Alan Cochrane Posted May 11, 2014 Report Share Posted May 11, 2014 Hi Everyone Just returned from a blast around the Kingdom Of Fife with the local car club. Taking out the GT6 on these occassions results in only one thing-the next list of "to do" jobs. I'd been experiencing an intermittent loss of power on one of the three main fused circuits and also a chattering noise from the passenger side rear. I checked the fuse and it checked out OK, so I decided it had to be a lack of spring pressure between the fuse box blades and the fuse-wrong! Anyway after a bit of roadside fiddling I changed the fuse and hey presto the problem was solved along with the mysterious chattering noise. Once home I had a good look at the fuse-the caps were tight and the electrical continuity was fine. It must have had a dodgy internal connection which broke down once the fuse warmed up. The mysterious chattering noise?-the long forgotten and bypassed night dimming relay. It was bouncing in and out as the fuse connection started to break down. So the moral of this story is-if you're having a similar circuit failure change the fuse even if it looks and checks out OK. Condiitions can change after the passage of current warms up the element. Hopefully this will be of help to someone else. Cheers Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted May 11, 2014 Report Share Posted May 11, 2014 Hi Alan, The current available glass fuses are Crapilicaoius and like you say only fail when hot so difficult to daignose when the fuse checks out cold. Resultant action at the first sign of an electrical issue change fuses. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jimcwestie Posted May 11, 2014 Report Share Posted May 11, 2014 The first run of the year in my TR6 the overdrive not working. Check the connections all looked good and fuses and found nothing wrong. Checked again using the multimeter and one of the glass fuses was faulty. The fuse looked perfect. I just thought I was just unlucky. I have now changed all the fuses as a safety precaution. Jim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted May 12, 2014 Report Share Posted May 12, 2014 Where do we go for quality fuses? I am bound to get caught by this one. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted May 12, 2014 Report Share Posted May 12, 2014 (edited) Hi Richard, Don't think there's a simple answer to this other than to carry extra fuses, can't be that many manufacturers and probably made to a price with limited QA. i bought a box off ebay and although I now use a fuse checker even of fuse wire is visible even this doesn't mean it has continuity. e.g http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Glass-fuses-automotive-fuses-120pc-assortment-kit-5amp-30amp-AST21-/141273829466?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item20e493905a Can you imagine going back to any company like Holden, Autosparks, etc to complain about blowing fuses. The first reaction would be to ask about electrical faults on your car whilst stifling a laugh probably. Just accept that it is more likely that a fuse is the source of the electrical issue. Chrome caps and dry solder joints are my diagnosis. You could try heating them with a hot air gun whilst testing continuity to see if they fail. Personally I just accept it as one more of the joys of running a classic. The biggest concern I have is failure cause, Hmmmmm! was it the fuse or is there something lurking that I haven't found? rgds Rod Edited May 12, 2014 by Rodbr Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted May 12, 2014 Report Share Posted May 12, 2014 (edited) I found that some if these aren't even soldered. The fuse link is simply folded over the end if the glass tube and the cap pushed on. Guaranteed to fail sooner or later. Sooner in my case. Edited May 12, 2014 by peejay4A Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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