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I'm new in the world of TR's. Not in the world of Triumph and there it is again: a thing that is familiar to all Triumph owners: cooling problems.

 

I bought myself a dismantled 1959 TR3A, with loads of (new and reconditioned) stuff in boxes; including a brand new radiator and the original fan. The front apron is off, so now I have the space to tackle some problems. And no, I've not encountered the cooling problems myself, but better safe than sorry.

 

I've seen several TR's with additional cooling, all fans in front of the radiator. Hence several questions:

Is there a cheaper/better alternative to Kenlowe (e.g. from an scrapped modern car?).

 

Is it wise to put the fan in front of the radiator? Doesn't it block off the airflow somehow? A pulling fan behind the radiator doesn't restrict the flow, but as I've seen, there's little space behind the radiator, which froms new problems (as I can imagine).

 

I live in The Netherlands, so our summers are moderate (or mildly moist). And, as you can see, that's also the reason that my English isn't that perfect.

 

Menno

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menno

i have also got a TR3a and i know what you mean about the cooling?? or lack of it.

the wide mouth on the 3a looks great but a lot of air bypasses the radiator.

TR issued an air scoop for retro fitting to TR3a's very soon after they were first produced. you can pick these up from most TR suppliers for about 20euros but its a pain in the arse to fit and is only made of cardboard. some of the 3a guys make them up out of aluminium sheet!

along with an air scoop i advise putting on a kenlow set up from moss or revingtons, they come with all the bits you need and are suited to the car.

the latest kenlow fans come with a new fan blade design with much improved airflow.

the kenlows sit behind the radiator (the engine side) but do you realise you have to remove your old fan! plenty of room then.

have fun pete

:;):

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menno

i have also got a TR3a and i know what you mean about the cooling?? or lack of it.

the wide mouth on the 3a looks great but a lot of air bypasses the radiator.

TR issued an air scoop for retro fitting to TR3a's very soon after they were first produced. you can pick these up from most TR suppliers for about 20euros but its a pain in the arse to fit and is only made of cardboard. some of the 3a guys make them up out of aluminium sheet!

along with an air scoop i advise putting on a kenlow set up from moss or revingtons, they come with all the bits you need and are suited to the car.

the latest kenlow fans come with a new fan blade design with much improved airflow.

the kenlows sit behind the radiator (the engine side) but do you realise you have to remove your old fan! plenty of room then.

have fun pete

:;):

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Menno,

 

Welcome to the happy world of TR3A motoring!  

 

There has been quite a lot of discussion on the forum about the best position for electric fans which you should be able to find using the search tool.

 

My TR3A has a cooling fan from a scrapyard mounted in front of the radiator.  To date (2 summers) it has worked fine without overheating.

 

PS. you don't have a rear axle that you could measure do you?  (see other post ) ???

 

Dave

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Hello Menno and welcome

 

I fitted a Kenlow (although the Pacet is equally good I understand) to the front of my radiator after my 3A’s engine was rebuilt to 87mm with a lead-free head. I then suffered from overheating and air locks - so did the engine!  

 

However, prevention is better than cure, as there is often more to curing our 3A's overheating problem than simply fitting a fan.

 

So, given the radiator, pump, hoses and waterways will be replaced/restored/cleaned out during your rebuild (as indeed mine were), these are the measures that eventually worked for me:

 

1.  Fit a Kenlow or similar. I fitted a 13" Kenlow Blower 2000 Series (13/B); this works a treat and fits neatly on the radiator and is supported by the internal lip on the apron.

 

2.  Dump the thermostat: I was running with an original bellows fitted and I've still got a number of these new and boxed!

 

3.  Cut out the centre mechanical parts from a modern wax type thermostat and fit it: this then acts as a restrictor and backs up the water allowing it to cool in the radiator. Without it, the water would just pass through the radiator limiting its cooling affect.

 

4.  Fit a restrictor in the bye-pass hose; otherwise the water will just circulate and “bye-pass” the radiator for the most part. Without the restrictor there is a chance of creating local hotspots in the engine with consequent results!

 

5.  For the restrictor, I used a washer with a 1/4" hole (GHF314 from Moss is ideal) or you could use a 10 pence coin (or Dutch equivalent!) and drill it with either 1/8th or 1/4". You will need to use a second jubilee clip behind the washer to keep it in place and prevent it slipping down the hose under pressure. Ensure the washer/coin is fitted hard against the bye-pass housing outlet inside the hose.

 

6.  Use Shell Opitmax with Castrol Valve Master Plus; this reduces run-on in my case.

 

7.  Definitely fit the rad ducting, this is often overlooked as discussed in other posts: it's a must.

 

8.  Finally, ensure the correct rad cap is fitted: 4psi with the correct length neck otherwise water will just deposit itself under your car via the overflow tube. At one stage I was considering fitting the TR4 expansion bottle, but I longer need to consider this option.

 

With all these measures in place my 3A now runs at 170-180f with outside temps up in the mid-eighties and only in heavy traffic does the Kenlow need to come on now. I've set this at 185-190f.

 

Finally, this subject has been raised several times on these pages (once by me), this link will take you to the useful advice that I received last year from fellow members: http://www.tr-register.co.uk/cgi-bin....;t=1695

 

Hope some of this of use. Good luck with your rebuild. :cool:

 

Regards

Andrew

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