fox889 Posted May 30, 2012 Report Share Posted May 30, 2012 (edited) Many thanks to all who put their 'two-pennyworth' on what happened over the weekend. I've attached (hopefully) a photo of the bosch set-up. It appears from various sources on here that: I shouldn't have a fuel tap (starvation) I shouldn't have a pre-filter (starvation) Best of all, it shouldn't be fixed inside the boot!!! The pump set up is just how I bought her, installed by a 'specialist' company. I had a chat this afternoon with a 'well known TR specialist' who pointed out the 3 points above. He can supply a larger outlet from the tank, supply a better filter & even move the pump to the outside. My main question is, where the heck do you install the pump outside of the boot? And if so, is this a common thing to do. I'm pretty sure that the breakdown that happened over the weekend was down to heat, & quite rightly this guy said "just think where your pump sits, encased by a spare wheel, under a board with carpet/mats/junk sitting there making it more like an oven"....he's got a point! I cleaned the pre-filter (looks like a Revington) yes, there was a little crud in there but nothing too serious. My other point is, that the bosch pump has been wired into the old loom, & the wire(s) from the pump were bloody hot, even just after only a few minutes running. I've got a sparky coming over to wire up a relay which should make the wiring run a tad cooler. Next job I think is to remove the tank, clean her up/out then possibly go with the larger pipes etc. Your views, as alaways, are much appreciated. Apologies for 'going on' a bit..................I tend to get carried away (or should be!). Nick. Edited May 30, 2012 by fox889 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted May 30, 2012 Report Share Posted May 30, 2012 As I said you are filtering it twice and the glass one is only good for after pressure not before and not for a Pi system. and the pump should work fine where it is Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted May 30, 2012 Report Share Posted May 30, 2012 If your pump has been running on original wiring, it will not have supplied sifficient amps to the pump. The pump would therefore be working harder and getting hotter. As it gets hotter so does your the fuel. Its possible your problem has been the wiring. Get your sparky to use a relay and use the old wiring to switch the relay and a fused direct feed from the battery to pump. Do make sure the pump has a very good earth. Once hes done that see if the pump sounds better i bet it will. GoodLuck GUY Quote Link to post Share on other sites
fox889 Posted May 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 As I said you are filtering it twice and the glass one is only good for after pressure not before and not for a Pi system. and the pump should work fine where it is Neil: The 'pre-filter' seems to be everyone's comment that it shouldn't actually be there! OK, so if I remove the glass filter, excuse my ignorance, where and how do I filter the fuel that comes from the tank or don't we bother? Are you also suggesting getting rid of the tap as well? A few people have commented about getting a larger feed pipe from the tank to the pump. Sparky is coming next week so at least the wiring will be ok. Thanks for your input. Nick. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andrew Smith Posted May 31, 2012 Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 Nick, As Neil says, there's nothing wrong with fitting the pump in the boot providing it’s installed correctly. Guy is also right, in that it's probably your wiring for the pump at fault if you are using the wiring for the Lucas pump which draws 3.5 - 5 amps, the Bosch pump needs 13 amps, so the wiring needs to be in a good state, with a good earth and capable drawing 13 amps without getting hot and wired through a relay. As for the pre-filter you need the correct billet type as per my Prestige set-up below - I also have a Prestige Diaphragm PRV fitted which stops the dreaded resonance - so if you hear what sounds like a Vu-Vu-Zela in the boot, then that's resonance! Cheers Andrew Quote Link to post Share on other sites
badshead Posted May 31, 2012 Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 Nick You've got the Revington kit and it will work perfectly well as is as long as the fuel supply is adequate. With the exception of the fuel tap and alloy fuel tank, it's identical to mine and that's worked perfectly well for over 8 years. As already said changing/uprating the wiring is a must, the wiring is probably getting hot under the dash as well if the current is still routed via the original ignition circuit! Look familiar? Bill Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tony Millward Posted May 31, 2012 Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 Bill, I noticed the pre-filter you are using, I had one of these fitted and the ends had a tendency to unscrew due to vibration. Keep your eyes on it.... Cheers Tony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted May 31, 2012 Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 The title says it all http://www.fastroadcars.co.uk/shop/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=75 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
badshead Posted May 31, 2012 Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 The title says it all http://www.fastroadc...od&productId=75 Whatever it says on the tin it's a fuel filter, it's not on the pressurised side of the pump and it works. It also costs about 90% less than some of the fancier versions being used. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted May 31, 2012 Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 Bill You will have noted it is a mircon filter, also spring loaded. It was never designed to be a pre filter, you must have one very clean fuel tank but you get what you pay for! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
