Peter Cobbold Posted April 26, 2014 Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 Good cone sprays from 1&2 but not checked the others, will check the others tomorrow. Thanks. Fingers crossed !! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kevo_6 Posted April 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2014 I have just checked the other injectors & all have a good cone apart from no 6 which I asume still needs bleeding. If I pull the nib of the injector fuel comes out. Should still fire on 5 cyls though surely. Checked fuel pressure and and its just 100psi. Hope to take fuel pump & prv off tomorrow evening & send off to Neil. I could not do anything Sunday as I broke my toe to add to my woes. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
roy53 Posted April 29, 2014 Report Share Posted April 29, 2014 KICKING THE CAR I ASSUME Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kevo_6 Posted April 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2014 KICKING THE CAR I ASSUME Now that did make me laugh. ;-) still got another Big toe to kick the car with. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted April 29, 2014 Report Share Posted April 29, 2014 ?????????????????? Correct spark..........butterflies OK...........injectors spraying. It must start. What are the injectors spraying? has someone put water the tank ! We dont have compression tests, but if the valves are opening....It cant be the cam/crank timing as it ran before. Good luck with the MU and pump. Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kevo_6 Posted April 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2014 Cheers Peter, While the pump is away I will do a compression test, at least that may give us a bit more to go on. So frustrating l just can't fathom it. Drained the tank too tonight in prep for pump removal and it looks clean and its fresh v power. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted April 29, 2014 Report Share Posted April 29, 2014 Guess you are keeping the injectors facing downward ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kevo_6 Posted April 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2014 Yes Neil or should I have them facing up? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted April 29, 2014 Report Share Posted April 29, 2014 Get ready for the HSE bunch but yes and tap on the side or use an airline,my money is on muck inside them / filter/tank Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kevo_6 Posted April 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2014 Hi Neil. Thanks for the tip, the more I think about it its obvious as holding downwards will still trap the air.I must concentrate harder. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kevo_6 Posted May 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 (edited) While my fuel pump & prv are away for rebuild I thought I would tinker in the garage tonight and assuming my new Gunson compression gauge is correct, I think I may have major problems. Readings are as follows. Cold with WOT & dry. 1 = 58 psi 2 = 58 3 = 76 4 = 72 5 = 65 6 = 30 These readings seem extremely low to me, they can't be right can they? I had I look through the plug holes at the valves and pistons with my boroscope all seems ok apart from no6 valves being oilyish. Does this mean an engine rebuild or head rebuild, what shall i do next. Help !!!!!!!!!!!! Edited May 8, 2014 by Kevo_6 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted May 8, 2014 Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 (edited) Kevo, Yes very low indeed - if the units on the gauge are psi . You did give the engine a good spin, all plugs out, wot. 150-ish psi would be a decent value. Try spoonful of oil in the bores - if the readings go up suspect rings or bores. But you dont mention the engine burning oil so I very much doubt rings/bore are the cause of the low readings.  Camshaft??? - timing or lobes worn or 'bad'. Not enough air in means not enough to compress!! - measure valve lifts at expected cam peak position.  Now you have something solid to work on - look on the bright side!!  Peter  Peter Edited May 8, 2014 by Peter Cobbold Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kevo_6 Posted May 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 (edited) Thanks Peter, I will try with oil next & report back. How do I measure valve lift with a dial gauge? Edited May 8, 2014 by Kevo_6 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted May 8, 2014 Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 (edited) Dial gauge ( = DTI - dial test indicator) held by magnetic clamp to head, or on a stud, button on the valve: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/power/cm201a.htm Your cam lobes must be prettty shot to give such low compressions- you might be able to measure lack of lfit with a ruler!! Â Dont have the spec on the TR6 cam to hand - someone will be along who has. Â If the cam is duff, the engine swallows less air so the inlet depression will be less - ie the manifold runs nearer atmospheric pressure. And that sets the MU to give a rich mixture, maybe too rich to fire. Thats not an MU fault I hasten the add !! Â What I dont understand, looking back at your original posts, is why it went off so suddenly. That doesnt smell like cam. But the compression readings are a really good lead. Summat's up there. Â Peter Edited May 8, 2014 by Peter Cobbold Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kevo_6 Posted May 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 (edited) Thanks Peter, very helpful. The sudden change is the thing that really puzzle's me too. When I looked at the valves with my boroscope they seem to be opening quite a bit as I could easily see the seats OK but it's difficult to determine distance's with the scope. The no6 is a bit of a worry being the lowest, could this be leaking valve stems. The thing should still fire though surely? Edited May 8, 2014 by Kevo_6 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted May 8, 2014 Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 I think you are barking up the wrong tree here , has the valve clearance changed over time? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kevo_6 Posted May 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 Hi Neil, no change in valve clearance. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted May 8, 2014 Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 Then you need to pull the head and get it refreshed,valves checked etc Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kevo_6 Posted May 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 Thanks Neil, if I pull the head will I also have an indication that the block etc. Also needs a refresh i.e. bores scored, rings gone etc. As if so it would pay me to have the lot done in one hit as opposed to getting the head sorted & then finding out the rest of it is bu$$ered. If you know what I mean? Or am I jumping ahead of myself? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted May 8, 2014 Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 (edited) Kevo If you can do it ? the block maybe ok ? if you have good oil pressure the rest can be done with the engine in situ,the head of will tell you all. Edited May 8, 2014 by ntc Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kevo_6 Posted May 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 OK Neil, off with her head. Oil pressure when really hot drops to about 30psi about 60 when cold so not brilliant but OK ish I think. Car has done 78000 gen miles. Fingers crossed its just the head that needs sorting. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted May 8, 2014 Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 At what rpm Kev? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kevo_6 Posted May 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 (edited) Its been a long time since I've driven it now Neil but say if I was doing 60 mph in top it would be about 35 ish psi and tick over about 20 really hot, tick over cold 60psi. Never heard any noticeable rattles though. Edited May 8, 2014 by Kevo_6 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted May 8, 2014 Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 (edited) Car has done 78000 gen miles. That's interesting. Between 38k and about 100k I had three OE pistons fail, by cracking across the top side to side ( right angles to crank) and a second crack out to the oil drain slot from the centre. Each time the sign was subtle, a slight misfire and almost invisible smoke from the exhaust. Never found why - a metallurgist ruled out detonation or preigntion. Really sharp clean fractures right through the crown. So worth having a really close look at the piston crowns for hairline cracks.  Peter  I finally fitted six new pistons, shells and thrusts - ran fine to 180k when rebore needed. Edited May 8, 2014 by Peter Cobbold Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kevo_6 Posted May 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 Will do Peter. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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