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Alan Cochrane

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About Alan Cochrane

  • Birthday 06/14/1963

Profile Information

  • Location
    Kirkcaldy, Fife
  • Cars Owned:
    Triumphs(GT6+TR250),Jags(E-Type)& Porsches(RS60 Spyder)
    -6 Cylinder Heaven. Skiing, DIY, Socialising down the local and generally resisting growing up!

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  1. Dave Thanks for the info. That means that my modified manifold and also the one on my GT6 for the past 32 years is a Vitesse manifold. As far as I know the one that came with the car was original and was still sporting Strombergs when I bought it. My GT6 was built in 1971 the same year as Vitesse production ended. Triumph probably used up any remaining stock on other models where possible. Every day's a school day! Cheers Alan
  2. Sorry for the confusion over the image. It is a GT6 manifold but not mine unfortunately. I was being lazy since I didn't have an image of mine to hand. I only used it to illustrate the different carb mounting flanges. The saloon manifold will not fit because it's sloped upwards towards the carbs to counteract the engine being canted over by 9degrees IIRC. I have the sandwich plates but sideways space is a bit limited once you add in the air filters and fuel pipe. I have now managed to make the sandwich plates redundant by having the inlet holes bored out to 1.75 inches and here's the proof:- I had to to carefully measure all around the rear of the flanges to ensure there was enough "meat" to allow the enlargement.As you can see there was. This manifold rather puts my existing one to shame. It was only £35 off Ebay and someone has spent a lot of time polishing it up! Cheers Alan
  3. Well I've not managed to do anything yet because we've now bought a holiday home that needs some TLC. However tomorrow will be a garage day as will next Tuesday so happy days are back, at least temporarily. In the meantime my rebuild kit has arrived from Burlen. I have managed to get my spare inlet manifold machined out to accept the HS6 carbs directly. The inlet ports on my manifold have now been enlarged from 1.5 to 1.75 inches. Has anyone else done this in order to get rid of the sandwich adaptor plates? The machine shop even smoothed out the inner casting, all for £30. The manifold is an odd setup with only two stud fixings available for the original stromberg carbs- The carb mountings are even different shapes for some reason. Anyway I will hopefully start the strip down tomorrow. Cheers Alan
  4. Hi Everyone Thanks for the advice and I agree with most of it. I also use colourtunes(2 of), a flow meter and gas analyser. I’ve already found one air leak at the servo vacuum outlet and the rear most carb jet does not return to it’s choke off position when the choke is pushed all the way back in. So two reasons for poor idling already. I’ve ordered a full rebuild kit from Burlen and new vacuum hose so it’ll be interesting to see what difference that makes. The carbs are a bit of a Frankenstein. The bodies, float chambers and jets are from a 2500S saloon and the bells and pistons from a Rover SDI. Reason being the very tight under bonnet space available for the front carb. Even with this setup I had to cut down the dashpot necks and shorten the dampers! The piston springs are probably wrong as well coming from the SDI, so I’ve also ordered red springs from Burlen. Anyway plenty to be getting on with over the winter. Thanks again Alan
  5. Hi Everyone I'm looking for a bit of advice on what is considered the best needles for HS6 carbs fueling a tuned 2.5 six. The engine has a gas flowed "stage 2" head, fast road cam and a SS tubular extractor manifold. The carbs have BAE needles fitted. This set-up has been in my GT6 for the last twenty plus years and has generally been good although I've never managed to get the idle speed down below 900rpm. I've finally decided to rebuild the carbs and I'm now wondering if these are the best needles for this setup. I'm sure I'm not the only one running this setup, so all advice gratefully received. Cheers Alan
  6. Hi Everyone I'm currently rebuilding the Brake Servo I fitted to my GT6 30 years ago. It was salvaged from an MGB-does this make me a bad person? Anyway I have got stuck at the point where I have to remove the plastic guide for the rod in the master cylinder. It has so far resisted all persausive attempts to remove it. I suspect the accummulated crud buildup over the last 45years may have something to do with it. Frustratingly the repair kit does not include this item, so I need to try and save it for reuse rather than press the nuclear button. I thought as a next step I could drill a small hole in it and tap it round with a small drift. Any ideas? Cheers Alan C
