Steves_TR6 Posted December 31, 2013 Report Share Posted December 31, 2013 As part of my upcoming rear end upgrade I'd like to eliminate the oil leak from the front diff oil seal, ie the pinion seal. My question is : can this be done with the diff in the car, ie by dropping the prop shaft and then removing the flange by undoing the castellated nut?. Or do I also need to remove the front diff mounting to get at the seal? Ta muchly in advance. Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andrew Smith Posted December 31, 2013 Report Share Posted December 31, 2013 (edited) Yes Steve, then just dig the little chap out and replace it. Cheers and HNY Andrew Edited December 31, 2013 by Andrew Smith Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted December 31, 2013 Report Share Posted December 31, 2013 Yes Steve, then just dig the little chap out and replace it. Cheers and HNY Andrew Not so depends on the diff you have HNY Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andrew Smith Posted December 31, 2013 Report Share Posted December 31, 2013 Not so depends on the diff you have HNY If I stand corrected then so be it, but please enlighten us Neil............... Cheers and HNY Andrew Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted December 31, 2013 Report Share Posted December 31, 2013 Andrew If the diff has been rebuilt it will have a nyloc nut set to suit the mesh.not like a 3 which does not have a collapsible sleeve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted December 31, 2013 Report Share Posted December 31, 2013 Perhaps it depends if the diff has a crushable preload spacer (replace the nut exactly as it was) or a solid spacer (off with the cover and measure drag). If that sounds like I know what I'm talking about, I don't but I'm sure I read it somewhere. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andrew Smith Posted December 31, 2013 Report Share Posted December 31, 2013 Andrew If the diff has been rebuilt it will have a nyloc nut set to suit the mesh.not like a 3 which does not have a collapsible sleeve Glad it didn't need doing on VUX then! Cheers Andrew Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted January 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2014 Thanks for the replies, and Happy New Year ! I did some research and found the castleated / nyloc issue. My dif has been rebuilt with a quaiffe LSD, so suspect it may be the nyloc. I'm planning to do the driveshafts/hubs/diff mounts and seal all together. Regards Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted January 1, 2014 Report Share Posted January 1, 2014 Steve Do you have the correct oil in then? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted January 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2014 I've not changed the oil Neil, I understand it needs some sort of 'special' oil. Could you advise as to what I need ? Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 1, 2014 Report Share Posted January 1, 2014 Take your pick but dont use any to GL5 spec.. http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-970-limited-slip-diff.aspx Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dingle Posted January 1, 2014 Report Share Posted January 1, 2014 Regarding the question posed in the original posting-"Can the pinion seal be changed with the diff in the car?" I don't think so, but someone will probably prove me wrong. There is not much space around the front of the diff to R&R the seal and the front mount bracket would need to be removed. Besides, with all of the flanges unbolted, most of the work is done to remove the diff. As far as which spacer is fitted, if there is a hole in the pinion shank for a cotter pin, that should be evidence of a solid spacer. Of course that wouldn't be revealed until the nut is removed. Berry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cmdr19 Posted January 6, 2014 Report Share Posted January 6, 2014 Having changed my pinion seal a couple of years ago, it was easier to do it off the car. For one thing, to undo the pinion nut took the appropriate socket and a long pole to overcome the 100lb/ft it was done up to and you really need a helper. Would it be a good idea to put the diff mounting pins under that kind of pressure? With the nut off the old seal came out with a bit of digging, new seal in, new nut and for the first time in years have an oil-free diff casing, rear silencer, chassis rails, rear bumper.........you get the drift! Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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