peejay4A Posted December 5, 2010 Report Share Posted December 5, 2010 On my chassis (4A) there are two holes each side that the engine mountings can go into. Which should I use - or is it a case of whichever fits best? Over you you O Wise Ones. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kob666e Posted December 5, 2010 Report Share Posted December 5, 2010 Over you you O Wise Ones. Not me then but I'll give an opinion. Use whichever hole makes the top hose line up with the rad the best. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted December 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2010 Thanks Justin. The holes I'm referring to are fore and aft of each other so not affecting the engine height. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR 2100 Posted December 6, 2010 Report Share Posted December 6, 2010 On my chassis (4A) there are two holes each side that the engine mountings can go into. Which should I use - or is it a case of whichever fits best? Over you you O Wise Ones. I don't pretend to fit that category, and I'm not so familiar with 4A deviations, but it sounds like the TR2/3 style where the mountings were fixed with two bolts. Is that how it looks? If not, then a photo perhaps? AlanR Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted December 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2010 Good point Alan. Here's a picture which I hope shows what I mean. And is there a trick to getting the nuts on when the engine has been lowered into place? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted December 6, 2010 Report Share Posted December 6, 2010 Its the rear most of the two and yes it is "Tricky" as there is a flat washer and a spring washer as well as the nut to go on. Best done first without the engine in and leave them loose as due to the angles of the studs to the mounting plate you need to wriggle the upper studs in to the engine plate. I see from your picture that the inner wishbone mounts have no shims between them and the mounting boxes, check your camber angles as they will be needed, also check if they are the two bolt mounting brackets as well in case they havent been upgraded to later style. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted December 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2010 (edited) Thanks Stuart. The chassis is as I collected it from Chris H so I'm aware that it will need shimming - I don't think the trailing arms are shimmed either. I'll get round to it at some time. The lower wishbone brackets are the single stud type. The Roger Williams book seems to indicate that the upgrade is simply the drilling of an extra hole then using the TR5/6 brackets. That said, I'm inclined to leave it all as is until it comes down to you next year and go for the full reinforcing kit in that area. Sound reasonable? Edited December 6, 2010 by peejay4A Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR 2100 Posted December 6, 2010 Report Share Posted December 6, 2010 Its the rear most of the two and yes it is "Tricky" as there is a flat washer and a spring washer as well as the nut to go on. Best done first without the engine in and leave them loose as due to the angles of the studs to the mounting plate you need to wriggle the upper studs in to the engine plate. I recall on my 3A, it was one of those locations where you could get about 1/16th of a turn - turning over the ring spanner for each 1/16th. To add to your problems, on one side, you will need a earth strap (I assume - Stuart?) AlanR Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted December 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2010 Fun times ahead Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bob-menhennett Posted December 6, 2010 Report Share Posted December 6, 2010 A little masking tape on the "topside" mounting threaded portion will help protect the thread ,when the engine swings ( on the engine hoist )into position.Don't go mad otherwise it won't go through the holes and leave it all loose, not bolted up tight, as Stuart suggests.A stout piece of wood to persuade/ lever it into it's final resting place is a useful piece of equipment to have close at hand. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted December 6, 2010 Report Share Posted December 6, 2010 Thanks Stuart. The chassis is as I collected it from Chris H so I'm aware that it will need shimming - I don't think the trailing arms are shimmed either. I'll get round to it at some time. The lower wishbone brackets are the single stud type. The Roger Williams book seems to indicate that the upgrade is simply the drilling of an extra hole then using the TR5/6 brackets. That said, I'm inclined to leave it all as is until it comes down to you next year and go for the full reinforcing kit in that area. Sound reasonable? Probably best idea. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted December 6, 2010 Report Share Posted December 6, 2010 I recall on my 3A, it was one of those locations where you could get about 1/16th of a turn - turning over the ring spanner for each 1/16th. To add to your problems, on one side, you will need a earth strap (I assume - Stuart?) AlanR Earth strap goes from one of the timing chain case bolts to one of the cross tube mounting bolts so as not to complicate matters Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted December 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2010 Phew Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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