Farid Posted April 3, 2011 Report Share Posted April 3, 2011 Hi! Does anyone know whether the brake/clutch reservoir becomes subjected to a large pressure during the operation of brake or clutch? I do not think there should be much of a pressure, but I want to have it confirmed. The reason is that I have removed the reservoir; however, during dismantling it, the lines going from the reservoir to master cylinders broke! I have made new lines that go from the reservoir to the master cylinders. It is just that I am not too sure about my skill in having made very effective double flares that are required for the tubes end. In other words, I do not want to put everything together, and then find out that because of the high pressure in the reservoir, I get a leak. BTW, Of course I could order the lines and eliminatet the guess-work. It is just that it takes about one and a half month to get TR3 part in this neck of the woods, and I am too impatient for the wait! Cheers! Farid Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted April 3, 2011 Report Share Posted April 3, 2011 There shouldn't be any significant pressure in the reservoir though you do need to make sure that the outlet pipes are sealed on the joins. Its also worth changing the rubber seals in the connectors where they come out of the reservoir base as they are very often past their best. Make sure that the replacements are compatible with whatever fluid you are using. Stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don Elliott Posted April 4, 2011 Report Share Posted April 4, 2011 There should be a small vent hole in the top cap of the brake/clutch fluid reservoir. This will vent the pressure should any accumulate. Try blowing through this tiny hole and listen for the air coming through to make sure it's not blocked. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Farid Posted April 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2011 Dear Stuart and Don: Thnaks very much for your replies. The rubber seals have been replaced! CHeers! Farid Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Farid Posted April 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2011 BTW, Stuart's explanation begs another question! Why have they used those obscurely shaper steel tubes in order to connect the reservoir to master cylinders. I had hell of a time to bend two pieces of straight steel tubing to those weird shapes and trying to double flare their ends. If there is no pressure, why one should bother which such weird design? Do you agree one could then use copper tube (which are more easily bendable) instead of the steel tubes? Looking at my daily drive car, the tube connecting the brake reservoir to master cylinder is rubber! Cheers! Farid Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vivdownunder Posted April 4, 2011 Report Share Posted April 4, 2011 Farid, the cranked feed pipes were to allow the reservoir to (just) clear the underside of the bonnet. Also, it had to be mounted right beside the master cylinders, as the bonnet curved down to the guard from there. It was metal because plastics technology hadn't been introduced in the mid '50's when that reservoir was designed for the disc braked TR3. In fact TR3's were the first production car with disc brakes, just beating Jaguar, so that design was state of the art at the time. You could use copper for the cranked pipes, but it's banned for brake lines in many countries. Years back the reservoir pipes came pre-bent, but suppliers seem to have taken a short cut these days with straight pipes. Last pair I purchased though, came with the fittings on and the flairs already made. Flairs are best sent to a brake shop with the proper machine. We all know what happens to the duco if they leak, unless using Dot 5 silicone fluid. All the different things on modern cars such as fuel injection, plastic radiators etc. reflects half a century of progress in automotive design. Regards, Viv. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted April 4, 2011 Report Share Posted April 4, 2011 BTW, Stuart's explanation begs another question! Why have they used those obscurely shaper steel tubes in order to connect the reservoir to master cylinders. I had hell of a time to bend two pieces of straight steel tubing to those weird shapes and trying to double flare their ends. If there is no pressure, why one should bother which such weird design? Do you agree one could then use copper tube (which are more easily bendable) instead of the steel tubes? Looking at my daily drive car, the tube connecting the brake reservoir to master cylinder is rubber! Cheers! Farid If your car is L/Hand drive then the height is not so critical as on a R/Hand one though it does need to be kept fairly low for clearance and yes it is a game to get them bent like that Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted April 4, 2011 Report Share Posted April 4, 2011 If your car is L/Hand drive then the height is not so critical as on a R/Hand one though it does need to be kept fairly low for clearance and yes it is a game to get them bent like that Stuart. TRF sells pre-bent steel pipes for the reservoir.. http://trf.zeni.net/TR2-TR3Handbook/18.php Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.