AlanG Posted February 19, 2014 Report Share Posted February 19, 2014 Just been for a drive and loads of revs not much acceleration. Drat. What's the best clutch assy. to get and where from? What else should I replacing with the gearbox out? Thanks for any advice. Alan. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted February 19, 2014 Report Share Posted February 19, 2014 Lots of info about that here, but a few items spring to my mind: check the tapered pin inside the bell housing check the oil seal at the back of the engine. Now is the moment. Menno Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Geko Posted February 19, 2014 Report Share Posted February 19, 2014 check the oil seal at the back of the engine. Now is the moment. Menno That one definitly tops the list and also: balance and possibly lighten a bit (say 6,5 lbs from stock) the flywheel and add a reverse light switch (save the wiring for later) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted February 19, 2014 Report Share Posted February 19, 2014 You can certainly check the rear crankshaft oil seal for leakage, although the tell tale hole in the bell housing will probably be telling you there's a problem if there is one. Changing the seal without dropping the crankshaft isn't possible though - to the best of my knowledge and happy to be proven wrong. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted February 19, 2014 Report Share Posted February 19, 2014 Unless my memory plays tricks I seem to remember the Christian Marx (Mad Marx racing) lip seal can be fitted in situ whilst retaining the original scroll seal, perhaps others can confirm ? Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 20, 2014 Report Share Posted February 20, 2014 Hi Alan, the simplest, one thing to look at is the taper pin in the fork. Whatever you do you need to replace the one fitted at present. The pin is fitted in single shear which is not good but that's how they left the factory. You need to either make an arrangement to give double shear or fit another pin through the fork and the cross shaft. Sorting out a double shear arrangement is fun but you need a lathe to make a bush and reprofile the taper pin. The bush fits in the fork abive the cross shaft and the end of the pin sits in it. Fitting an extra pin through the fork is the usual practice - do a search and you will find lots of hits. If you need a new fork and cross shaft make sure they fit together whilst in the shop - there are some that don;t fit. Roger Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted February 20, 2014 Report Share Posted February 20, 2014 (edited) ... and remember to change the cross shaft bushings as well! Sometimes (on some cars) they are pretty worn! As Mick said: Christian is the man to turn to when it comes to replacing the scroll. I had mine done (crankshaft out and done on a lathe) before Christian came up with his solution, but I wouldn't hesitate to buy one of his if I had the chance again. Menno EDIT: And did you see Alec's posting? http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/45441-precision-clutch-reconditioning-service/ Menno Edited February 20, 2014 by Menno van Rij 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanG Posted February 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2014 Thanks for all the advice. I will extract the clutch in the next day or so and see what needs replacing bearing in mind your comments. Alan. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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