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On my chassis (4A) there are two holes each side that the engine mountings can go into. Which should I use - or is it a case of whichever fits best?

 

Over you you O Wise Ones.

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On my chassis (4A) there are two holes each side that the engine mountings can go into.

Which should I use - or is it a case of whichever fits best?

Over you you O Wise Ones.

 

I don't pretend to fit that category, and I'm not so

familiar with 4A deviations, but it sounds like the

TR2/3 style where the mountings were fixed with two

bolts.

 

Is that how it looks? If not, then a photo perhaps?

 

AlanR

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Its the rear most of the two and yes it is "Tricky" as there is a flat washer and a spring washer as well as the nut to go on. Best done first without the engine in and leave them loose as due to the angles of the studs to the mounting plate you need to wriggle the upper studs in to the engine plate. I see from your picture that the inner wishbone mounts have no shims between them and the mounting boxes, check your camber angles as they will be needed, also check if they are the two bolt mounting brackets as well in case they havent been upgraded to later style.

Stuart.

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Thanks Stuart. The chassis is as I collected it from Chris H so I'm aware that it will need shimming - I don't think the trailing arms are shimmed either. I'll get round to it at some time.

 

The lower wishbone brackets are the single stud type. The Roger Williams book seems to indicate that the upgrade is simply the drilling of an extra hole then using the TR5/6 brackets. That said, I'm inclined to leave it all as is until it comes down to you next year and go for the full reinforcing kit in that area. Sound reasonable?

Edited by peejay4A
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Its the rear most of the two and yes it is "Tricky" as there is a flat washer

and a spring washer as well as the nut to go on. Best done first without the

engine in and leave them loose as due to the angles of the studs to the

mounting plate you need to wriggle the upper studs in to the engine plate.

 

I recall on my 3A, it was one of those locations where

you could get about 1/16th of a turn - turning over the

ring spanner for each 1/16th.

 

To add to your problems, on one side, you will need a

earth strap (I assume - Stuart?)

 

AlanR

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A little masking tape on the "topside" mounting threaded portion will help protect the thread ,when the engine swings ( on the engine hoist )into

position.Don't go mad otherwise it won't go through the holes and leave it all loose, not bolted up tight, as Stuart suggests.A stout piece of wood to persuade/ lever it into it's final resting place is a useful piece of equipment to have close at hand.

Bob

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Thanks Stuart. The chassis is as I collected it from Chris H so I'm aware that it will need shimming - I don't think the trailing arms are shimmed either. I'll get round to it at some time.

 

The lower wishbone brackets are the single stud type. The Roger Williams book seems to indicate that the upgrade is simply the drilling of an extra hole then using the TR5/6 brackets. That said, I'm inclined to leave it all as is until it comes down to you next year and go for the full reinforcing kit in that area. Sound reasonable?

 

Probably best idea. ;)

Stuart.

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I recall on my 3A, it was one of those locations where

you could get about 1/16th of a turn - turning over the

ring spanner for each 1/16th.

 

To add to your problems, on one side, you will need a

earth strap (I assume - Stuart?)

 

AlanR

 

Earth strap goes from one of the timing chain case bolts to one of the cross tube mounting bolts so as not to complicate matters ;)

Stuart.

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