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About Farid

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  • Location
    Halifax, NS, Canada
  1. Thank you Peter W for your input. Cheers, Farid
  2. Thank you Bob; will give it a try. BTW, are the nut that goes and lock the tie rods end (the male bolt looking pieces), all the same thread? Cheers, Farid
  3. Hello TR3 gurus: Yesterday, I took the two tie-rods to insure they have the same length, hence improve the wheel alignment. I had a hell of a time to put the nuts back, as the knobs (the bolt-like members at the tie-rod ends) kept turning as I was tightening the nut. In any case, I managed to tighten them with a lots of effort, but I feel one of the ends knob (if that is the right term), has not fully sat in the accommodating female seat, thus I have some play when I wiggle the wheels. Moreover, one of the nuts has been stripped. I have, therefore, two questions: 1. Is there any tric
  4. Hello: I took my TR3A's brake/clutch reservoir and refurbished it. Now trying to put it back. Before connecting the pipes, I wanted to double check that the smaller reservoir within the container is for clutch, and the bigger space is for brakes; am I correct? Cheers, Farid
  5. Folks: I have been waiting over a week for someone to suggest a compatible rear axle swap option! The whole discussion got diverted by gear-ratio! I have seen TR6 swapping real axle with Ford 8"; I have been told that by changing the rear axle, one could lower the RPM for a given speed, and also get a better ride. Apparently, this alternative is even less expensive than the J-type gearbox alternative. What do you guys think? I would appreciate your comments (hopefully directed to my query!) Cheers, Farid
  6. Thank you all for your input. I like to learn more about Bob's idea. Now the next equation would be, what be a compatible lower ratio back axle? Cheers, Farid PS. By the time I get a J-type gearbox with overdrive to this neck of the woods, it would cost me nearly $3000 Can (not a cost-effective option for yours truly!)
  7. I see people spending thousands of dollars in either fitting an overdrive, or to opt for the so-called HVDA Conversion to their gearbox. Here is a naive question: Can one not put a taller gear on the 4th to resolve the high-RPM issue? Cheers, Farid
  8. Thanks again - however, no one has made any suggestion(s) as how I can alleviate the hard starting of the TR when it is cold (by cold, I mean sitting in garage for a day or so. Regards, Farid
  9. Folks: Thanks very much for all your advices. I have tried Richard's suggested tuning; I will give it a shot soon! Wouldn’t advancing, however, make the initial starting a bit more challenging? What is the cause of hard start when cold then? Many thanks again! Farid
  10. Having had my SU carbs professionally repaired, I have been struggling to get my timing and SU carb set properly. Finally, I bought a set of colourtune, and set the carbs. I also set the timing to exactly 4 deg BTDC. However, although the car runs very well (when it is being ridden), when I want to shut it off, it rattles and huffs and puffs for a few seconds, and then dies! Of course, the reason I touched the timing was because since I installed the repaired CARBS, it takes several (TEN TO TWELVE) cranks to start the car when it is cold; once it starts, however, it runs perfectly, with lo
  11. Hello all: Does anyone know what the overall diameter of TR3A flywheel is? I am trying to get a visual feel as what the 4 deg BTDC looks like in terms of distance on the flywheel. Thnak you! Farid
  12. Don: Thanks very much for the reply. Cheers, Farid
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