Rodbr Posted February 11, 2013 Report Share Posted February 11, 2013 Hi Miles, http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l2736&_nkw=dremel+cutting+discs. These are the type of discs I mean, very thin and give the best access, any thing bigger means you get a smaller cut. You are trying cut a split rather than press a split using pressure. Use part worn ones as they are smaller giving even more access. By a spiral cut I mean to try to get round and cut as much as possible down the nut. A straight cut wont cut the full nut before you catch the manifold flange so by cutting at an angle away from the manifold and out following the thread it forms a sort of spiral. All you need to do is get as long a cut though the nut as possible so it splits easier. I was sceptical about the stud extractor but it was recommended by the body shop as the best type. To be sure I really recommend getting the manifold off so it fits close to the head and gives the maximum thread length to act on. The type I suggested because of the excentric knurled boss gets tighter as you turn it and catches the threads better than the ball type. It really is worth the effort now because you could have to remove the head to get a broken stud out should it break close to the head. Hope this helps. rgds Rod Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MilesA Posted February 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2013 Hi Rod Thanks for the clarification. Obviously hoping to remove the stud without dmaging the stud but of course the stud may already be stripped rather than the nut so I may have no option! Miles Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted February 11, 2013 Report Share Posted February 11, 2013 If you do have to remove the stud then you need to do what you can to ensure that you dont break off in the process. I always do the same thing when undoing something that may be stuck/rusted in place. Heat it and hit it with cold water so that one part shrinks. Doing this a few times breaks the bond. In this case I'd run the engine until hot. Then hit just the stud with a water jet. Then just wait for it to heat up again. This wont take much effort and in my experience frees stuff that you have broken otherwise. Al. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 11, 2013 Report Share Posted February 11, 2013 Hi Miles, I can see a scenario building up - Stud snaps Off with the manifold - no joy Off with the head - extract stud Whilst head is off - pop out the pistons and liners to clean crud around #4 pot (cylinder for the Gringo's) Whilst the sump is off - off with the oil pump. Rebuild dizzy whilst oil pump is disconnected. Replace main bearing shells - drop the crank - remove gearbox. Strip out the interior off with the windscreen Out with the engine Off with the wings Full respray Put back together I think you should be driving it by about April - 2015. Don;t get carried away Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MilesA Posted February 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2013 Great minds... and all that Roger. I had been thinking this could be the TR owners equivalent of the chaos theory of a butterflys wing beat leading to a Tsunami! Miles Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 11, 2013 Report Share Posted February 11, 2013 Be brave - Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted February 11, 2013 Report Share Posted February 11, 2013 I think you were right in the first place - use a nut splitter. I have had one for years and it is only used rarely but works every time and doesn't damage the underlying thread. Mine looks like the draper one that comes up if you google nut splitter but is a bit more butch - it will split nuts up to about 1". They aren't that expensive and are a valuable addition to the tool box when dealing with old cars. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MilesA Posted March 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2013 Update! I has taken a month but I managed to grab a couple of hours with the car today. Neil was on the money - nut splitters are the solution! Got a really well made pair for about a fiver on Amazon. I was cautious tightening them down but the crack you get on the second drive as the nut splits is pretty satisfying. Bad news is that the stud is stripped and from the ancient looking rust on the stripped section, has been for a very long time! Thank you PO. So risking adverse comments, the temporary fix is 3 brand new spring washers and a brand new brass nut (and a brass nut on the engine is a thing of beauty) , applied with Copaslip. I know the stud has got to come out sometime and I know all the steel manifold nuts should be replaced with the nice brass ones I have bought, but until I really need to get the head off, I would quite like to drive the car occasionally! I am pretty sure this fix will do the job for a god while. Anyway, as ever, thanks for all the suggestions which I had in reserve if the splitters did not do the job. Next is the newly discovered leaking heater valve control. Miles Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted March 9, 2013 Report Share Posted March 9, 2013 Hi Miles, washers will be fine. if it was going to break it would have happened when you tightened it. Enjoy the summer - according to my seaweed it's going to be a good one. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.