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About MJaggard

  • Birthday 07/14/1978

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  1. MJaggard

    Trim Glue

    Hi, Want to stick down a new trim for the Tr6 door. It is the one that runs along the top of the door and includes the door pull. Having no luck with evostick. Doesnt seem to be strong enough. Can anyone recommend anything else? Thanks Matt
  2. Am selling my TR6: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws....A:UK:31 and was wondering if anyone had any ideas where to post apart from Ebay? I know TR register - but has anyone had good experiences elsewhere? Thanks Matt
  3. Don't know if anyone else has had this problem in the past. The clutch had been intermittently failing to disengage meaning I got stuck in neutral unable to select a gear. Last week driving home I got the bottom of my drive dipped the clutch and bang... my foot hit the floor. No more resistance on the pedal. I inspected the master cylinder - all seemed fine. I then checked the slave and the bolt securing it to the bellhousing had sheared and snapped. Hence upon pressing the pedal the slave cylinder push rod was merely pushing the cylinder away from the bellhousing rather than movin
  4. Have recently purchased a period dashboard SMiths clock. Was going to install and replace the useless Rheostat in the centre of the dash. I was wondering if anyone had any experience with doing anything similar: 1) Can the rheostat just be simply removed without issue? 2) Has anyone got any advice for hole cutting in the dashboard? This is something I really dont want to get wrong and am frankly a little uneasy at the prospect. Has anyone got any tips... Advice much appreciated. Hope you are all well Kind Regards Matt
  5. If you are interested in a restraint seat belt for the rear shelf if you decide to go down that course. See Ebay item no = 7973336267 That should do the job Thanks Matt
  6. People have posted on this point before. I think it is a grey area. I definitely have a spare buckle that went across the rear parcel shelf to allow a child seat. I took it out when installing inertia seat belts and roll bar. Although there has been much debate as to whether they are legal. I would use the search option and examine previous posts. Regards Matt
  7. MJaggard


    I had the same problem with one of mine after refurbishment. I just properly tightened it and it was fine. They do take some "gurn" to get them on the hose connections especially if there is any rust lingering. Bloke to speak to is Mike Bilney if you didn't already get him to service them. I can recommend him - he is excellent... Regards Matt
  8. Have recently purchased a roll bar - see photo. Does anyone have any idea of the manufacturer? I know everyone has reservations about those roll bars that just mount to the tub. However, this is how this one must be fitted. I think I am going to go ahead and fit. After all you are better with it than without it. Furthermore the mount near the seatbelt fixings are over the area of the chassis to body mounts. Whilst the two supporting bars going backwards are only 2-3" from it. Therefore although not directly attached to it, in the case of a roll over then the tub wouldn't have anywhe
  9. Thanks for the help guys - good suggestions. A few answers to the points: 1) Pump is a bosch conversion and about 3 years old with 10K on it 2) The engine is running like a pig at low revs - I have checked all vacuum seals hence I am guessing either injectors or MU is off alignment - I'll check this 3) Will check air filter 4) I think it is putting out oil smoke when "booting it". It only happens through the revs and not once it has reached high revs. I have checked compression and they are all fine. Oil consumption has been up a little lately. 5) Don't think the problem
  10. Am having problems with the MPG and consumption. The plugs are fouling black and on "booting it" I get a cloud of something coming out of the exhaust. I have checked most things but thought I would summarise as this seems a fairly popular post. Has anyone got any comments/ideas: 1) Cleaned out the tank, new fuel filter and flushed all lines for contamination 2) Check spray of the injectors into a jam jar 3) Balanced up the butterflies, set the gap of the choke cam and checked the return of the excess fuel lever Now with the plugs still fouling I am left with the following optio
  11. Found to my shock the other day that my tr6 had a cheap i.e. additive bag in the tank conversion done. Does anyone have any views on conversions and what is required. Also how much it all costs. Is it worth going to whole way and getting the head done. Cheers Matt
  12. I definitely think the conversions are something to be considered when you add the number of rear shocks you will through using the lever arms. I also think the link is a bit prone to failure. When fitting the taper it is always helpful to attach the unit, tighten then put a bottle jack under the hub, jack up the axle to load the suspension and then properly tighten again as slack can develop once the load is taken. Matt
  13. I know there have been many posts on this topic in the past. My 6 has questionable steering and wobble at high speeds. Also noticable is the tendancy for the wheel to snap away when going over a pothole. As I understand one should check the following: 1) All suspension linkages 2) Wheel bearings 3) Tyre balance (preferably on the car) 4) Tyre pressure 28psi Rear 22psi Front 5) Wheel alignment I have gone through this list so am now left with little else left to do. I am considering putting new steering mounts in. Does anyone have any views on the alloy mounts, or other optio
  14. Thanks that helps a lot. I definitely agree that bolting to the bodywork alone is a big no no. I am still wondering though how any roll bar using the mounted to the axle crossmember (i.e. sitting on the front of the rear shelf) won't get in the way of the interia reel for the seatbelt (located in the same place)? Is there a novel way of fitting the inertia reel I am unaware of (see photo for how mine are fitted). Thanks Matt
  15. Recently sourced a roll bar that mounts on the differential cover. These looked like they should be easy to fit only requiring elementary welding (something even I could do. However, I noticed that my fitting of inertia seat belts means that the reel sits on the wheel arch right over the area of the diff box where the roll bar wants to sit. Has anyone else noticed this problem in the past. Is there a way round it? I can't believe every TR6 with a roll bar won't have inertia seat belts. One modern safety feature being sacrificed for another... Matt
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