ian l Posted November 11, 2012 Report Share Posted November 11, 2012 I'm at the stage of starting the engine for the first time in my rebuild and it won't run. It seams to run on 3 or 4 cylinders and won't rev above 2000 rpm I have checked the spark plugs,firing order,injectors and they all work. I have timed the metering unit so I can just see the start of a hole on number 6 injector port with it on top dead centre firing on number 1 cylinder, I've got over 100 psi at the metering unit everything is new I think it maybe that the metering unit may not be timed correctly, is it possible to get it 180 degrees out ? any ideas what to look at next. Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted November 11, 2012 Report Share Posted November 11, 2012 Ian, Somethings way out but MU timing is not that critical. Spark timing? Around 12BTDC static. Inability to go over 2000 rpm might be due to way too much advance, which gets worse as the centrigugal advance comes in. Fo is 153624 anticlockwise looking down on the disy. Any backfiring into manifold? Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ian l Posted November 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2012 Timing set to 12 degrees turning dizzy when engine running don't help, but haven't played with advance Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted November 11, 2012 Report Share Posted November 11, 2012 Cam timing? when #1 piston is at tdc (firing) #6 rockers should be rocking (inlet opening exhaust closing). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ian l Posted November 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2012 Cam timing? when #1 piston is at tdc (firing) #6 rockers should be rocking (inlet opening exhaust closing). Think its right, was sort of checked when metering unit was set The engine was built 8 years ago and i can't remember how it was set, but its a standard cam, so i don't think its that as its just line up the marks to set. not like a performance cam that has to be set with a dial guage etc Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted November 11, 2012 Report Share Posted November 11, 2012 Ian, Not 8 year old petrol I hope! New rotor arm? - must be red. Starting to run out of suggestions... Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted November 12, 2012 Report Share Posted November 12, 2012 Have you bled the injectors? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stoker Posted November 12, 2012 Report Share Posted November 12, 2012 Hi Ian Prime suspects may be either the rotor arm or dissy cover, there are some dodgy ones about. Failing that pull injectors one by one with engine running and check you have a nice cone spray. I think I have a spare rotor and cap, will try and get up Tuesday night. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ian l Posted November 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2012 Ian, Not 8 year old petrol I hope! New rotor arm? - must be red. Starting to run out of suggestions... Peter no not 8 year old petrol new red rotor arm was thinking i might have the injector pipes on wrong on the metering unit Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PILKIE Posted November 12, 2012 Report Share Posted November 12, 2012 Hi Ian. I had a bad misfire when setting mine back up after it split a MU diaphragm. Did a mini service at the same time. I was chasing around the engine thinking it was MU timing,blocked injector,or this,or that,or the other. Nothing I did cured it,until!! Turned out to be a duff new dizzy cap,as the center rotor contact was stuck up and not contacting properly! As soon as I put the old dizzy cap back all was perfect. Also there are some new red rotors out there that are not the genuine Distributor Doctor article,and are known to be duff! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ian l Posted November 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2012 Hi Ian. I had a bad misfire when setting mine back up after it split a MU diaphragm. Did a mini service at the same time. I was chasing around the engine thinking it was MU timing,blocked injector,or this,or that,or the other. Nothing I did cured it,until!! Turned out to be a duff new dizzy cap,as the center rotor contact was stuck up and not contacting properly! As soon as I put the old dizzy cap back all was perfect. Also there are some new red rotors out there that are not the genuine Distributor Doctor article,and are known to be duff! Will check it out but i don't think this is the problem To check the plugs i took them all out and lay them in a row on the rocker cover and they all worked, which proved the points,rotor arm, dizzy, leads and plugs work. I think Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted November 12, 2012 Report Share Posted November 12, 2012 (edited) no not 8 year old petrol new red rotor arm was thinking i might have the injector pipes on wrong on the metering unit Ian Yes if injector pipes are in wrong holes on the MU then some of the injection pulses could be lost down the exhaust if the squirt happened in the overlap period. Or maybe not .....dont rreally know for certain Peter Edited November 14, 2012 by Peter Cobbold Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ian l Posted November 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2012 WOO HOO HAPPY DAYS IT RUNS Turned out to be the coil, put a new one on and it fired straight up Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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