  7. I've had a high torque starter on my GT6 since fitting a stainless steel extractor manifold circa 2000. Can't be any more precise since I can't find the receipt although I think the warranty may have expired by now. I only fitted one because the original starter would not fit between the bellhousing and the new downpipes. Anyone else had this problem? It's done approximately 15k miles in that time and never missed a beat. It's also much lighter than the old unit which is a huge bonus if you need to fit/remove it multiple times. I had this hassle with the E-Type after the flywheel had been skimmed. Cheers Alan
  8. Thanks for the replies everyone. Stuart Do Overdrive Repair Services do gearboxes as well? I’m assuming ORS is the same company? Cheers Alan
  9. Hi Everyone I've not been on the TR Forum for a good while, mainly due to other car commitments but now I'm looking to do some work on my TR50 resto. I have a 2.5S saloon gearbox with J Type overdrive that I intend to install in my GT6. This would be a straight swap since I have been running it with an identical unit for nearly 30 years. This leaks profusely and is of unknown mileage, but still has an excellent shift. Once this swap is done I intend to have the ex-GT6 box rebuilt and eventually use it to replace the non overdrive unit currently fitted in the TR250. I'm looking to have the rebuild done by a local company since I'd like to be able to deliver it personally rather than risk using a courier. I've been asked the same questions -availability of spare parts for both the gearbox and overdrive. I'm not sure about the gearbox but it sticks in my mind that there is a company that rebuilds overdrives, or am I having a senior moment? Ideally I'd like to have the same company rebuild both and source the parts themselves. Any recommendations please for both parts suppliers and also rebuilders? Cheers Alan
  10. I know this is an old thread but I noticed that at the foot of the page advertising the second TR5 was a nice looking GT6Mk2 for sale for at an eye watering £19,995. The advert just shows you what crap can be spouted by supposed "experts":- "There are only 28 MK2 GT6’s surviving in the UK and it is without doubt a far prettier car than the high volume MK3 with MK1 looks with MK3 mechanicals these are the ones to own, ever better if they have a lovely history to them" I think there are rather more than 28 UK cars left and the build numbers for the three marks were roughly the same. I'm disappointed to only have the ugly, high volume Mk3. I doubt I can even give it away now! Cheers Alan
  11. Gents Thanks for your replies. Unfortunately this does not signal the start of my TR250 engine rebuild. I've got several ancillary parts-water pump and mounting blasted and ready for painting hence the question. I've decided that I'm going to remove as many of the smaller parts first and repair and paint them before starting on the big things. This will hopefully ease me into the project without to much pain. I've also managed to secure two Lucas 9H horns complete with brackets for less than £20 on that well known auction site-a bit of a result when they're mostly for sale for around £100 per pair. These are also ready for painting. Finally I secured a set of front brake callipers for £30 which I've totally rebuilt and painted. They look very shiny in gold and I'm thinking they would look nice on the mantle piece instead. Not sure the wife would agree though. So I'm slowly progressing but still some way to go yet! Cheers Alan
  12. Hi Everyone What colour should the engine block be or rather what finish:- Gloss Black, Satin Black or Matt Black. Cheers Alan
  13. Thanks for the replies. Fortunately all the offending scratches are light and should polish out OK. Frost's list their kit as out of stock at the moment, but I'll check back regularly. Alan
  14. Hi Everyone Can anyone recommend a good scratch remover for glass. There are a few annoying scratches on both the E-Type's windscreen and the GT6's door glass which I'd dearly love to be shot of. Cheers Alan
  15. I have those HS6 carbs and the brass outlet is for a crankcase breather. On the six cylinder engines there is an outlet pipe on the rocker box which connects to a tee piece via a rubber tube. From the tee piece further rubber tubing connects to the brass outlet on each carb. There is normally a plastic bush that is sandwiched between the brass outlet and rubber tube. Interestingly E-Types had a similar system fitted from 1961 onwards. It's also supposed to prevent excessive gas pressure building up in the sump by way of the carb depression acting as a suction pump. Easy enough job to blank off if this isn't a standard fitment. Cheers Alan
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