peejay4A Posted March 24, 2014 Report Share Posted March 24, 2014 Progress . When you've established that your TDC mark is in the correct place (hopefully) you need to set the proper advance using a timing light at 800 rpm to ensure that the advance weights in the distributor aren't operating. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kevo_6 Posted March 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2014 Thanks Pete. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted March 24, 2014 Report Share Posted March 24, 2014 You have answered your question Kevo look at the dizzy clamp plate is it flat? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kevo_6 Posted March 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2014 Hi Neil I'am sure it looked pretty straight, I will have a closer look tomorrow evening. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted March 24, 2014 Report Share Posted March 24, 2014 See PM Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kevo_6 Posted March 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2014 I have replied to your pm. Thanks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted March 24, 2014 Report Share Posted March 24, 2014 Good point from Neil. I've had a warped clamp plate and with it you can never be sure that the distributor won't turn inadvertently. A little judicious dressing with a hammer can sort it, with care because if I recall it's stepped. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted March 24, 2014 Report Share Posted March 24, 2014 (edited) Kevo, Good to hear its going in the right direction. When setting timing by turning the disy do it at tickover rpm - you might have to reduce air flow to keep rpm down. If the revs rise above about 1000 the centrifugal advance kicks in: you dont want that. Once you have a good tdc you can check the whole timing curve with a strobe light, but keep well clear of the fan! Peter Edited March 24, 2014 by Peter Cobbold Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kevo_6 Posted March 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2014 Thanks Pete & Peter Spoke to Neil (NTC) tonight and he has giving me some very helpful advice, so tonight I took the dizzy off and yes the plate was twisted, so I have straightened that and refitted the dizzy. Visually a better fit now, also bought a new clamp bolt today and fitted that. I will redo the timing tomorrow evening (hopefully) and will let you know how I get on. Thanks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Pete R Posted March 26, 2014 Report Share Posted March 26, 2014 Kevo  Are you convinced it is pinking and not big ends? I have just been through a similar experience even getting garages and experts to listen and they all thought it was pinking caused by timing of the MU or ignition, as it only happened under loads.  In desperation I checked the big end shells and they were really worn causing the rattle. Changed them and rattle is eliminated and oil pressure obviously much higher. Do you get any rattle on start up, as that is another sign?  Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kevo_6 Posted March 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2014 Hi Pete No rattle on start up, I have had some success with the timing and the pinking is starting to go. I took the dizzy off and the clamp plate was twisted. If things dont improve I will delve deeper into the depths of the engine . For the moment though i will persist with the timing. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kevo_6 Posted April 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2014 Last weekend i went to take her out for a test drive and getting her running better for the new forest run. The starter just clicks, so that put pay to the run. Stripped and cleaned all connections etc during the week and she started 1st turn yesterday. Took her out for a spin and still not running right, on the way back home she started getting progressively worse and then she just stopped. Just would not fire up again, changed plugs, points, condenser and coil on the roadside & still nothing. So I got my wife to tow me home. I have checked fuel is coming out of 1&2 injectors cone spray, fuel pressure just over 100psi while cranking. Just refuses to fire at all, I have checked a plug against the head and its sparking. Almost ready to throw the towel in as I just can't work out why things keep changing. It does seem to turn over quicker but is that because its not firing. What shall I try next? Many thanks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted April 13, 2014 Report Share Posted April 13, 2014 You've got fuel and sprk when cranking on the starter. So it might be turning over quicker because its firing OK until you release the ig switch to kill the feed to the starter. The spark may then die. So to test, try 'hot wiring' from battery live to coil, taking off the feed form ig switch. Try again , but beware you can only stop the engien by removing the hot-wire. Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kevo_6 Posted April 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2014 Thanks Peter, i will give it a go. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kevo_6 Posted April 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 Hi Today I thought I would start from the beginning, I found true TDC with a piston stop & the mark on the pully was spot on. I have always been concerned that no1 on the dizzy was at the 5 o'clock position so I thought I would retime it by bringing the dizzy around by 1 tooth but 1st I thought I would check the mu timing and it was well out (the dizzy pos and mu timing was done by a local so called triumph specialist). So the dizzy is now in the right position & both timed correctly. I hot wired the coil just in case the ignition switch was at fault and it still won't sart. Good cones from injectors and everything seems to be sparking OK. A few things I have noticed is the full beam flasher has stopped working also the after market hazard switch. Also when I turn her over should I expect to see the ignition light dim as the alternator spins or are these red herrings? The fuel pump & prv are off to Neil this week as the pump is leaking slightly. As ever many thanks for you help. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted April 26, 2014 Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 ?? nothing at all? - no misfiring, no backfiring into the inlets? no sign of firing at all? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kevo_6 Posted April 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 Zilch Peter. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted April 26, 2014 Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 (edited) Sounds to me you have the lot out of timing,where is the rotor arm now at No1 firing ? Edited April 26, 2014 by ntc Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted April 26, 2014 Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 I agree with Neil. Sorry if this is stating the obvious but there are two TDC occurrences for each cylinder in a 4 cycle engine. Only one of them is the firing stroke. Could you feel compression in number 1 when you were bringing it to TDC? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kevo_6 Posted April 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 At 7oclock Neil, it would not fire before I changed it though. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kevo_6 Posted April 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 Pete, no 1 valves closed and no6 valves on the rock. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted April 26, 2014 Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 Pete, no 1 valves closed and no6 valves on the rock. Just to confirm that is when #1 is at TDC as shown by the pulley mark ( which has been checked by piston stop) that rockers 11 and 12 are rocking. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kevo_6 Posted April 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 Correct Peter. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted April 26, 2014 Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 All I can come up with is maybe injectors 3 to 6 not are spraying- not yet been checked. 1 and 2 might be firing OK, not backfiring, but not enough to start the engine. Check sprays as pulses could be misleading. Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kevo_6 Posted April 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 Good cone sprays from 1&2 but not checked the others, will check the others tomorrow. Thanks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.