whatmore179 Posted May 31, 2012 Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 Ive got the Revingtopn set up on my TR6. Been on it for well over 10 years. The glass fuel filter does the job, as Bill said its not on the pressurised side of the pump just gravity fed. Ive also got the fuel tap on the tank. Check the wiring Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted May 31, 2012 Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 Yep and Revington sell smelley fuel pipe's Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted May 31, 2012 Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 Yep and Revington sell smelley fuel pipe's As a matter of interest to all Revington Tr are in discussion with there manufactuer with regard to this pipe. So i imagine new pipework will be available in due course Cheers GUY Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted May 31, 2012 Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 Good Another case of us doing the homework but at least they are doing something Quote Link to post Share on other sites
marko Posted May 31, 2012 Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 Your tank should be capable of delivering between 2.5 - 3 litres of fuel per minute ideally, either through a free flowing pre-filter or not.....If it doesn't then you may have "vapour lock" or cavitation problems due to the bosch pump not getting enough fuel........ We measured the fuel flow through one of the larger Bosch type pre-filters and it was 1.5 litres per min - which is not enough!! and this kit is supplied by one of the larger suppliers beginning with M..and ending in S.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
fox889 Posted May 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 Ive got the Revingtopn set up on my TR6. Been on it for well over 10 years. The glass fuel filter does the job, as Bill said its not on the pressurised side of the pump just gravity fed. Ive also got the fuel tap on the tank. Check the wiring Steve Wiring is a must! thanks for your input! Nick. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
fox889 Posted May 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 Ive got the Revingtopn set up on my TR6. Been on it for well over 10 years. The glass fuel filter does the job, as Bill said its not on the pressurised side of the pump just gravity fed. Ive also got the fuel tap on the tank. Check the wiring Steve Well, I was going to remove the tap & pre-filter, but opinion says leave alone but get the wiring done which is booked in for next week. Thanks for your input, much appreciated. Nick. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
fox889 Posted May 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 Nick You've got the Revington kit and it will work perfectly well as is as long as the fuel supply is adequate. With the exception of the fuel tap and alloy fuel tank, it's identical to mine and that's worked perfectly well for over 8 years. As already said changing/uprating the wiring is a must, the wiring is probably getting hot under the dash as well if the current is still routed via the original ignition circuit! Look familiar? Bill Bill, thanks for your input. Yes, yours is virtually identical to mine so perhaps I'll leave well alone but just do the wiring! Thanks very much. Nick. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
badshead Posted May 31, 2012 Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 (edited) Nick I know electrickery can be a bit daunting, but updating the pump wiring is well within the realms of DIY. It's also cheap, all you need is a 12v 30/40 amp make & break automotive relay and an appropriate length of cable: 1. Disconnect the existing cable at the +ve terminal on the pump. Connect a new cable (rated at least 3.00mm2 - 27amps) from the pump +ve terminal and route it under the carpet into the engine bay emerging on the passenger side near the fuse box. 2. Locate the white wire from the inertia switch (mounted on bulkhead) connected to the pump and cut that wire where it disappears into a hole in the bodywork. 3. Mount the relay in the vicinity of the fuse box. 4. Connect the new uprated cable from the pump to terminal 87 on the relay. 5 Connect the cut wire from the inertia switch to terminal 85 on the relay 6 Connect a new wire from terminal 86 on the relay to earth 7. Take a wire (same gauge as uprated wire from pump) from the +ve terminal of the battery** via a 30amp fuse to terminal 30 on the relay. 8. Finally, connect a new cable between the pump -ve terminal and a nearby good earth ensuring same gauge wire as uprated cable is used. Ideally the old pump supply cable should be removed to keep things tidy - should pull through from the boot end. Hey presto - the pump now has an adequate fused, ignition switched, dedicated power supply protected by the inertia switch. ** If you've got a CP car you might want to take the new power supply from the ammeter to maintain a correct reading. Not needed on a CR car as voltmeter is used. Bill Edited May 31, 2012 by badshead Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted May 31, 2012 Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 A glass filter in the boot Quote Link to post Share on other sites
badshead Posted May 31, 2012 Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 A glass filter in the boot It's actually in the spare wheel well and comes with a switchable metal case for the faint-hearted Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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