DJF Posted June 5, 2012 Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 I'm working on the offside trying to fathom out the best way of sorting the door gap issue. At the top of the door I have a 1/2" gap and at the base of the door its 1/4"; this is after I've jacked the body up off the chassis and slipped in 4 spacers. The rear section of the chassis now exposed below the valance approx 1 3/4"; is this acceptable. The rear wing seems to be reasonably well positioned so there does not appear to be much adjustment available. I know the front wing could be nudged further to the rear to close the gaps but then the front of the wing would not align with the front tip of the bonnet! I've read a section in Roger Williams 'How to Restore a TR4A' (p57).. he talks about cutting all but the top flange of both rear chassis legs for about 50", then jacking up the chassis until the door gaps are correct and then re-welding the chassis. Any thoughts? Dilemma is do I attempt the chassis adjustment/lead load the edges of the doors or jack the body even further (would then have to adjust the bumper stays!) Any ideas anyone. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted June 5, 2012 Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 Yep Burn the book Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TorontoTim Posted June 6, 2012 Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 I'm sure Stuart will shortly let you know that most rear wings are bollocks and need the edge building up - he has great pictures too! 'fraid they all do that, sir.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
littlejim Posted June 6, 2012 Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 Is the chassis OK round the T-shirt area? (Mine was rusted and required a fair bit of new metal, plus the new T-shirt.) If it is OK, I'd be using Stuart's lead loading trick to make the door look OK. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Badfrog Posted June 6, 2012 Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 (edited) Are the angled shims between chassis and rear tub OK? Sometimes they fly off and the rear tub sags (parts 39, 47). http://www.moss-euro...ateIndexID=1887 It was my problem: the shims were gone. Yet, we also had to resort to some welding of the rear tub posts. I read the above message too fast: we didn't go for the R. Williams trick, but we worked on the tub. I would not touch the chassis. I add pics, courtesy Overdrive garage. Car is perfect now (gap-wise) even with unmodded second hand rear wings (obtained in the late 70's, tho) Badfrog Edited June 6, 2012 by Badfrog Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kiwifrog Posted June 6, 2012 Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 Is your car a 4 or a 4A ? I would be very weary of cutting and shutting the chassis to fix door gaps! If the problem is because of the chassis then it needs to be investigated and repaired correctly and not hidden. If it is a case, as is very often so of the panels just not being the right shape then Stuarts method of lead loading the front of the wings is a much simpler, cleaner and safer way of sorting the problem. With the money you will be investing in the car in terms of hours parts and paints etc a bodge will come back and bite you on the bum Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 6, 2012 Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 I've read a section in Roger Williams 'How to Restore a TR4A' (p57).. he talks about cutting all but the top flange of both rear chassis legs for about 50", then jacking up the chassis until the door gaps are correct and then re-welding the chassis. Any thoughts? Unless your name is Colin Matthews (CTM Engineering http://www.ctmengineering.co.uk/CTM-homepage.html ) DO NOT even think about doing that. First of all you need to establish if your chassis is indeed straight to start with. Get the car up on to stands (Preferably on a level floor) and then level the chassis up fore and aft and side to side by shimming the stands and using a magnetic spirit level. Then check that the shell is level in relation to the chassis. (This is corrected by adding or subtracting body mounting shims from the mounting points. Once you are satisfied that everything is level then and only then can you get the panel alignments correct. Its no good trying to just add some shims in one place to correct a single panel as you will then upset another part of the shell. (You should only be able to see about a maximum of 3/4" of the rear chassis rails below the back panel) If the gaps go from thick to thin then your best bet would be to lead fill the edge to correct this. Welding a bit on can cause more problems than it solves as you run the risk of distortion and also the amount of grinding required after often means that you end up with some very thin spots indeed. I will be doing my Lead filling demo at Malvern International again this year for anyone who wants to learn the technique. Pictures below show a wing line being leaded and the bottom of a door and a boot lid corrected to fit . Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DJF Posted June 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 Yep Burn the book Hi Neil Understand your sentiments but not sure i can do that...... might be better using you guys on the Forum! Cheers Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DJF Posted June 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 Unless your name is Colin Matthews (CTM Engineering http://www.ctmengine...M-homepage.html ) DO NOT even think about doing that. First of all you need to establish if your chassis is indeed straight to start with. Get the car up on to stands (Preferably on a level floor) and then level the chassis up fore and aft and side to side by shimming the stands and using a magnetic spirit level. Then check that the shell is level in relation to the chassis. (This is corrected by adding or subtracting body mounting shims from the mounting points. Once you are satisfied that everything is level then and only then can you get the panel alignments correct. Its no good trying to just add some shims in one place to correct a single panel as you will then upset another part of the shell. (You should only be able to see about a maximum of 3/4" of the rear chassis rails below the back panel) If the gaps go from thick to thin then your best bet would be to lead fill the edge to correct this. Welding a bit on can cause more problems than it solves as you run the risk of distortion and also the amount of grinding required after often means that you end up with some very thin spots indeed. I will be doing my Lead filling demo at Malvern International again this year for anyone who wants to learn the technique. Pictures below show a wing line being leaded and the bottom of a door and a boot lid corrected to fit . Stuart. Stuart You are a fountain of knowledge! Thanks for the advice and taking the trouble to send the pics of lead loading. I'll do what you suggest and set the chassis up and body up accurately. Seems that lead loading is the way to go. I've read-up on it but never attempted it. I'll try and get down to the IWE (what day is your demo). While I'm on...... the rear chassis rails, whats acceptable re whats visible below the valance.? Thanks once again Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted June 7, 2012 Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 Hi Neil Understand your sentiments but not sure i can do that...... might be better using you guys on the Forum! Cheers Dave Dave I still would there are those on here that know and those that do not Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted June 8, 2012 Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 Hi Dave, if you re-read Stuarts post again he states apprx 3/4" visible. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 8, 2012 Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 Lead filling demo should be on the Saturday at 11 AM. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Badfrog Posted June 8, 2012 Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 Lead filling demo should be on the Saturday at 11 AM. Stuart. I'll be there. I'll be wearing a lead bikini. Badfrog Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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