Jump to content

Voltage stabiliser. How is it wired.


Recommended Posts

Can anybody advise how I should wire the voltage stabiliser for the temp guage and fuel guage on a alternator sidescreen car. The stabiliser has four connections. Two below the word top, and two below the letter R. Presumably I need power in at one and two connections one to each dial, but which connections. Thanks David.

Link to post
Share on other sites

David

As I am sure you know originally there was no voltage regulator on the car but if yours is like the one I have then the input is the plain spades (Male)

and the output is the spade receptacles (Female). The casing is earth. With greater than 12V across input and earth expect output and earth to pulse on/off in slow time. The device is not polarity sensitive unlike any solid state devices which are now available to replace the old technology.

 

Regards

 

Rog

Link to post
Share on other sites

Can anybody advise how I should wire the voltage stabiliser for the temp guage and fuel guage on a alternator sidescreen car. The stabiliser has four connections. Two below the word top, and two below the letter R. Presumably I need power in at one and two connections one to each dial, but which connections. Thanks David.

 

 

David: the side screen cars had no stabiliser. The fuel gauge was designed to operate (more or less) at 12VDC and the temperature gauge was a direct reading Bourdon tube type. However, if you look below you will see the correct connections for a 10VDC fuel and temperature gauge as fitted to a TR4 or 4A with stabiliser. :)

 

 

TR4_Gauges.jpg

Edited by angelfj
Link to post
Share on other sites

David

 

Sounds like you are fixed up now but just a small point to clarify.The old thermal unit like the type you have is not polarity sensitive but it must be wired to the input and earth and not output and earth , i.e. this does matter. If you put 12v across output and earth you would have a short. What I meant it does not matter if your car is -ve earth or +ve earth.

Regards

Rog

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a similar situation with the original temperature gauge having been replaced with an electrical sensor. Clearly the temperature gauge needs to be fed from the voltage regulator.

However I have a question - if the original fuel gauge is still fitted and was designed to operate off 12volts (all be it unregulated) will this still work properly if it is now fed by a10volt regulated supply as shown in the angelfj's circuit diagram?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Ian,

your gauge needs 12V if you stick 10V across it it will not deflect fully.

You can feed 10V to the thermogauge from the stabiliser, and 12V across the Fuel gauge.

 

Roger

 

 

Roger, with a 10 volt supply wouldn't he consume less petrol???

 

Sorry, I'm just leaving. :P

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.