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Steering wander and vibration - AGAIN


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I know there have been many posts on this topic in the past.

 

My 6 has questionable steering and wobble at high speeds.  Also noticable is the tendancy for the wheel to snap away when going over a pothole.

 

As I understand one should check the following:

1) All suspension linkages

2) Wheel bearings

3) Tyre balance (preferably on the car)

4) Tyre pressure 28psi Rear 22psi Front

5) Wheel alignment

 

I have gone through this list so am now left with little else left to do.  I am considering putting new steering mounts in. Does anyone have any views on the alloy mounts, or other options?

 

I am dreading the possibility the rack may be worn.

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Does anyone have any views on the alloy mounts, or other options?

 

I am dreading the possibility the rack may be worn.

I have had good luck with the stock rubber rack mounts, but they definitely have to be preloaded ( best done just prior to alignment, as it will be affected ). The factory manual shows an expander tool for this purpose but I've never seen one. Most folks just loosen one bracket, turn the steering wheel to load the other one whilst clamping the loosened one's flanges at the top with vise grip pliers and re-tightening. This is a 2-person job as the steering wheel has to be loaded during the operation. Huge difference it makes vs. no preload.

 

My [untested] hunch is alloy mounts will accelerated rack wear. ???

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Right Tom, I was advised not to fit alloy mounts for road use as they lack any damping capability necessary when driving on public roads. They could even lead to failure of the rack.

Alloy mounts are good for circuit racing, but not further.

My 6 has fitted poly mounts, they are half way between rubber and alloy :) They give a precise steering and absorb well vibrations.

Jean

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3) Tyre balance (preferably on the car)

I would change this to "on-car is essential".  I had many unsatisfactory experiences with off-car balancing of my wire wheels, and came to the conclusion that nobody I have found here in Sydney can do it - probably due to lack of the correct centering kit. Then I found a guy with an old on-car machine, and Bingo!

 

If you haven't already had the wheels on-car balanced, do it before trying anything more expensive.

 

Cheers,

John

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Agree totally with JohnC. Once balanced I cleaned the inside of the spline hub and painted a Tippex white line to line up with the valve - then you can pull the wheel off for brake discs or bleeding etc and put it back on - I've done this several times and had no need to re-balance.
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