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I need to install new brake pads and shoes on my TR3A post TS60K. I am using the original early (fresh rebuilded) calipers (B-type in the Moss catalogue and I guess 9" rear drums) in combo with high quality discs. I have no intention to change the calipers but would like to install more performant pads and shoes. The car is mainly used in historic rallying and the standard pads are on the limit and intend to fade. I use DOT4 oil and Goodridge braided hoses. Any suggestion/experience is welcome.
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Guest Mike Gambordella

Hello rudi: You can try these folks - they've been advertising kevlar brake pads (they call "green stuff"). They don't have the TR3 variety in the catalog, but they invite you to inquire about them. Check the links below: one is the brake pad page of the catalog, the other is the contact info. Shipping from the states could be pricy, but I'm willing to bet they're having them made somewhere in the UK...

 

The Roadster Factory

 

My Webpage Contacts

 

hope this helps

Cheers -

Mike

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I got the EBC Green Stuff brake pads on my TR6. You can find them in 4 compounds depending on the use and weight of your car. Green/Red/Yellow or Blue. I think Green is the most advisable colour for fast street use on light cars.

Rudi, check with Jo from Red Baron, that's where I got mine from, they must the the closest to your location.

Jean

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Rudii

 

This applies to all TR's from TR2 up to TR6.

 

The TR race drivers in USA get what you call brake fade  during races.  They do a series of high-speed curves and the brake pads move back off the rotor disks.  Then they go down the straight and before they get to the next curve they have to give a tap or two on the brake pedal to set the pads back against the disk.

 

They lose time doing this and they don't like the feeling of having no brakes when approaching the next curve going so fast (or too fast).

 

What they have discovered is that the front spindles bend in the series of high-speed curves and this is what moves the pads backwards off the disks.

 

So they have made available new spindles of harder steel with a sleeve that they slide onto it, then they shim it to the correct fit and this eliminates the bending of the shaft etc.  Those who have tested them, they "live by them" as the expression goes.

 

Since adding this mod, they never fear going into the next curve.  This has eliminated all "brake fade".

 

Don Elliott, Original Owner, 1958 TR3A, Montreal, Canada

TR Register Member since 1987

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I put green stuff pads on my TR3A and they work well with increased braking for less pressure on the pedal.  The downside is that they cost about twice as much for a 3A as for a 4A-6 because it is a limited market and they have them produced especially.
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Thanks for the replies so far. I used the EBC green stuff on my 6 a couple of years ago and I am positive. However so far I was not able to find any for the early calipers and as far as I know they do not exist yet. Any experience with Hawk or carbotech? What about the rear, M20?
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Green stuff pads for TR3A with early type (1 piece) calipers are available at the shows or mail order - I got mine from Power Stop Brakes Limited: www.powerstop.co.uk

 

They make a big difference - especially from cold. Pricey though £58.00 2 years ago.

 

Mike

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I bought my TR3A new in 1958.  I drove 42,000 miles on the first set of pads for the front calipers.  During this time I did quite a few rallies.  Then I bought and installed new Standard-Triumph pads.  This must have been in about 1963.

 

These same pads are still in the front calipers with 162,000 miles on the car.

 

They are about half worn with 122,000 miles (195,000 km) on them.   Most of my driving is high speed touring for long distances and I down-shift when I am slowing down.

 

Don Elliott

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Guest Mike Gambordella

Don: I read the article on the axle kit - a perfect solution.

 

For anyone interested, the article can be found in The Vintage Triumph Magazine # 91, Fall 2004.

Contact British Frame and Engine, in California, USA.

BFEKEN@coper.net

(626) 443-0939

always a good conversation...

 

Mike

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This is new to me, because as far as I heard the EBC pads do exist for TR3s etc..

With concern to the shimed stub axle kit, it's also available from Bastuck and I will fit it on my 6 next month when changing the front bearings ( Timken) and put on the new Revington brake disks.

