me that catch tanks are a very normal thing to avoid oil to go into the intake manifold.

Interesting to see how they try to trap customers who look just at the price of the tank:

- US catch tank for $ 15.99 .............. plus £ 59.99 (!) for shipping

- China catch tank for $ 31.49 .............free shipping

 

All these tanks look very professional with the glass tube to show how full they are. Do you know if the have inside an efficient grid or something to catch small droplets or even vapours?

 

Wilfried

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We have been round and round on the catch tank subject quite a few times and it often gets very heated as there is a multitude of opinions on which are best and which are shiniest! My personal preference is this one http://www.racetorations.co.uk/page20.html part number TEN001 bottom of the page. It just does it. I have fitted quite a few and been very happy with the results, large bore piping that gets it all away quickly. .

Stuart.

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