Superaquarama Posted July 16, 2013 Report Share Posted July 16, 2013 Been a-Googling for lower door repair sections but can't find anything - anyone know if they're available ? Presumably easy enough to make if not, just talking about the last 4" or so. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted July 17, 2013 Report Share Posted July 17, 2013 Paint-factors, the ones around here anyway, stock steel sections for jobs like this. These are the correct "body-work" gauge and have a few simple bends that make them into useful shapes for lots of jobs. Should be able to get a 6in piece with a 1in return flange. I once discovered the web-site of the place that makes this stuff. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted July 17, 2013 Report Share Posted July 17, 2013 Buy a good folder and a sheet of 18SWG steel (1.2mm) and make them up yourself to suit. A lot of the motor factor stuff isnt the right gauge and is poor quality steel. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
terry Posted July 17, 2013 Report Share Posted July 17, 2013 Superaquarama,...i hope you don't mind me asking Stuart a question in your posting. Stuart,..i have some 0.9mm sheet steel in my garage,...question,.. is this suitable for the repair to a door frame and the door skin.. thanks,.. terry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted July 17, 2013 Report Share Posted July 17, 2013 18 SWG is 1.2mm 0.8mm will bend easily but is really hard to weld and will of course rust through more quickly. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted July 17, 2013 Report Share Posted July 17, 2013 Superaquarama,...i hope you don't mind me asking Stuart a question in your posting. Stuart,..i have some 0.9mm sheet steel in my garage,...question,.. is this suitable for the repair to a door frame and the door skin.. thanks,.. terry You will be much better off with the 18SWG(1.2mm), what you have is only any good for Baked bean tins. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graham Harris Posted July 17, 2013 Report Share Posted July 17, 2013 I thought the baked been tin went in first in a fist size rust hole folowed by large amounts of body filler? Thats what i found in my inner sills and this was a car with no accident damage and no bondo from the dry southern States of the US of A.!! Graham. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Superaquarama Posted July 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2013 Thanks, Alan and Stuart. A client restores prewar cars for a living and I'm sure he'll have a folder and some 18 swg, so I'll give him a call. Surprising they're not available off the shelf as they are for many other cars. I just have a couple of penny sized holes at the bottom corners of one door and I suppose I could just repair them, otherwise the California shell's amazingly rust-free with just a couple of pinholes here & there which I thought to braze up and lead fill. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted July 18, 2013 Report Share Posted July 18, 2013 Personally by the sound of what you have I would hit the holes hard with a rotary wire brush to get back to good steel and rust treat the area then lead fill the holes in.They are usually right on where the skin meets the frame so enough support to take the heat with no problem as long as you keep the direction of heat towards the outside of the door. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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