Nothing goes above safety.

Jean

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I've fitted the stub axle kit with shims to my TR3 racecar : it prevents bending of the stub axles and another benefit is that the bearings can be fitted without free play. So it seems a worthwile improvement, but I still have to tap the brakepedal to bring the pads to the brake disks before braking. The reason is that the mounting plates and/or mounting extensions of the calipers are not sturdy enough : when someone is pushing the brake pedal slowly but firmly, you can see the brake calipers moving around somewhat in respect to the vertical links and the disks. The brake pads gets a tapered aspect when wearing out, also because of the bending of the calipers and/or mounting plates

Perhaps the TR4 - TR6 calipers are stronger? Their weight is 2kgs less, it's possible to fit them to a TR3 : then the disks and the caliper mounting plates have to be changed too.

Has someone any experience of TR6 calipers on a sidescreen car? There is a wider choice of uprated brakepads for the TR6 calipers than for TR3 calipers.

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I put green stuff pads on my TR3A .........The downside is that they cost about twice as much for a 3A as for a 4A-6......

Rudi

 

"Green Stuff" is available from Abingdon Parts 4 - Tel: 0121 544 4444, they advertise in TRaction.

 

Cost, inc VAT:

 

TR3-3A - £40

 

TR6      - £27.50

 

Cheers

Andrew

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Thanks for all the replies so far. So it seems that green stuff is availible for the early caliper. But again, I haven't seen any so far. What about Hawk pads, has someone any experience?

As far as changing to the later caliper (w. pin) from TR3B (TCF Series), TR4/4A (from CT4690 and later series) I would think they can be mounted on a TR3A as well, without changing the mounting plates. Although you have to go for the smaller disks (10") instead of the bigger ones (11"). A smaller disk will neg. influence the brake performance. Also the pad is a bit smaller I believe, hence more brake performance one should not ecpect from such a conversion. The only argument to do so is the wider choice of pads, the price of the pads and the weight.

In case you do not mind about originality and when allowed by the rules the hi-spec conversion is the optimum (and the only one that is still affordable) I would say. Although not mentioned on their web, they have a mounting set specifically for the TR scene.  (see www.hispecmotorsport.co.uk)

So far we only have reactions on the front brakes, what about the rear ones?

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I should inform you that I have found the green stuff pads for the TR3A calipers now. Thanks for the information.
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Strange that the TR3/TR4 Rally scene have not responded to this topic so far. Are they afraid to share their secrets?;) I would say they could give a great contribution based on their experience. Come on guys, as there are more than 200 readers so far, I guess there is an interest.
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Racers might use red stuf pads... If I'm correct in my understanding of this subject they would be no good for road use.  They are designed for a much higher operating temperature which would normally only be achieved in the competition environment...

 

Correct me if I'm wrong...

 

:blush:

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I have used Green Stuff pads and grooved discs for the Hillclimbs and road use and they greatly increase the stopping power even from cold.

However I have had problems at two lap Sprints experiencing severe brake fade at the final chicane at Castle Combe which definitely gets the attention!!

Fortunately you can go straight on under those circumstances and I replaced the pads with Yellow Stuff which work equally well but do not fade at all and that includes 5 hard laps at Goodwood.

Regards

John

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Thanks John. Would you say the yellow pads work from cold and can be used on the road too? What about the rear end and the brake fluid? Btw I'd like to congratulate you with your 3th place in the championship.
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Thanks for your kind comments Rudi!!

The Yellow Stuff ones seem equally good from cold the only downside being they can be a bit noisy but I believe they now come with noise reduction pads.I have used them on the road with no problems.

I haven't found the need to change the rear linings from standard although I have got an adjustment valve in the front to rear line to avoid rear lock up. Do NOT use silicone fluid when used in anger can create air in the system. I use Motul which has a higher than normal temp capacity but you do not need to go mad and buy SRF for instance.

Regards

John

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